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Backsplash for Peninsula opinions

HU-630942538
April 17, 2019
Hi,

I installed backsplash in our kitchen and it was fairly easy until I got to the peninsula and I’m currently debating if it looks ok. I’m open to removing. How would you have tiled this area?

Comments (46)

  • lizziesma

    Looks okay, I would've asked for a mitered corner. Do they make a bullnose corner piece (no idea of correct term)? Once you get your "stuff" on the counters will be less noticeable.

  • castlebari
    It looks great. Very finished! Don’t look at it too much. Don’t agonize. Just put a teapot with some flowers there and get on with your lovely life.
  • HU-630942538
    @lizzie we did attempt the mider corner but it added more grout lines and made it extremely busy.
  • PRO
  • foxrenovations

    @castlebari Thank you I really needed to hear that! I wasn't sure if I was overthinking this, or if it truly needs to be fixed!

  • PRO
    Beth H. :

    sorry. I disagree. you should have used bullnose tiles for the edges. You also want to avoid any sliver cuts. (the super small pieces just before your vertitcal tile.


    here's my shower showing the edge bullnose pieces. on the very top tile, I used the long edge bullnose.


    this looks much cleaner than running vertical tiles or even pencil liners

    remove the vertical tiles and those tiny sliver cuts and install bullnose. you'll need bullnose on the short ends, and a bullnose on the long end (for the top tile)


    remove all the tiles in black. on your top row, replace those 2-3 tiles w/top edge bullnose. on the ends, you'll need 5 end piece bull nose





    f you can't find bullnose tiles, then use a liner or a Schluter edging piece. again,,,no thin slivers.




    If you really want to border w/another tile, this is the way it's done (but even these edges are bullnose and finished)


    and notice, NO SLIVERS!

  • foxrenovations

    Those border tiles are bullnose tiles. How would you suggest I get rid of the slivers if I wanted to end the backsplash at the counter? I couldn't wrap my mind around it other than to cut those slivers to terminate. The normal 3x6 tile would not reach the end of the counter and if I installed the bullnose are the end of it the counter would have hung over which would defeat the purpose of bringing it to the end of the counter.

  • foxrenovations

    Your advice is super helpful!!! I think it would look much better like that.

  • PRO
    Beth H. :

    this is why all of this should be laid out first, before you set you tile. you should have run the smaller pieces into the wall where they won't be seen.


    why can't you do your edges like the pic on the left? doesn't look like it's more than 3-4"



    stand further back and lets see the entire run

    what is the distance from the first sliver to the end of the countertop?

    if you're saying you have a fraction of inch or so, then do the pencil liner or a flat edge piece. but I still don't see why you can't use bullnose tiles (on the short side) to finish the ends.

  • HU-630942538
    We did have a plan, and it’s currently backfiring lol I researched and most people said to start behind the sink since that’s your focal point. I’m currently regretting that idea. This may sound very ridiculous, but I had no idea they made 3x6 bullnosed tiles which is why I ended up buying those longer bullnose tiles.
  • PRO
    Beth H. :

    yeah, 'most' people don't know how to lay out tile! it's always smart to do a dry run on the floor to see where you're going to have small cuts. this way you can adjust.


    just remove the end, and those slivers, and plug in your short side bullnose. it will look fine. use the long edge bull nose for your top pieces. fill the outside joints with paintable caulking. when dry, carefully paint any caulk that you can see. (make sure when you wipe and clean you caulk it's very smooth)

  • foxrenovations

    Thanks! I do know how to properly caulk so that's a plus lol one last question, do you suggest or have any tips to remove the tile without damaging the wall? Thanks

  • HU-630942538
    That was much easier than I thought! Now you suggest removing those top two correct? I remove the second row two full tiles and replace those with bull nose tiles right?
  • PRO
    Beth H. :

    you might have to chip them. has the mortar been curing long? try some chisels and carefully pry them off of the wall. use caution not to damage the good part of the wall. chip the tiles carefully from the mortar, and then see if you can scrape or chisel off the dried mortar. (wear glasses!) if you have bits of leftover, try sanding them smooth

  • foxrenovations

    Removing them worked perfect...just getting the remaining mortar off the wall! It just cured two nights ago and it's been driving me nuts since then....my step dad was over here helping me and convinced me it looked great.

