What to Know About Engineered Wood Floors
Engineered wood flooring offers classic looks and durability. It can work with a range of subfloors, including concrete
Barbara Milner
January 20, 2022
Houzz Contributor. Designer, journalist and vintage hound. I enjoy telling personal stories through my design projects and creating happy, practical spaces that are both inspirational and memorable. I adore edgy elegance and have a passion for vintage objects and curiosities. You can often find me with hair in bun and child in tow at thrift shops and antique markets. www.southhillinteriors.com.
Houzz Contributor. Designer, journalist and vintage hound. I enjoy telling personal... More
If you’re on the hunt for a long-lasting floor material with a classic look, you might want to consider engineered wood flooring. This material has the beauty of solid wood and the durability of laminate and can work with most design styles and in many rooms. Here’s what to know to decide whether this flooring choice could be right for your home.
Hand-scraped engineered oak flooring adds a rustic flavor to this kitchen.
What is Engineered Wood Flooring?
Unlike solid wood, engineered wood floors have a top or “wear” layer made of solid wood, which covers a multilayer plywood core. The thickness of the top layer and the core will vary depending on the design and the manufacturer.
In total thickness, engineered wood planks vary from as low-profile as one-quarter inch (6.35 mm) to as thick as three-quarters inch (19 mm, or the traditional thickness of solid-wood flooring). The thickness of the wear layer typically reflects the caliber of the product. The industry norm is 2 to 6 millimeters, with a thicker wear layer generally indicating a more premium product.
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What is Engineered Wood Flooring?
Unlike solid wood, engineered wood floors have a top or “wear” layer made of solid wood, which covers a multilayer plywood core. The thickness of the top layer and the core will vary depending on the design and the manufacturer.
In total thickness, engineered wood planks vary from as low-profile as one-quarter inch (6.35 mm) to as thick as three-quarters inch (19 mm, or the traditional thickness of solid-wood flooring). The thickness of the wear layer typically reflects the caliber of the product. The industry norm is 2 to 6 millimeters, with a thicker wear layer generally indicating a more premium product.
Find a kitchen and bathroom remodeler
Multitone engineered flooring installed in a herringbone pattern
The Advantages of Engineered Wood
Engineered wood flooring is available in a wide range of wood species, including oak, maple, hickory, birch, cherry and walnut, as well as exotic woods like African mahogany and tigerwood. It comes in a variety of widths ranging from slim to wide planks and is offered in specialty looks such as multitone, shown in this photo, or hand-scraped, shown in the previous photo.
All wood products — both solid wood and engineered wood — are prone to damage from flooding or standing water and should not be subjected to large amounts of water. However engineered wood is more stable than solid wood due to having multiple layers in its core, making it less likely to expand, contract or shift when exposed to moisture, humidity and temperature shifts. Its stability reduces the potential for warping that comes with all solid wood and particularly with wide planks of solid wood. The stability of engineered wood makes it a good choice in places where solid wood should not be installed, such as over concrete floors or radiant heating systems.
Since this material is available in more thicknesses than solid wood, it can be a good option if you need a thin wood (for example, to match the height of an adjoining floor).
Engineered wood can be less expensive than solid wood, though premium collections with thick top layers, artistic designs and enhanced durability can have price tags on par with solid wood.
See engineered wood flooring options
The Advantages of Engineered Wood
Engineered wood flooring is available in a wide range of wood species, including oak, maple, hickory, birch, cherry and walnut, as well as exotic woods like African mahogany and tigerwood. It comes in a variety of widths ranging from slim to wide planks and is offered in specialty looks such as multitone, shown in this photo, or hand-scraped, shown in the previous photo.
All wood products — both solid wood and engineered wood — are prone to damage from flooding or standing water and should not be subjected to large amounts of water. However engineered wood is more stable than solid wood due to having multiple layers in its core, making it less likely to expand, contract or shift when exposed to moisture, humidity and temperature shifts. Its stability reduces the potential for warping that comes with all solid wood and particularly with wide planks of solid wood. The stability of engineered wood makes it a good choice in places where solid wood should not be installed, such as over concrete floors or radiant heating systems.
Since this material is available in more thicknesses than solid wood, it can be a good option if you need a thin wood (for example, to match the height of an adjoining floor).
Engineered wood can be less expensive than solid wood, though premium collections with thick top layers, artistic designs and enhanced durability can have price tags on par with solid wood.
See engineered wood flooring options
This living room features wide-plank engineered white oak flooring.
Engineered wood is also a great way to get the look of wide-plank wood floors, a staple of farmhouse style. In fact, engineered wood or reclaimed wood may be your only options if you want planks wider than 5 inches.
