The Electrolux ELFW7637AW is one of three Electrolux front-load washers that earned a recommended rating from CR, is the least expensive, and its door can be reversed (a rarity). Pair with the ELFE7637AW dryer and get a discount from Home Depot.

There is no indication that the door of the Samsung WF90F53ADY can be reversed.

I have the same situation with reverse washer/dryer hook ups in our second home. I purchased the electrolux pair mentioned by wdccruise 2 years ago. No complaints thus far although it does get light use. There are a couple of features that it lacks that I would find useful. You can’t turn the drum light on manually when a cycle is running. It does not have a wifi/app to let you know when cycles are done. The cycle end signal if very faint and the volume cannot be adjusted. Since my set is in a basement I would find an app interface useful.

I do remember looking at Electrolux when I first encountered this problem. I would have gone with that option except I leave the washing machine door open slightly after use and the E'lux door swung wide open - wouldn't stay just a bit open. That may no longer be the case. I couldn't have it wide open because I have one of those hallway type laundry rooms between the garage and the rest of the house.

There are magnetic door props you can buy that solve the problem of the washer door swinging too wide open.

I will take a look at the Electrolux, but isn’t it an oddball brand for laundry appliances that may be an issue for getting parts and service when it just a few years out of warranty?

I wouldn’t consider Electrolux an oddball company. Google the company and look at its history. Its a Swedish company founded in 1919. They bought Frigidaire in 1986.. Personally I am not any more concerned with parts from Electrolux than any other brand. Fortunately I have had great luck for the last 45+ years with laundry appliances. The only parts I have had to buy are dryer heater coils and a detergent dispenser cup. I am on my thrid set of W/D in my primary home, and my current set is on year 17 (knock on wood).

I drape a towel over my washer door to keep it ajar.

Ok. Maybe this is the one.

I found they have built in a fix for keeping the door open on newer models.

@Jaxo

I'm curious about what you have seen that gave the impression of Electrolux being "an oddball brand for laundry appliances."

Adding to what Kim G said, Electrolux (including its Frigidaire subsidiary) has a market share that puts it in the top 5 brands of laundry appliances sold in the North American market. It also is a major player elsewhere.

As for parts availability, I have an 18-y.o. Frigidaire FL washer. When my aging machine recently needed a new door striker/latch. I found the OEM replacement part available and in-stock at all of the major appliance parts warehouses. Scanning through the parts lists, it seemed that almost every part for the machine is still available. Not bad for a machine that has been out of production for a decade and a half, eh?

Hence my curiousity about E'lux seeming to be an "oddball brand."

ETA: seems I was posting as you were, so maybe we've assuaged your concern?

@jwvideo I just have seen Electrolux mire often for other types of appliances like ranges and vacuum cleaners.

I was all set to start looking for a place to buy the Electrolux washer dryer pair until I found that the drain filter isn’t set up to be easily cleaned by the homeowner like other brands.

I would need to schedule a service appointment to do all this which adds both to ongoing costs plus sheer inconvenience.

You make a good point about the lack of a filter door. That was another feature I felt it lacked. Due to our light use I figured I’d deal with a filter issue when it arose likely several years down the road. I havent used it enough yet in 2+ years to trigger the clean machine reminder. You might look at GE. I think you have to step up to their 5 cu ft models to ger an on board water heater. My girlfriend bought one 3 years ago and hates it becuase she doesn’t think it uses enough water so I would not put much stake in that. She has not had any service issues. It is a larger footprint which is why I could not consider it as it would likely not have easily fit through the laundry room door. Its not as well reviewed as the Electrolux, but it is more feature rich. Very good wifi/app interface.

GE may be the way to go instead. They have reversible doors on multiple front load washer models and they don’t bury the washer filter in a hard to access spot like Electrolux does.

https://www.geappliances.com/ge/washer/front-load-laundry.htm

So, if I can’t find any GE that fits all requirements, I will need to go with a top load washer that can handle queen comforters effectively without being overloaded and only reverse the dryer door swing.

"I was all set to start looking for a place to buy the Electrolux washer dryer pair until I found that the drain filter isn’t set up to be easily cleaned by the homeowner like other brands."

There is no mention of a "drain filter" -- or any filter -- in the Electrolux ELFW7637AW user manual.

While no GE washer earned a recommended rating from CR, several including the well-priced GFW550SSNWW did pretty well as did the matching GFD55ESSNWW dryer.