  • PRO
    Beth H. :


    take out the X ones too. replace w/full tiles w/side bullnose. (cut the other end if you need to make them smaller)

    your top ones are off. the lines don't match up. do you really need that very top? or can you end with the 2nd row? if not, get new top bullnose and follow the exact tile layout .


    another way to picture this as you tile, is to always remember to see your tiles as one continuous line. when you cut around things, imagine the tiles are already laid out, and you're removing the portion from that row, without disrupting the linear pattern. does this make sense? it's so hard to try and explain in a text


    (your step-dad was being nice) or, he might not know what it would look like done correctly. trust me, it will look so much better this way

  • PRO
    BeverlyFLADeziner

    Graceful ways to end a backsplash




  • foxrenovations

    That totally makes sense. That is actually a skinnier bull nose tile - not a full subway bull nose on top which I thought they should also like up with the tile lines, but my step dad also said you never line up or care if they line up. Again I was questioning it. I just removed the top layer which isn't neccesary at all. The long bull nose made us do that.

  • HU-630942538
    Now here is my last question. This is the other side of my kitchen which you can see I terminated that side with a long bullnose on each side. Is that okay since it’s a different wall or would you change those out and replace with a full tile?! No sliver cuts haha!
  • PRO
    Beth H. :

    ok, please disregard whatever your step father is telling you about tiling.

    no, you do not use skinnier tiles. yes, your lines should add up on every other line. all you're doing is 50/50 offset pattern. when one row is done, the next row is 50% offset all the way down the line. then the next row matches the first row, and so on. it should all be symmetrical and balanced on both ends, top to bottom.

    see how (this is my shower) the tiles continue the pattern, even w/the cut out?

    you could patch in tiles in the middle and they should still fill in perfectly. look at the ends. both sides are exact. this took hours to lay out this pattern to get everything symmetrical, especially the pattern in the middle. The sides will wrap around to the other wall, still maintaining the pattern.

    you don't need that very top row because your tiles stop to the underside of your cabinets. just use the bullnose (long end) tile when you clear the cabinets. Your tiles should be the same height on left side as they are on the right, up to the underside. you don't want an extra row on the left.

    oh lawd,,,you never showed any of the other side.

    you want it all the same. and take the tiles out to the edge of the countertop. don't leave an inch of wall above.

    personally, I don't like this. they ended w/the upper cabs and left an inc hanging in the breeze. it's a personal choice.


    the backsplash is for the countertop, not the upper cabs.

  • HU-630942538
    Perfect! Everything is aligned and symmetrical all the way until the darn end!

    Lawd hahaha I know! I’m so happy you responded to this post because it’s incredibly helpful. To be clear, you want me to remove those long ones on the other side and replace those with a full tile w/ bullnose correct?
  • PRO
    Beth H. :

    this is another option. a flat, thin liner. it's a nice clean finish.


  • HU-630942538
    Also forgot to explain this part...I stopped at the cupboard here, because if I went to the end of the counter I wasn’t sure if I should go all the way up to the wall?!
  • HU-630942538
    I love that flat line too is that just a piece of trim or tile?!
  • PRO
    Beth H. :

    here's a visual for you. decide if you like it stopped w/upper cab, or take it out to the edge of countertop.

    this one goes to the edge.

    I don't care for this look. I'd take it all the way to the edge, but maintain the height w/the uppers.

    another option. this is all a personal choice.




    if you stop even w/your upper, you'll have 1-2 inches of bare wall above the countertop. if you like that, fine. I don't. but it's not my kitchen! lol
    and yes, remove the X tiles and replace with your side bullnose

    Now you can see why measuring your span and dry fitting your tiles first is so important. this edge will be in full view, so you want this to look perfect.

  • PRO
    Beth H. :

    depends if your tile that you've chosen makes any liners. some have flat liners, some don't.

    This is a Schluter Jolly trim piece, in white

    would look like this once set up. you dead end your tile edges into it and the Jolly finishes the edging

  • foxrenovations

    Okay off to work I go....going to grab some dinner then I'll send a finishing picture LOL Thank yuo so much for all your help!!!!!!! I feel like we are friends now! I'm going to do all your suggestions!

  • PRO
    Beth H. :

    two diff names?

  • foxrenovations

    I"m not sure why it's doing that...when I post pictures I do it on my phone and when I'm just responding I'm on my laptop....the pictures for some reason wasn't loading on my iphone!

  • PRO
    Beth H. :

    Houzz has major issues w/their app for phones. always has.

    ok, go to work! don't worry about the splash. you've got the understanding now on how to finish it. I'm sure you'll do fine. otherwise, you've done a very nice job.

  • foxrenovations

    Houston we have a problem! I cannot find a 3x6 tile w/bullnose. I bought my tile from HD - Daltile - Bright White. I'm going to go to my 3rd HD today, and try menards and lowes to see if their white matches up with this bright white tile. Any suggestions if I cannot find this? I even tried seeing if it's available online - no luck.

