Did your 2025 plant produce flowers in 2025?

Can you confirm photo #1 a fraction below dead center does not show evidence of midge?

@rifis (zone 6b-7a NJ)

2024 rose produced blooms in 2025 but not as much as this year. 2025 rose produced zero blooms so far.

Here is another photo.

I have never had experience with rose midge but there are signs of bud destruction.

What do you think?

The sickly bush may have a bad graft union. It can happen. If you planted the bush with the graft deep, at least 4" below soil level (not counting mulch), the top graft may send out roots from above the graft union, and restore the vigor of your Dee-Lish.

I have three, all on their own roots, not grafted. I am happy with them.

Do you have Rose Midge Fly in your area? On a wild hunch, your Dee-Lish could be infested with the larvae of this nastiest of nasty insects as Rifis pointed out. I battled Rose Midge Fly for ~35 yrs! Last year, 2025, and so far this year, RMF has completely disappeared from my garden. I did nothing special to eradicate it. I did spray with Imidacloprid on a pretty tight schedule for many, many years....just controlling them, not eliminating them. Now, miracle of miracles, they are gone. God works in mysterious ways!

Moses.

Omar,

BTW, my Dee-Lish were tiny, own root starts. They matured slowly for me.

Moses.

@Moses, Pitt PA, cold W & hot-humid S, z6 I have no experience with rose midge, as I have never had an infestation, but I reviewed some of the photos and they look identical to the buds on my Dee-Lish and another larger rose. I have heard that it is very difficult to detect the adult fly.

Could you please share what you have done to get rid of rose midge on your roses?

I applied systemic BioAdvanced 3-1 granulas.

Omar,

I've never, seen an adult rose Midge Fly in real life, only in photos. Their larvae, maggots, I've seen with my eyes, live and wiggling, and the damage they do is very plain to see. Most rose gardeners in the North East USA are plagued with them. If not controlled, they will destroy every growing tip destined to be a flower so none ever forms, or if discovered by egg bearing females after growing stems are more advanced, flowers do not form well.

Spraying with an insecticide containing imidacloprid, every 10 days to 2 weeks is the treatment, done from spring to fall. What a drudge! I bought a battery powered sprayer, the Scotts model, could be better designed, but it makes a nasty chore more endurable.

I haven't had to spray specifically for Rose Midge Fly....what a relief.....especially for an aging gent. However, it could easily rear its ugly head up at any time. I'm prepared!

Moses.

Omar,

I've always done foliar spraying with the concentrated liquid equivalent of your BioAdvanced granules. I just don't trust the granules to work as effectively as a foliar spray. One year a ways back, I did a 12 month soil drench that was not effective. I didn't apply it right, or the product was defective.

When spraying you only need to concentrate the insecticide spray itself to growing tips, and only to those growing tips that have not progressed to the green bud stage where the green flower buds have reached the size of a large garden pea. My experience showed me that growing tips that have reached green bud size equal to a large garden pea, or larger, are passed over by the female egg laden Rose Midge Flies. So, actually, very little insecticide is needed to protect all your roses. The entire bush is not sprayed, only the vulnerable parts.

Moses.

@Moseos, Pitt PA, cold W & hot-humid S, z6 Do you do soil drench or only foilar spray with imidacloprid?

I also have battery powered sprayer for BS and I can add imidacloprid to the mix.

@Moses, Pitt PA, cold W & hot-humid S, z6

I was able to identify small white maggots inside some buds on three roses that are close to each other.

I started spraying imidacloprid and placed a fabric barrier under each of these roses. I hope I can eradicate this ugly infestation by fall.

Thank you for the tip.

Well, Omar, you are doing all that you can to combat the Rose Midge Fly. The fabric barrier may be ineffective. Some maggots will not drop to the ground to pupate. Some will spin their cocoons* where they are in the damaged growing tip, and emerge as adult flies there. Also, Midge Fly females from other infested roses near you can fly into your garden and lay their eggs....the ground barrier means nothing to them.

I believe that as winter approaches the instinct is to drop to the ground to gain some protection from the cold, but not necessary when it is warm.

What to do with damaged tipped growth, especially on strong laterials grown as well as thick basal growths that are not going to bloom? Treat them as if they bloomed and presently need dead heading. Follow the dead heading rules as closely as possible.

Make your dead heading cuts ~3/8" above a node that has a strong 5 leaflet leaf there. If the stem there is very thin and will not support a heavy flower, go down a node or two further on the stem, to where it is thicker (at least as thick as pencil on hybrid teas, thinner on floribundas, whenever possible.....which rule is often impossible to abide by!).

Keep us posted, Omar. You can grow incredibly beautiful roses in Rose Midge Country....it just takes more work.

Moses.