I have a Maytag top loader with no agitator that is very efficient with water and spins my clothes very well. I'm always amazed at how dry they are when the load is finished washing. It's a huge tub capacity and I can wash an 8x10 washable rug in it. It has a deep fill option for larger loads. I replaced it when my other Maytag quit after 11 years. It's very tall though and I have to stand on tiptoe to empty it. I'm 5'6".

I found this in an appliance repair blog. If you are still interested in the Electrolux you might want to reach to them and ask them about the need to clean the filter and validate the LuxCare pump mentioned below.

For this specific model, the manufacturer has moved away from the traditional front-access door found in many other brands. The drain pump is located at the bottom front of the machine, but there is no external access door on the front panel.

The Maintenance Reality

To answer your question directly: No, you cannot access the filter from the front without a significant teardown.

Access Method: To reach the pump filter, you typically need to remove the entire front bellows (door seal) and the front panel of the machine.

Self-Cleaning Design: This "LuxCare" pump system is designed to be internally self-cleaning. It aims to wash debris out through the drain hose rather than trapping it in a manual-access filter.

The Back Panel Myth: There is no need to remove the back panel to locate it, but since there is no front "coin trap" door, it is not considered a consumer-serviceable part for routine cleaning.

@wdccruise The filter wouldn’t mentioned in the user manual because it is too difficult to access for most homeowners to mess with.

If it clogs enough to become a problem, the machine will throw errors and you will need to schedule and pay for a service visit.

I have no idea why you would consider necessary to ever access this filter.

It would be for the same reason, anyone ever accesses the filter in every other brand of front load washer and also the compact Electrolux washer.

Lint builds up over time, plus occasionally, a foreign object left in a pocket or something like a baby sock gets sucked through when the washer drains. The filter blocks the object from progressing further and causing damage to other parts.

If you have easy access to it from the front, the owner can clean it out on the spot rather paying $300 and waiting 2 weeks for a technician to disassemble the washer and clean it for you.

@kim G I just found the page where you copied that info.

I wonder where they got their info? If this is an advantage and true, I would think Electrolux would advertise it as a feature that the filters in their washers never need cleaning.

Filter is a misnomer IMO. It's more accurately a pump protector.

I disassembled and refurbed an early-model Whirlpool Duet years ago. The pump protector was effectively clogged with an amazing array of debris ... candy wrappers, toothpicks, shotgun pellets, a camera memory card, tampon applicator, hair pins, paper clips, coins, etc. with bunches of lint caught in it, all with a lovely coating of black mold. Truly gnasty.

@jaxo - That is why I would try to contact Electrolux and ask about filter cleaning. You would want to talk to/communicate with someone that is knowledgeable like a service department. I might also speak with a repair shop that is certified for electrolux repairs to see what they have experienced. I did not see filter complaints in the reviews that I read as I did have the same question when researching machines. Since this was really my only option for a reverse door washer I went ahead and purchased since I knew it would be lightly used. I cleaned my Samsung filter today in my primary residence. It had been 16 months since I last cleaned it (we do travel quite a bit). There was a tiny little bit of lint in the filter and that was it.

"It would be for the same reason, anyone ever accesses the filter..."

It's apparently self-cleaning. Sheesh.

@jaxo. I agree with your concerns about not being able to readily access the filter/screen that is there to protect the pump. However, it should be noted that many of Electrolux’s competitors have done the same thing. Many, if not most whirlpool and Maytag front-load washers have a similarly frustrating lack of access to the same area. Many of the front load washers used to have a lower bottom panel that could be removed to provide much more convenient access to these areas, but they did away with it and I suspect it was (no surprise ) 😦 to reduce cost. I believe there is an LG model and one newer whirlpool model that have re-introduced
an access door on the front, but this feature is a lot less common than they used to be. Interestingly, many of the compact frontload washers, still have the access doors although it’s not clear to me why they largely still have them.

And, it really is a shame because Electrolux washers are highly rated for their cleaning ability, and I suspect it may have something to do with the fact that many of their mid to high end models have a recirculation pump that pulls water from the bottom of the basin and pours it over the clothes, providing better saturation, even with the lower water levels that many washers now use.

Right now, there is still another issue.

My existing front loaders are only 29” deep, but it looks like all the new ones are 32-34” deep plus whatever extra clearance they need to connect to the dryer vent.

Maybe, if the dryer vent opening lined up perfectly with the dryer exhaust hole and the dryer could be pushed back to connect with a very short and straight duct, it might work, but if there needs to be a sideways run of ducting to line up the connection to the dryer, that extra few inches of clearance required behind the dryer would make it protrude out too far and block opening a door.

I can’t find any shorter depth front loaders with reversible doors on the washer.