  • ljptwt7
    Following. Want to see results. Very helpful post if I ever get new counters and can do a backsplash!
  • PRO
    Beth H. :

    fox,,,daltile makes the short side bullnose. did you have your HD check their stock? I see them online


    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Daltile-Rittenhouse-Square-3-in-x-6-in-White-Ceramic-Bullnose-Wall-Tile-0100S4639MOD1P2/202628745




    they have the right corner and left corner bullnose. you may have to order them online and have them shipped. Or, go to a tile place that sells DalTile and see if they have them in their warehouse

    they have a few diff white tones.


    they also have the corner bullnose.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Daltile-Rittenhouse-Square-3-in-x-6-in-White-Ceramic-Bullnose-Right-Corner-Wall-Tile-0100SCR4369M1P2/202628747



    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Daltile-Rittenhouse-Square-3-in-x-6-in-White-Ceramic-Bullnose-Left-Corner-Wall-Tile-0100SCL4369M1P2/202628746


    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Daltile-Ritten-House-3-in-x-6-in-White-Ceramic-Bullnose-Wall-Tile-K101S4369MOD1P2/100315660



  • foxrenovations

    Hi - both HD's told me they don't have any available in bright white - going to check into daltile dealers around here.

  • PegLee Roberts
    Hi there! Just wondering if there,s any wood in yur design ? Island? Dining table etc? I bought for little pennies on dollar Home Depot quarter round infused & stained to match ( they also have white) & tacked it ( it,s a moulding trim that comes in long pies - yu can have HD cut or use their miter as yur only charged per foot yu take
  • HU-630942538
    Peg lee that’s not a bad idea, but no wood ;(

    I did solve the problem and found the metal end piece!

    Next question,

    What is your opinion on the window? Totally forgot to ask you this. From everything I’ve read they say to pretend the window is there, but it is a small space.

    I should have end results tonight and then grout tomorrow!
  • PRO
    Beth H. :

    should be bullnose around the window too. Or, you could back off w/the tile and put a 2" window casing around it. that way you'll eat up the space between window and cab.

    like this one: (and notice the nice window covering)





    solar shade^.







    OR, you could wrap the tile around the inside of the window:


    you have any left over countertop you could use as a 'sill'? if not, try a nice piece of white oak or walnut.

    you can also wrap the inside w/wood like they've done here


    Schlüter Jolly trim


    or a pencil liner (one that is convex) so it covers the corner




    don't know if you're keeping the mini blind, but a nice roman shade, or cellular, or woven wood would look great once it's trimmed out




  • HU-630942538
    For sure doing the casing so glad I asked!! Saved me time and disappointment lol I’m doing the straight ends for the end of the counters! Pics to come - thank you so much for your guidance!
  • Claire Larece
    Have it done this way
  • PRO
    Beth H. :

    claire,,,read above. we've already addressed this issue. he didn't know about the bull nose edges.

    and I also prefer the splash being taken all the way to end. It's a personal choice.

    When it stops short, to me it looks half-done. Although, this one doesn't look too bad.


  • Claire Larece
    Oh sorry I didn’t see all of the messages
  • PRO
    Beth H. :

    found a few more pics (closeups) for the window

    Kind of funky how they did this tile on the inset ( I suspect they didn't have enough bullnose tiles so they improvised!)


    this one still requires bull nose edges but looks really clean on the inset portion of the window. (poor layout planning though. the two sides don't match each other. and look at the slivers on the right next to cab! for shame...lol)

  • HU-630942538
    Oh my gosh...the things you point out would literally make tear down that wall. I promise I’ll lay out my tile next time or I’ll fly you to Toledo! LOL I just finished up!
  • txandmt
    Beth’s statement, “the backsplash is for the countertop, not the upper cabinets,” makes so much sense and is an easy way to explain why the backsplash should go all the way to the end of the counter. I used to live in a house that had bare wall above the end of the counter and it was annoying to have to be real careful when spraying and cleaning that end in order to avoid marring the paint or drywall.
  • motupeg
    Great team work. Loved your tutorial Beth!
  • PRO
    Beth H. :

    oh man, soooo much better! nice work !! see how much cleaner and professional looking? now you can do your friends' backsplashes. lol

    what's the step dad think? lmao


    what are u using for grout color? I think light gray would be perfect. I used Mapei Warm Gray, (you saw my shower pics already)

    I like a bit of contrast otherwise it looks like a giant white sheet on your wall.

    Mapei-Frost

    this one I did for a client and it's Custom-Oyster Gray

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