*cocoons - in order to pupate, once they have gained maximum maggot size, the maggots spin a cocoon around themselves, anchoring the first silk threads so that the cocoon does not dislodge. They're like Silk Worm Moths in this way!

Omar,

When you spray, remember to concentrate your attention to the healthy growing tips which have not developed green flower buds that have reached the size of large garden peas (fresh/canned/frozen, soft edible ones, not dried peas). They are primary targets of female Rose Midge Flies. They will find them no matter where on the bush they are. If you miss any vulnerable growing tips while you are spraying, you can almost be certain that they will be 'Midged' before your next schedscheduled spray session. So, be extra observant. New basal growth emerging from ground level from the roses crowned are particularly vulnersble. They are often hard to see being obscured by the bush's foliage, and grow so quickly that they may loose their systemic insecticide protection for this reason.

Although Imidacloprid is systemic, it is translaminar when sprayed. It moves through the leaves surface to enter the under-leaf cells, protedting the under sides of leaves whosecsurfacescwerecsprayed, as well as stems they are attached to I does not translocate to surfaces that have not been sprayed. This means that as a growing tip extends its growth behind where it was sprayed the last time, the new extension of growth, does not have adequate protection until it is sprayed. Hence the 10 day to 2 week schedule of spraying. Spraying starts in spring when new growth begins, and concludes after the first killing frost, usually in October.

Once the growing tip has matured to the green bud being the size of a large green garden pea, midge bliss will generally not lay their eggs on them. They are too tough for the maggots to chew, and the growing tip is very likely not giving off as strong a female attracting scent trail as it did earlier in its development.

Moses.

(Please pardon the strange errors. Our fellow Roses Forum member, Vaporvac, and some others, and I have computers that are not 100% compatible with the Houzz programmers' concept of operating a functioning systems.)

You are seeing dead maggots? That is great. You are gaining ground. Congratulations!

In my garden during the year after year battle wiith the midge, no rose was spared, however roses that are not prone to have thick, succulent new growth, were infested less. I can remember my Marie Pavie bushes experiencing minimal Rose Midge Fly Damage because the Rose Midge Fly females instinctively targeted the more robust growth of the larger flowered roses in my garden.

Keep us posted on your progress.

This is why I don't like granules:

You may find that the granules, which depend upon regular watering to be effective, may kick in and start working very well at first, and slack off toward the end of the duration of the time indicated on the label. The granules do not release the insecticide at the same rate even if watering is constant. Heavy release at the beginning, and less through the process of time. Then too, the bush is not growing at the same rate, making more demands on insecticide when in a growth spurt, and less when resting.

Remember that with the granules, which must dissolve in the soil in order to be taken up by the roses, your entire soil is a dead zone. Imidacloprid takes all prisoners. I find that spraying only roses growing tips, and only those that are presently vulnerable, the currently vulnerable ones will lose their vulnerability once they progress in growth to the green flower bud/garden pea size.....very little insecticide is really used per spray session. Of course if you are concurrently spraying a fungicide in the spray, you must spray the entire bush.....still, the soil has only a mild infusion from the spray.

You may find that the granules, which depend upon regular watering to be effective, may kick in and start working. Also, the granules do not releasecatvthe same rate even if watering is cknemember that with the granules, which must dissolve in the soil in order to be taken up by the roses, your entire soil is a dead zone. Imidacloprid takes all prisoners. I find that spraying only roses growing tips, and only those that are presently vulnerable, the currently vulnerable ones will lose their vulnerability once they progress in growth to the green flower bud/garden pea size.....very little insecticide is really used per spray session. Of course if you are concurrently spraying a fungicide in the spray, you must spray the entire

emember that with the granules, which must dissolve in the soil in order to be taken up by the roses, your entire soil is a dead zone. Imidacloprid takes all prisoners. I find that spraying only roses growing tips, and only those that are presently vulnerable, the currently vulnerable ones will lose their vulnerability once they progress in growth to the green flower bud/garden pea size.....very little insecticide is really used per spray session. Of course if you are concurrently spraying a fungicide in the spray, you must spray the entire bush.....still, the soil has only a mild infusion from the spray.emember that with the granules, which must dissolve in the soil in order to be taken up by the roses, your entire soil is a dead zone. Imidacloprid takes all prisoners. I find that spraying only roses growing tips, and only those that are presently vulnerable, the currently vulnerable ones will lose their vulnerability once they progress in growth to the green flower bud/garden pea size.....very little insecticide is really used per spray session. Of course if you are concurrently spraying a fungicide in the spray, you must spray the entire bush.....still, the soil has only a mild infusion from the spray.

Moses.

(Houzz at it again!)