Depth is definitely an issue with the newer models as they continue to increase the tub capacity. I have a 4” built up platform for my W/D that is 34” deep that has a drain. LG makes a 4.5 cu ft front loader (5500) that is just over 30” deep that I think will work. Since my current pair is likely on borrowed time - I try to keep up with the current models and what I would want to replace them with. Of course LG doors are not reversible on the washer.

Needs to be reversible to be an improvement over the existing setup. Otherwise, the only option will be top loaders.

I assume top loaders require less depth and I will have more options.

My existing front loader is 4.0 cubic feet and seems just large enough to wash queen comforters. Anything smaller will likely be too small, but all the new reversible door front loaders seem to be huge and deep.

Speed Queen’s front load sets are 27 -3/4 inches deep.

https://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/SPWADREWN7011.html

I was just looking at that Speed Queen FF7 online. Disappointing to see that the capacity is only 3.5 cubic feet. So, a downgrade from my already smallish 4.0 sized washer.

What may make it still not work even if 3.5 can work for washing queen comforters is the space needed for the matching gas dryer. It‘s 28 inches deep, but the installation manual is saying add an additional 6 inches of depth if it will be vented to the rear. The vent opening is on the rear wall. So, 34 inches total is just over the available space before it will block opening the door.

It could work if the dryer venting could be more compact.

I have the dyer on left and washer on right set up now. It was no problem befor because I had a front load Electrolux washer where the door was reversed, But I kicked that washer to the curb when it was only a few years old. The clothes developed biostink. And no it was not coming from the washer being moldy or gunked up. It was in the actual clothing. The washer smelled good. It was very clean. We even took the whole thing apart and looked at eveything, I actually went and smelled everything. No stink. It was once the washer cycle started and the clothing got wet you would smell it. It drove me absolutely bonkers. I ended up getting an LG and just dealing with the door being in the way. It really hasnt been a big deal for me. No more nasty biostink in the clothing. i dont think the electrolux rinsed the clothes good enough or something. How can a 2 hour wash cycle still end up with clothng with biostink.

Well, that sure does complicate things. For what it’s worth, I have one and the 3.5 ft.³ does allow me to get a queen size comforter, with enough room for washing. But the extra 4 inches regarding the gas dryer certainly does make this option questionable.

Ours is electric and so it’s not an issue

They say 6 inches. If it could be done with only a 4 inch space for venting behind it, it could work.

@HU-781761989 Electric still needs a dryer vent behind it.

4” depth behind the washer and dryer for the vent pipe can be tight if the vent pipe attaches to the back of the dryer and then needs to make a 90-degree turn to then run to the outside wall. Very easy for the pipe to crimp or pull away from the dryer vent attachment as you push it in.

That’s what I ran into with the Samsung front load set up per below. The Samsung dryer also was a bit deeper than the mfr specs depth due to the dryer connection box on the back which is an inch or so added depth. Totally messed with my below-counter cabinet doors closing properly over the dryer.

I went to measure the depth of the space for my Samsung it is 35" including the door if that helps.

@HU-16168550092: " Speed Queen’s front load sets are 27 -3/4 inches deep."

FWIW, that's actually only for the FF7 machines' main "cabinet" without accounting for the panel with door assembly on the front and hose connections on the back. The spec has confused a lot of people. Read down a couple of lines in SQ's specs chart and there's now a spec listing 31 3/8" as the actual depth with the door and hose connections included. https://speedqueen.com/products/front-load-washers/ff7011wn/

The only full-sized front-loading sets that might fit are the Electrolux. The dryer dimensions say they are 32 inches and you only need an additional 3/4 inch of space behind it to install to allow for hose required for steaming.

If it really can install in only 32 and 3/4 space (or exactly 32 inches without the steam hose) it will fit with about an inch to spare, but I am skeptical.

Apparently, it needs very little clearance behind it because it has a cutout on the lower half that indents in.

However, will this still work when mounted on top of a pedestal? How would the dryer exhaust tubing get around the pedestal to the wall behind it the exhaust tube inlet is not exactly aligned vertically or horizontally? With the dryer on a pedestal, it will be both higher and off to the side by at least foot than the dryer vent connection.

Would a periscope duct connection work without needing to add more rear clearance beyond their stated 3/4 inch?

If I can't make the Electrolux work and I want to stay with front loaders, then that only leaves 24-inch European compact washer dryers.

I would go with a matching, ventless heat pump dryer in that case. Without needing to consider connecting to dryer vents, I would be able to install them either way and not be limited to models with reversible doors.

Does anyone have experience with Bosch vs Asko washers and their heat pump dryers and how well they can wash and dry a queen-sized comforter?

