Herbflavor,
I hear what you’re saying but there are a couple reasons why I want so much pantry space. 30” was too small so I definitely need more than that to keep the food behind closed doors (although my old pantry was not as deep.) Also, I need 2 doors so I can use a child lock on the pantry (other type locks for single doors do not do the job for us and is one reason why I don’t like the single pantry door on my 3rd pic, although I think it’s the most aesthetically pleasing.) The renderings you posted are lovely and they look nice with that set-up, but my kitchen has a L-shape on the other 2 walls and I anticipate using the counter space on this refrigerator wall very infrequently since it’s so far away from the sink and range. The room is 12 ft wide, so 8 ft of floor space between this counter and the other counter closest to it. I think it will mostly be used for moving things in and out of the refrigerator. Infrequently used countertop appliances will probably go in the base cabinets. I considered using drawers, but I think it would be a waste for my intended purpose. I may get pull-outs. I’m considering drawers for 1 or 2 base cabinets on the other side. I can’t make too many changes because all of the electrical and lighting is done, as is the plumbing and drywall. I could maybe go with a 36” pantry and make the cabinets to the left of the fridge 60”, but like I said, I’d rather have the pantry space than the countertop space, which is why I went larger on the pantry and smaller on the cabinets. This doesn’t really feel symmetrical to me since the cabinets on either side of the fridge are different. I frequently see symmetrical pantries on either side of the fridge and I think it looks fine, although I’d rather have a counter next to the fridge for moving things in and out.

you usually avoid the fridge [frequent destination] on a 3rd wall far from the main area...you're creating a difficult work triangle in other wthords. and besides it appears you have a traffic flow coming right across the fridge/pantry lane. But anyway...looks like this is far along w finalizing everything. Child locks? maybe someone can chime in re your decision about pantry that has experience w locks . I dont. RE the order of positions on wall shown...I might prefer the pantry doors to be on far left..then fridge ...then counter on far right . that would allow the vertical storage areas which will have heavy use it sounds , to be OUT of the passageway as you stand and retrieve / open and close etc.

Actually, the main traffic area is closer to the countertop. There is a doorway next to the pantry but it only leads to the formal dining room, which can also be accessed from the living room. Whereas the countertop area has 2 doorways, plus a door to the basement and a patio door to outside, and the kitchen table, so it’s a major traffic area. Also, I was avoiding putting large, tall cabinets there. This wall is similar to the original, except that the refrigerator was on the far left and I feel that it’s too imposing there, and having the countertop and wall cabinets there instead opens up the space by adding some air. Plus, I’ve moved the refrigerator a little closer to the range and sink, and only a little farther from the kitchen table. The countertop was originally in the middle, with fridge on the left and pantry on the right, so it was like an alcove between pantry and fridge. I made the pantry bigger, the countertop smaller, and I swapped the locations of the fridge and counter. This is a common floor plan for this style of house that was built in the 80’s. It’s pretty functional but I wanted a bigger pantry and to open up the space by having the countertop all the way on the left instead of having the imposing fridge there.

From an aesthetic perspective I don't like to see lots of narrow shaker doors. Too many vertical lines making the kitchen feel busier. And, I love all that I can fit in my 24" door cabinets.

I'd loathe lower doors. Why not drawers here? Few things can be made better by a door rather than drawer.

okay ..so your layout on the wall is determined. Back to the pantry door sizes. the designer has a point about 24 inch wide single doors . questions 1. is 48 inches for pantry space critical 2. could you consider 21 inches ? ....youd get 42 inches total ...I could be satisfied w that size. 3. why the break for top/bottom exactly at shoulder height. seems oddly awkward .....I'd make the lower unit taller . Lastly... I dont think I'd order the threesome door layout for pantry.

the break between upper and lower at a higher position allows full advantageous use of that lower section.

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Thank you Kendrah. Do you happen to have any pics of 24” wide doors? What do you think of 2 side by side pantries with 24” wide doors? I’m actually not using shaker doors, I’ll most likely be using raised panel (I drew this on a computer program with limited door styles.) This kitchen was originally designed at the building supply store but since the cabinets there are discontinued, I’ve gone to a different designer and that is his feedback. The other dilemma is that one brand has 24” wide doors, while the other, with a cabinet color that I prefer, does not have 24” wide doors for pantries or wall cabinets. I was going to go with drawers to the left of the fridge, but since I’ll most likely be using this cabinet for infrequently used small appliances and such, I thought it would be a waste and I’m thinking of pull-outs instead. I’m definitely going with pull-outs for the pantries.

Herbflavor, the break is only in that location due to my laziness of not bothering to adjust the door heights of the pantry cabinets on the computer program that I’m using. I’ll be buying cabinets that have whatever door height the manufacturer uses. I’ve been contemplating 21” wide pantries. It all goes back to whether I want to reduce the pantries which I need, and increase the countertop which I really don’t need. Plus, all the electrical is done, so lighting is done for 48” cabinets and receptacles are done for 48” cabinets, plus refrigerator receptacle location. If I move the cabinets, the electrical that I worked so hard to get perfect will be off, and I’m not redoing the electrical, so it will have to stay where it is.

24" doors are too wide /will warp with time.

However, 48" of pantry isn't all that much.