@Moses, Pitt PA, cold W & hot-humid S, z6 I also used a liquid imidacloprid soil drench, which may act faster than the granular formulation. I am also spraying imidacloprid and Cyonara 9.7. I may be overdoing it, but I plan to back off in 2-3 weeks if I start seeing healthy buds again.

@Moses, Pitt PA, cold W & hot-humid S, z6

Update: I don't see any new infections in the treated roses, and I am seeing healthy tips. The bad news is that the three roses on the other side of the house got infected. I thought rose midge flies didn't fly that far, but apparently, they do. I am now treating all of my roses, whether they show signs of infection or not. I added a new treatment, Dinotefuran. It is expensive, but I am willing to do whatever it takes to get rid of these nasty bugs.

Omar,

That's a wise decision to use dinotefuran. It is a third generation systemic neonicotinoid insecticide that moves through the rose, even to new growth made after spraying. Imidacloprid does not. It does not protect new growth. Also, there are reports that Imidacloprid is becoming less effective as insects develop resistance to its lethal effects. Also, pollinators are supposedly harmed more with Imidacloprid than with Dinotefuran. I suspect that as a foliar spray, Imidacloprid will become obsolete in time, although it continues to be effective as a soil drench which protects all plant parts, even new growth made after the drench is applied. Although, as you may recall me rerporting, in my case a short number of years ago, I was not successful with my Imidacloprid soil drench. User error (me), could be the blame.

You've been doing your research. Good success to you is my prayer.

Moses.

Omar,

Guess who just purchased Cyonara 9.7? I intend to do an every 8 week spray starting ASAP, to control an as yet unidentified caterpillar, possibly the Cabbage butterfly caterpillar, which is attacking the foliage surrounding new, small, green flower buds. It is not the Saw Fly, at least the damage is very different. The caterpillar does not harm the developing bud, but puts tiny holes in the leaves when just hatched, and proceeds to skeletonize the young foliage just around it as it grows. It is very small, green and needs to be addressed. Just about all new growth that is producing buds is hit.

At least the Rose Midge Fly still is absent, of which I am overwhelmed with joy. I kept this caterpillar at bay over the years as I routinely sprayed for RMF. Now, with the need to spray for RMF discontinued, the green caterpillar advanced.

Do we win in the end, Omar? Yes and No. The natural environment can be a brutal foe. Any wins are reason to rejoice.

Moses.

Omar,

Your spraying schedule, of course, need not be every 10 days to two weeks anymore. Because of your use of the newer pyrethroid (stomach poison),and nicotinoid (nervous system-paralysis), insecticides, according th what I have read, the schedule can be extended to 8-12 week apart spray sessions.

The spraying only of the growing tips that have just emerged as new basals or new laterals which have not progressed to the large, green, garden pea size, seems to no longer be the methodology. The entire bush is now sprayed.

I would still make growing tips a focus, but since foliage already sprayed sending the insecticide to new, unsprayed as yet growth, seems to be the mode of protection, this may be unnecessary. I question this process, but will defer to the scientists' superior knowledge on this point. If they're right, such new generation treated rose bushes are a big toxic zone....let Rose Midge Flies enter at their imminent threat of destruction!

Moses.

“That's a wise decision to use dinotefuran. It is a third generation systemic neonicotinoid insecticide that moves through the rose, even to new growth made after spraying.”

Moses: I had an early tea today with you-know-who’s friend. It requested cake; I opted for bread and butter. I asked it about what you wrote, and this is what it told me (which is not to say it knows everything):

2. What the Official EPA Product Labels SayIf you examine the agricultural and commercial labels for major dinotefuran products—such as the Nufarm Safari 20 SG Insecticide Label—the manufacturer draws a strict distinction regarding new growth based on application method: [1]

• Soil Applications: The label explicitly states that when applied to the soil (as a drench), the chemical "will be taken up by the root system and translocated upward throughout the plant," making it highly effective at continually protecting newly emerging vegetative growth.
• Foliar Spray Applications: Conversely, the label states that when applied as a foliar spray, the product provides "translaminar and locally systemic control." Translaminar means the chemical moves through the leaf from the sprayed upper surface to the unsprayed lower surface. Locally systemicmeans it moves within that specific leaf or adjacent tissue, but it does not aggressively travel long distances up the stem into brand-new branches that sprout days later.

3. The Technical Catch for Rose MidgeBecause a foliar spray is primarily "locally systemic", it will reliably kill midge larvae feeding on the foliage and buds that already existed and were coated during the spray. However, foliar sprays do not translocate heavily into completely new growth that emerges after the spray event. Expert testimonies from university extension services and rose societies note that trying to protect a fast-growing rose from midge using only foliar sprays requires spraying frequently (sometimes every 3 to 10 days). This is because the rose is constantly pushing out untreated, unprotected tips.

