The paint on the "leather" doesn't crack when you sit on it?

Naugahyde is artificial leather, also known as ''pleather'', with a knit fabric backing and an expanded polyvinyl chloride (PVC) plastic or rubber coating. What exact type of spray paint adheres well to naugahyde? Even if dry, is there any chance the spray paint on the seat could transfer to clothing especially if one sits for awhile? Based on use, would the seat retain its glossy look over time or would creases or cracks show as robinshill asked? Not a fan of the leftover blue upholstery on the seat's underside. Why not just spray paint the metal base and select a new, durable, upholstery fabric for the small seat?

Wow, spray bomb paint on a flexible, dyed (leather or probably vinyl) seat cover, you got to be kidding! Also look at the base, would you let this sit on your floor? Even concrete or porcelain will be scratched with this stool without the proper leg finishings. Houzz just lost a lot of respect from a great number of followers I'm afraid, very amature fix it video, definitely sub par..

You could always go the route of re-upholstering the vinyl/synthetic leather, but repainting it works as long as the vinyl is in good structural shape, with no holes or tears, and the spray paint is specifically design for vinyl/synthetic leather. I would have finished the underside of the seat and put rubber feet on the bottom.

Did you realize this was a Herman Miller dental assistant chair with a solid aluminum base? Pretty valuable in some markets.

I spray paint everything (I have 3 kids who needed college furniture and now apartment furniture upcycled). See it here brass chandelier transformed

I, too would have painted the underside of the seat of this chair. Also, no mention is made of cleaning it well before painting which is a very important step.

I guess this was "spray painting for dummies".

I've been finding old pieces of furniture, chairs, tables, lamps, etc...for many, many years and doing them over. I rarely use spray paint, I think it's a waste of money since a good deal of the spray goes into the air.

I'm just wondering why he went to all that trouble and then left the bottom of that cushion untouched and dirty looking.

I've been doing it wrong. Thought there was supposed to be texture and variations in surface materials. I now know that gloss stays with gloss and matt with matt.

He's a cutie. Wouldn't mind seeing more projects.

Sanding only the rough spots--REALLY! The whole base needs to be lightly sanded to add what is called "tooth" so the paint will adhere well and not chip off during use. I don't care if the paint is used for plastic or not paint is not pliable and will crack. Do it right in the first place and save a lot of work and frustration.

I, too, have painted a vintage ice cream parlour stool that I picked up at a garage sale. Mine was not apholstered though. (see my blog post about "Found Objects For The Garden").

MBZ Interiors, Inc. I have also painted an old tacky brass chandelier for the garden gazebo, (see my blog post about a "Brass Chendelier Make-Over That Didn't Break The Bank").

I love re-purposing and re-using objects.....

OMG Leave vintage alone. He paid $30.00, now it's worth maybe half that. As previous posts have said, the only thing it needed was a good cleaning and floor protectors on the feet. That was a waste of spray paint!......

gosh, you people are really negative. ok, not done the way you would have done it. we get that. But, lets give the guy credit for doing a project, not out buying the new poorly made, over priced crap that every retailer is selling. Perhaps you could channel that anger you show in this post into something more helpful. How about getting your neighborhood on a project to promote a healthy, beautiful outcome. I'd love to find some of you creative re-purposing folks near me. Mill Valley, CA

I would have left the base natural, however, those that believe it needs feet, the idea behind DIY, is that you can add these yourself. The video is to give you ideas. Put some casters on it, add some rubber feet, mu God it's inspiring you to be creative, not critique the idea.

If you read the article, you'll see that he left the underside unpainted for a reason - to hint at the stool's history.

All I want to know is, what kind of paint is good for metal furniture that won't flake off? This doesn't say what kind of paint he used, or how it's held up. . .

Loved the video, hope you have more like this. Can't wait to try this one.

We are professional furniture and Piano Restorers and I am happy when I at least see an effort in trying to keep a piece of furniture or what have you out of the dump or scrap yard and put it to new use. I agree with many about preparation is everything and it takes a few "years" to get it "right". So even though I would have done it a little differently, if it makes him happy, good! The incentive of the article I will assume is to spur all of you critics to show how much better you would do! yellowbarninteriors.com

I wouldn't bother with spray paint. I prefer to reupholster the seat.

Hey, all I asked was if the paint eventually cracked when you sat on it. If it doesn't, great! What kind of paint is it?

I actually own the original stools with round, wooden seats. Mine have a small, round wood back, all oak and metal. I purchased them about 36 years ago. Raised my kids on them. Very unique.

SEM is a brand of paint that is used in various areas, including
automotive. It is somewhat "flexible" as is used on arm rests, steering
wheels and horn covers, leather refinish "vinyl and nyleather". Also
good on plastic.

https://www.semproducts.com/

One thing
that would make an item like this look rather neat is a "hammered"
finish paint. Many older Jags used this finish on a lot of under hood
items, like the breather assembly. I've re-finished many items, the
hammered finish can make a old ceiling fan look really good.
As
for brands of paints for most any refinish, re-purpose, I've found in
my over 30 years, especially on many metals and plastics that
Rust-O-Lium is one of the easiest to work with and get a good finish.

you need to spray a couple coats of clear unless you won't the color to wear off. Especially on the seat and foot rest.

If you use a good quality, like Rustolium, Clear isn't necessary really, but it can't hurt. Just use same brand of clear coat.
With SEM product on seat, don't think clear is recommended on some of the colors/products. I certainly wouldn't use a product on seat that has no elasticity, there are probably others, I just refuse to use "cheap time", only to have it look bad after it's sat on after several weeks.

What would be really cool, if it's for a real shop, go easy rut and add non stick tape like say used on a trailer fender or mower deck for tops of legs/feet, (kinda like sandpaper, not as harsh) or, tape them off and add a truck bed liner type product. You can buy Rhino products in spray cans, or like me, buy larger quantity and use a HPLV top load sprayer, it's like a oversized air brush. This would also make for a non slip like surface on tops, and your feet won't slide off to easily.

I actually have one of my air brush sets with a large glass cup. Likely hold enough to do 2 coats with one filled bottle.