Does anyone see any reason why the Electrolux 500-700 series dryer would not fit? If it protrudes more than 33 inches from the wall, it will interfere with a door opening that will be right next to where the new dryer would be installed.

"Does anyone see any reason why the Electrolux 500-700 series dryer would not fit?"

I don't know what the "Electrolux 500-700 series" is but the the ELFE7637AW dryer would only fit if all the duct tubing between the connector on back of the dryer and the connector on the wall fit inside the wall's cutout and you could slide the dryer towards the wall with the tubing connected.

There are magnetic vent couplings (example). Many have foil duct which one is not supposed to usewith a dryer.

I don't understand what you are saying. The diagrams say they can be pushed back touching the wall unless you connect the steam cycle waterline for the dryer that adds an extra 3/4 of an inch.

From what I can see, even when the back of the dryer is touching the wall, the indent at the lower section of the dryer still provides space for the dryer vent tubing.

Why would the tubing not be able to connect to the dryer vent duct connection based on the photos I posted?

Back to the original issue, it is probably costly to move the washer’s plumbing, but how hard is it to move the dryer duct hole in the wall? What is behind it?

What is the measured distance from the sidewall to the centerline of the duct connection up in the cut-out? Flexduct imparts resistance to airflow unless it is stretched fully to minimize drag imparted by the spring coil. Rigid ducting is the best for eliminating airflow resistance.

Dryers are designed to operate with zero/minimal airflow resistance on the exhaust ducting. Manufacturer specifications for maximum exhaust duct length with allowance for number of bends/turns takes into consideration operational factors such as impact on drying time and overheat cycling of the element or gas burner on the high-limit protector due to reduced airflow. That is a crucial factor which is consistently overlooked or disregarded during home construction/design regard to the exhaust path layout.

The wall port for my dryer exhaust, which is straight through an exterior wall, was placed too close to a corner. I can't shove the dryer through the sidewall to align it directly with the port, thus the dryer must be placed at an angle. I previously used a short piece of flexduct but it still must be long enough for working room to make the connections, and then compression of it when the dryer is positioned imparted airflow resistance. I recently changed it to a 90° adjustable solid-flue elbow. The dryer must still be at an angle but the airflow resistance is eliminated. Precise positioning and jostling of the dryer was needed to make the connection but it was worth the effort. The dryer runs quieter with less "whoosh" sound of the airflow, and drying time is reduced by several minutes.

Dryer effectively square to the rear wall, ducting severely obstructed.

Dryer at an angle to reduce obstruction but still drag on the airflow caused by the flexduct.

Solid-flue adjustable elbow, dryer still at an angle to the wall but much-reduced airflow drag.

I won’t be able to angle the dryer.

To fit without blocking the door opening, the dryer must be pushed up to nearly touching the wall.

I was hoping that the combination of the indentation at the bottom of the dryer and the recessed location where the dryer exhaust connects to the wall would provide space for the vent tubing.

@dadoes I am unable to fit between the washer and dryer to get behind them without disconnecting the dryer and moving it to another room.

I was able to move the washer forward, climb on top and reach down with my phone to get some closer photos. I tried reaching over with meauring tape and it looked like around 14 inches from the wall to the center line of the cutout. The phone app was saying 13.5 inches, but I was at a weird angle and I couldn't hold the phone steady enough.

After getting the phone closer, it looks like the vent is going upwards. Does this complicate it or make it easier?

Does anyone know what the purpose of this thing and what it's called?

If the ducting is going up vertically, why wouldn't the dryer vent hosing be connected directly and be pointed straight up instead of connecting horizontally?

Appears to be this type of adapter and probably is a appreciable airflow restriction considering how acute is the transition to vertical.

Thanks. Then I probably would want to get rid of that when installing a new, vented dryer. I don’t understand why that was done like that in the first place.

Is there any better solution that would fit the Electrolux dryer within these space constraints?

I can’t get in there to get a really close look at it, but it kind of looks like it is embedded into the drywall instead of sitting on the surface.

I have the same situation, with the washer on the right. I just put my clothes from the washer into my laundry basket, then put them in the dryer. I know, an extra step…but only a minute!

My washer is on the right, dryer at the left of it. My dryer is a toploader so on which side it's positioned is of no consequence to loading. :-)

"Does anyone know what the purpose of this thing and what it's called?"

It's Elbow 49902 and bent like that to keep it shallow.

"Exhaust duct [replacement] elbow 4396005 allows the exhaust vent pipe to turn [90 degrees] without kinking the pipe."