Summary of Best Practices

To achieve the specific goal of letting a chemical translocate internally to protect future new growth, independent researchers and university extensions—such as the Mississippi State University Extension—recommend soil-drench applications rather than foliar sprays. A soil application creates a steady reservoir in the root zone, allowing the highly soluble dinotefuran to constantly pump upward into new shoots as they grow.

Thank you for sharing with me what you have learned....

My apprehension about soil drenches, not only going by my unsuccessful attempt at it a few years back, as you may recall, is the overuse of a toxic chemical, just to control tiny, but extremely destructive maggots, creating a toxic soil and entire rose bush in the process, too.

I am not a purist, organic only person, I just try to be cautious where necessary.

All you need to do with rose midge fly problems is regularly*spray the first THREE INCHES oof every growing tip, and only until its developing flower bud (buds-for cluster bloomers), reaches the size of a large, green, fresh (not dried), garden pea. After the shoot reaches that milestone, the rose midge fly female will not lay her eggs on such advanced shoots. I have observed this habit over many years, and am persuaded, to my satisfaction, that I am correct in this observation.

With my method, very, very little insecticide is used. However, let everyone be convinced in their own minds how they will proceed in combatting the dreaded rose midge fly.

* regularly - 2 week intervals may be too long a time between spray sessions. Weather conditions may dictate shorter intervals.

Moses.

@Moses, Pitt PA, cold W & hot-humid S, z6

"Guess who just purchased Cyonara 9.7? I intend to do an every 8 week spray starting ASAP, to control an as yet unidentified caterpillar, possibly the Cabbage butterfly caterpillar, which is attacking the foliage surrounding new, small, green flower buds. It is not the Saw Fly, at least the damage is very different. The caterpillar does not harm the developing bud, but puts tiny holes in the leaves when just hatched, and proceeds to skeletonize the young foliage just around it as it grows. It is very small, green and needs to be addressed. Just about all new growth that is producing buds is hit."

Yikes. I wish you the best of luck in getting rid of that.

"Your spraying schedule, of course, need not be every 10 days to two weeks anymore. Because of your use of the newer pyrethroid (stomach poison),and nicotinoid (nervous system-paralysis), insecticides, according th what I have read, the schedule can be extended to 8-12 week apart spray sessions"

I read on the label that if I am using it as a foliar spray, I should apply it every 2–3 weeks as needed. However, if I am using it as a soil drench, I should apply it every 3 months. I only used the soil drench on roses that showed clear signs of infestation.

Do you usually add non-ionic surfactants to the mix?

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/6501106/anybody-dealing-with-rose-midge-fly-so-far-this-year

Omar,

That little caterpillar was very effectively controlled to the point of practically no damage seen while I sprayed for Rose Midge Fly. A '2 for 1,' deal, so to speak. I've done a lot of digging on it and have not seen the same damage done on my roses in any photos seen yet in the literature. The closest is sawfly caterpillar damage, a completely different looking caterpillar, and with different damage done, lace like damage appearing on larger, mature leaves, not skeletonized, small leaves just below the flower.

Now that I have been given a break from RMF damage, and no longer have to spray for that, the growth tip caterpillar has reemerged. Fortunately, if not sprayed now at all the developing flower bud grows on to bloom are undamaged. The small leaves just below it will be badly damaged, but the next lower leaves on that stem will be pristine, undamaged. So the energy generated by the large lower leaves sustains the bud developing to the blooming stage. The damage is more cosmetic.

I have used a spreader-sticker, but have not seen the spray stick more effectively than when not used. I only use the insecticide concentrate with water, nothing else. I even think that a foliar sprayed systemic can be inhibited from being absorbed into leaves by adding a non-ionic surfactant, spreader-sticker.

Moses.

@Moses, Pitt PA, cold W & hot-humid S, z6 @rifis (zone 6b-7a NJ)

Update:

Finally, my Dee-lish rose now has 6–8 healthy buds.

I performed a thorough inspection and, interestingly, found four thick stems (not the tips or buds) with black, damaged areas containing multiple dead, rusty-colored larvae. The buds on these blackened stems are still opening normally. However, I pruned the entire stems that showed black damage.

So far, dinotefuran appears to be working remarkably well. I will continue monitoring the roses closely and plan to apply another spray in a week.

Omar,

Looks like you turned disaster into success. Congratulations! I hope that in the nearest future the rose midge fly will die out in your garden. It can happen. It happened to me. I never even dreamt of the possibility of RMF disappearing in my garden. All the rosarians I know of around me are resigned to having a life long struggle with it. Never reaching eradication, just achieving a good level of control is all that can be expected, and only if a diligent spray program is maintained.

Moses.