What I'd do: Forget the cabinets and go with a simple pantry closet. A 36" door will be more substantial /won't cause you trouble. It'll also be significantly cheaper than cabinets.

We have some upper cabinets with 24" doors. It's a little awkward having the door swing out so far, but the access is great. Our pantry is 24" and that doesn't bother me at all, although we only use it for pots, pans, and other kitchenware.

do consider T. Peterson's idea. I have a 32 in door w hinges on side but the opening inside is wider. Theres a ton of stuff inside. You can configure your shelves /rollouts after contracter is done. You can still use the 48 in space but with a style of door at lesser width. .

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These are all good ideas but I’m not sure if I want a 36” wide door swinging into the kitchen. Here is the whole plan. Also, I was thinking of maybe doing a 36” wide double door pantry cabinet, with a 12” wide sliding pantry between the double pantry and the fridge, something like in the link. Thoughts?

https://www.houzz.com/photos/tall-pull-out-pantry-transitional-kitchen-new-york-phvw-vp~76341125

If I did the pull out pantry, it would house a lot of heavy items that could not be opened and spilled easily, such as cans of soup. This would be due to the lack of a child lock on this cabinet. I’m not sure what the weight limit is on such a cabinet.

but I’m not sure if I want a 36” wide door swinging into the kitchen.

Consider two 20" doors swinging into the kitchen.

36 plus 12 does make sense. do you have a budget for this 48 in wide space. these vertical storage units are one of the more expensive types of cabinetry. since you will have to spend some amount , be sure and think over what exactly works the best for you folks. Probably a 32 in hinged regular door [not 36] with shelving inside [however you want] ends up cheaper ...if it makes a difference to you.

I do think the step-in pantry closet idea is probably your best bet to use all the space and not kill your budget on pull-outs, with a single 28" door or two smaller doors that meet in the middle.

FWIW, I had a reach-in shallow pantry that was a little wider than this which I looooved. I did three doors across, short ones on the bottom and tall doors on top, which was a great configuration for easy viewing of all the most used stuff (bulk buys were stored in the shorter lower cabs). I never took a great picture of it, sadly, but in case this is helpful, here you go. It was like a wide adjustable bookshelf inside - no separating compartments vertically apart from the face frame when you opened the doors, which was also great.

Where does the door to the right of the kitchen go?

Here's a quick sketch elevation for your consideration that shows a few minor adjustments to your original cabinet layout, and which hopefully respects the electrical and other elements of the kitchen that don't need to change.

The main idea is to reduce the door widths as was suggested, but to maintain as much pantry as possible. Three doors on the right which can be tall pull-out pantry style cabinets about 18" wide each. Then the 36" fridge (french door style will give similar door widths of 18"), then a single 36" +/- base cabinet on the left with 18"+/- drawers, counter above with smaller uppers to match across the top.

Secondary ideas are to use dark cabinets to help the black fridge feel integrated, and to add some glass doors on the uppers to lighten the look and add some sparkle. An alternative option for colors/materials is to use dark cabinets on the tall pantry cabinets up to the ceiling and above the fridge to integrate the fridge, but then to use the natural wood on everything to the left of the fridge.

Hope this is helpful. Feel free to reach out if you'd like further input.

I have a 36" wide pantry with two 18" doors - I think it's a good size. I only have one door that is 21" - it is wide - I can't imagine having 24" wide pantry doors (seems like they would look odd being that wide).

I don't understand the need to put a child lock on your pantry. I raised my two daughters without ever using child locks (they didn't open cabinet doors) + I watch my grandson (from 8 weeks - he's now 4) and he doesn't get into any of my kitchen/powder cabinets. My granddaughter is 15 months old - and she doesn't open cabinets doors either. I'd rather teach them not to open the door vs. having child locks (and I didn't really have to teach them either). If you want to add a lock for your sink cabinet (or a bathroom cabinet), that makes sense (if needed).

All great ideas. Thank you everybody.

Julie S, I love your pantry!

StudioMalo, your ideas are where I’ve been heading in my mind the last couple of days and I really love your drawing! I’m thinking a 36” double pantry plus an 18” single pantry. Do you think the single should go on the right as you’ve drawn it? I’m leaning towards regular pantries with roll-out trays because I’m worried that the expensive pull-out pantry will eventually break. Right now I have a 3” spacer to the right of the pantries and I think I can easily reduce that to 1.5” or maybe 1” (I’m not sure.) To the left of the fridge, I was thinking of a 42” base cabinet which will give me a large open storage area for lesser-used countertop appliances. The only problem is that I’m not sure what to do for the uppers. The largest doors on uppers that I saw while shopping were 18” and I’m worried that 21” doors will be too big. I was also considering glass doors here but I’m not sure how neat I can keep it. I’m trying to think about what I might keep in there and if I can manage glass. I also have an upper above the dishwasher that is 42” wide and I’m second guessing those 21” doors but I’m at a loss as to what to do about it!

I'm glad my drawing was helpful. I think you're on the right track. I would lean toward having all the pantry units together on the right of the fridge. If you can live with 36" cabinets and counter to the left, then the doors will work at the 18" size. If you need more base cabinet and counter there, then you'll have to explore the wider doors. I don't know the answer to your concern about the 21" doors, but a good cabinet rep should be able to help you solve that.