A century ago loggers would cut down large trees and make them into 10- or 12-inch-wide planks for flooring. But a growing interest in protecting old-growth forests eventually led to a shift toward sustainability in the industry, and these days loggers do not take down trees as large (and wide) as those they took 100 years ago. This is why solid wood planks are expensive and typically come at a maximum width of 5 inches. Engineered planks, by contrast, come in widths of 10 inches or more. (To be sure your engineered wood product is sustainably harvested, check for certification from the Forest Stewardship Council, or FSC.)
How to Install Engineered Wood Flooring
Engineered wood planks typically come with a tongue-and-groove construction that clicks or snaps together, making DIY installation an option for handy homeowners. Engineered wood planks can be installed using staples or glue, or by simply laying them on top of the subfloor — no fixative or nails required. This means engineered wood can be installed over concrete floors or radiant heat. By contrast, solid-wood flooring must typically be nailed down and can’t be installed over these types of subfloors.
See more of this home
Flooring: Thames White Oak, The Eighteen Seventy-Five Collection, Real Wood Floors
Engineered wood is also a great way to get the look of wide-plank wood floors, a staple of farmhouse style. In fact, engineered wood or reclaimed wood may be your only options if you want planks wider than 5 inches.
A century ago loggers would cut down large trees and make them into 10- or 12-inch-wide planks for flooring. But a growing interest in protecting old-growth forests eventually led to a shift toward sustainability in the industry, and these days loggers do not take down trees as large (and wide) as those they took 100 years ago. This is why solid wood planks are expensive and typically come at a maximum width of 5 inches. Engineered planks, by contrast, come in widths of 10 inches or more. (To be sure your engineered wood product is sustainably harvested, check for certification from the Forest Stewardship Council, or FSC.)
How to Install Engineered Wood Flooring
Engineered wood planks typically come with a tongue-and-groove construction that clicks or snaps together, making DIY installation an option for handy homeowners. Engineered wood planks can be installed using staples or glue, or by simply laying them on top of the subfloor — no fixative or nails required. This means engineered wood can be installed over concrete floors or radiant heat. By contrast, solid-wood flooring must typically be nailed down and can’t be installed over these types of subfloors.
See more of this home
Flooring: Thames White Oak, The Eighteen Seventy-Five Collection, Real Wood Floors
Dark engineered oak in a wide plank brings a classic feel to this bathroom.
Disadvantages of Engineered Wood Floors
Not all engineered flooring is created equal. Some products are made to last while others are poorly made, so be sure to do your research before you make your selection.
While many products are thick enough to look and feel just like solid wood, some engineered wood planks can sound more hollow under the foot. Installation method can make a difference here — stapling or gluing the planks to the subfloor tends to diminish this hollow sound. Again, check with the manufacturer to find out how your preferred method of installation might affect how hollow the floor sounds.
Engineered flooring handles moisture swings better than solid-wood flooring, but it may still not be the best choice in bathrooms, laundry rooms, basements or other areas where flooding could be an issue. Consult with your contractor about the use of engineered wood flooring in these areas of your house.
Can You Refinish Engineered Wood Floors?
While solid wood can be refinished many times, engineered wood may be sanded and refinished less often throughout the life of the floor. The thicker the wear layer, the more sanding an engineered floor can take.
If you have pets and kids and are concerned about scratches, I recommend you look at engineered wood with a thicker layer so you can sand and refinish the floor if needed.
Disadvantages of Engineered Wood Floors
Not all engineered flooring is created equal. Some products are made to last while others are poorly made, so be sure to do your research before you make your selection.
While many products are thick enough to look and feel just like solid wood, some engineered wood planks can sound more hollow under the foot. Installation method can make a difference here — stapling or gluing the planks to the subfloor tends to diminish this hollow sound. Again, check with the manufacturer to find out how your preferred method of installation might affect how hollow the floor sounds.
Engineered flooring handles moisture swings better than solid-wood flooring, but it may still not be the best choice in bathrooms, laundry rooms, basements or other areas where flooding could be an issue. Consult with your contractor about the use of engineered wood flooring in these areas of your house.
Can You Refinish Engineered Wood Floors?
While solid wood can be refinished many times, engineered wood may be sanded and refinished less often throughout the life of the floor. The thicker the wear layer, the more sanding an engineered floor can take.
If you have pets and kids and are concerned about scratches, I recommend you look at engineered wood with a thicker layer so you can sand and refinish the floor if needed.
Engineered French oak in this kitchen emulates the look of solid wood.
Special Considerations
Engineered and manufactured wood products are made with adhesives and resins, most of which can give off potentially harmful gasses. Some engineered products, however, are designed specifically to not off-gas. If you’re worried about this, contact the manufacturer of a product you are considering to see if their product will meet your needs.
See more engineered oak flooring
Special Considerations
Engineered and manufactured wood products are made with adhesives and resins, most of which can give off potentially harmful gasses. Some engineered products, however, are designed specifically to not off-gas. If you’re worried about this, contact the manufacturer of a product you are considering to see if their product will meet your needs.
