Try this:

People think that WD-40 is the same type of penetrating oil as this - however, it's not.

After using this, flush with brake cleaner and switch to a graphite or silicone lubricant.

Hopefully, it will work for you.

You may have to tap on the lock with a hammer if it doesn't work by itself.

Getting this lock open cpould be more trouble than it's worth. Snap shackle with bolt cutter and buy a new lock.

Thank you both, for your tips! I actually don't have any of those things, not blaster, nor brake cleaner, nor bolt cutter. I was hoping for an All-In-One, though I guess that would be a bolt-cutter. I'll have to decide.

Also, which graphite do you use for padlocks? Hillman or Blaster or WD40-DryLube ?

Hi, Just an idea,hold the lock in your hand and tap it with a hammer , might break it lose.

Good Luck Woodbutcher

Absolutely the best product for this problem is Kroil Original Penetrant. If it doesn't work, cut off the lock with a bolt cutter.

OK guys, here's an update, plus followup Q:

Guess what - a guy in the neighborhood was able to unlock it without using any substances at all. Rather he twiddled a bit, and voila.

As per both my photo's below, the padlock containing the key inside was the stuck-padlock. And interestingly the stuck-padlock had much less rust, as you can see

I've had these many years, and since Brinks is good quality, I'm loathe to trash them. Now that you see the pics, what would you do next, based on the pics? The guy who helped me (and his buddy) both recommended WD40 as a next step, despite that i told them graphite is recommended. They said you can dry it, and then use WD40.

On the other hand, y'all seem to recommend dry graphite. But since WD40 had been used on these locks periodically in the past, would it be risky to mix dry-graphite into the mix? (At risk that combining WD40+graphite might turn into gunk?

Would you just buy new locks as well as graphite? If so, which padlocks, and which graphite?

Groan

Your "pics" don't tell us much - neither do your words like "twiddled" and "stuck". How was the lock "stuck" - eg.?

• the key wouldn't go into the keyway
• the key would go in but not turn
• the key turned but the lock didn't open

I wouldn't just add graphite at this point. And I think dani_m08 gave some good advice above. For graphite "brands" - never heard of Hillman - and do Blaster and WD-40 actually sell graphite? To me graphite is graphite - it's like which brand of water is best...

We purchased graphite for our door locks - as @dennisgli has commented, I think that the brand doesn't really matter - it just needs to be actual graphite.

Make sure that you clean them first as suggested in my first post + let them dry out before adding graphite.

" For graphite "brands" - never heard of Hillman - and do Blaster and WD-40 actually sell graphite? To me graphite is graphite - it's like which brand of water is best "

NO, Blaster, WD-40 or any of those companies do not sell or produce graphite. Graphite is a powder and comes in a small toothpaste like tube. WD-40 just attracts dirt and dust, just like penetrating oil. Thats why they recommend graphite as it is a dry powder that will attract anything. Brand doesn't matter, as noted above graphite it graphite............................

Yes, penetrating oil will hold some dust and dirt. This lock isn't traveling daily through a dust storm or following a truck up and down a dirt road. But don't bother with WD40. It's only meant to displace some moisture. Kroll is good but the best penetrant is 50/50 ATF and Acetone homemade. Search for the testing.

I read y'all, and first of all, the key hadn't been turning, but somehow that guy got it to turn by fiddling with the lock. I don't have such a photographic memory to recall precisely what he did.

And to dan1888:

Lets say like me, you're not the type to fool with Acetone+ATF NOR own any of those things.

Not Kroil, nor blaster, nor graphite (nor ATF nor Acetone).

Would you:

1. Buy a penetrant and a graphite?
2. Buy a set of locks?

IF #1 - i guess you'd get Kroil and any old graphite?

IF #2 - which padlocks would you recommend?

P.S. Klem, i see two people liked your groan. So maybe groan even louder?

"Why not just buy new Brinks padlocks since you seem to already think that they are good quality? "

Great suggestion but the questions remain for how many to buy and where to buy them.

OK.

P.S. Klem does it bother you so very much if someone is curious as to what choices others would make if in the same situation? Didn't you yourself learn any tips from family members and mentors, or were you always self-taught?

Acetone is at any hardware and HD and Lowes. Dextron ATF is at any auto parts and Walmart. Pour half the ATF into another quart empty oil container Fill one or both woth acetone. Now you have a lifetime supply of the best penetrating fluid available. Always shake it up before you use it. Give it some time to work. Your lock sounds like a worn key that needs jiggling. Not something corroded. You can use a Q-tip to applt this.

Thanks i appreciate the info, though I wound up buying a 2-pack of brass padlocks (ACE) with 7/8" shackles. Quality appears at least the same as my rusty Brinks. Approx. $24 w/tax. It cost approx. 4X as much as the approx. 15-year-old Brinks (especially because years ago, Walmart sold the Brinks as a 4-pack compared to this 2-pack-Ace).