See more engineered oak flooring
This hand-scraped curitiba wood engineered flooring offers subtle texture to this space.
How Do You Clean Engineered Wood?
Engineered wood flooring is easy to maintain. Simply sweep or vacuum daily and mop with a cloth dampened with water. Avoid ammonia, harsh detergents, scouring pads or steel wool. It’s always a good idea to refer to additional recommendations from the manufacturer.
Tell us: Do you have engineered wood floors at home? Please tell us about your experience with them in the Comments.
More on Houzz
How to Clean Your Hardwood Floors
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How Do You Clean Engineered Wood?
Engineered wood flooring is easy to maintain. Simply sweep or vacuum daily and mop with a cloth dampened with water. Avoid ammonia, harsh detergents, scouring pads or steel wool. It’s always a good idea to refer to additional recommendations from the manufacturer.
Tell us: Do you have engineered wood floors at home? Please tell us about your experience with them in the Comments.
More on Houzz
How to Clean Your Hardwood Floors
Find a general contractor
Browse engineered flooring
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We built our home & I chose engineered wood flooring for our foyer, club room, great room/kitchen/dining room. I chose a maple and so far I absolutely love it. Our furniture is rosewood with some teak pieces & it’s a great compliment to our furniture. We have a large area rug in the great room & another rug under our dining room table. I have arthritis & the engineered wood is gentler on my knees than tile. I run the vacuum once a week, Swiffer once a week & clean with Bona for wood floors every few weeks.
We dog sit our sons 2 dogs & our 3 year old granddaughter loves running through the house. I’m very pleased.
We have a flat roof on our Georgian-style new-build due to height restrictions. Given my aversion to bulkheads, radiant hydronic underfloor heating was the only option. It was installed throughout the house, including the basement and garage (which uses glycol). Pex tubing was laid over concrete and covered in thinset. I love solid, hardwood floors, which we had in our previous house, but they are unsuitable in radiant-heated floors. Thus, engineered hardwood flooring was glued to the concrete over our four floors, including the basement. Since my husband was tired of oak and wanted wide planked floors, we chose Preverco’s birch, 5” wide planks, with a custom matte, brushed cappuccino finish that compliments our transitional/traditional decor. Birch is a softer wood - radiant-heating floors require softer woods - but I haven’t found that it dents any more than does solid hardwood, and we have had both a dog and numerous cats. We don’t wear shoes in our house, nor is it the custom to do so in our part of the world - why anyone would wear high heals in a house is beyond me. It does scratch, but so does solid hardwood. I put felt pads on the bottom of my chairs. I have a can of custom-matched stain, and I intend to stain the scratches using either a fine artist’s brush or a feather (I’m pretty crafty) when I can stomach the thought of crawling around on the floor. Matte finishes do show dust more than shinier finishes; I should have insisted on the satin finish I preferred! The concrete floors provide almost complete sound barriers between floors, and there are no creaks! I refused to accept that engineered floors can’t be wet-mopped, given that they’re supposed to be so stable and hard-finished - after all, the cleaning solution Preverco sells is a concentrated liquid that is supposed to be mixed with water and sprayed on. So, I wet-mop my floors using an O’Cedar spin mop and water mixed with a few squirts of Dr. Meyer’s lemon liquid soap, and my floors come out clean, in their original finish, without any clouding, cupping, splitting or staining, and with a lovely citrus scent. I have ceiling fans in all my bedrooms, which I turn to help dry the floors more quickly. I have large area rugs in my formal rooms and two of my four bedrooms, and do not notice any difference in heat dispersal in those rooms from the others that have smaller throw, or no, rugs. We have auxiliary heat in the ceilings of the formal rooms, in any event, because of their size, which undoubtedly helps to even out the heat throughout the house. I have a problem with the assertion that rugs interfere with radiant heat; once the rug heats up to the same temperature as the floor, it will radiate that heat, as well. Of course, electric radiant heat has different issues. Our HVAC system is connected to our home automation, so almost every room is a discrete heating zone. The upper two floors have a high velocity A/C system, while the ground floor and basement share a forced air A/C system. We have a humidifier attached to the forced air blower that runs year round and manages to humidify the whole house (still don’t understand how that works). It all seems quite complicated, and our mechanical room looks like it belongs in a ship, but it works well, is incredibly efficient and costs half as much to run as our previous house that was one-third the size, and our engineered floors appear to be holding their own. Reading about everyone’s problems filled me with dread, so I hope my story brings some comfort to readers.
One advantage: If you are a minimalist when it comes to furnishings. you can avoid the "echo" that tile gives off by putting in engineered floors -- no "echo," the wood absorbs sounds.