Kitchen ideas

Reply to: I have Shaker, but in your case I'd warmly recommend slab style. It fits the era of your house perfectly and will be less maintenance for you. The Shaker style works very well for my 1923 bungalow, but I don't like the small pockets of dust that get into the bottom corners (my shakers are classic sharp recessed, no bead or trim) that I sometimes have to use a Q-tip to remove. I don't see how slab doors could ever be wrong in a 1950's/60's house - they will fit the rest of your trim. So my vote is for slab. As a recent buyer and someone picky about continuity of style, I certainly wouldn't reject a late 1950's house for slab doors in the kitchen -- done well, they would be a bonus for me. (I hunted in vain for an Eames-era house in my area, but there are maybe 3 of them in the entire city of Portland ME!)

Q

Reply to: this ones a bit different. the two passages into space are quite wide... it has almost a perfect situation w the two semi open walls.........you have that secondary zone just outside the kitchen with a built in niche. I'd give myself a budget and see about using the space as is w replacing everything [cabs should be drawers so you gotta replace] and think about an island opposite that niche..right outside the kitchen. Not certain what other seating you will end up having so plan around a table to be situated elsewhere......have to plan this out but it would intrigue me to work within existing boundaries and leave the small amt of walls and the great openings intact. here are [contd below] some pics probably more what you are thinking about . its a large space over all and the tendency is to open it which is your initial impulse. consider all the options.

Q

Reply to: Last year, I used an Amish family, Sweetwater woodworks out of Narvon, pa. They did fantastic custom cabs and were easy to work with. Turns out earlier this year they won both best kitchen design and BIS at the philly home show. No small feat.

Q

Reply to: Not sure what your builder is talking about when he says you don't need to fill and sand stained wood...or put on multiple coats. Depending on the wood, a sanding sealer is laid on, then sanded. The stain is applied in one or two coats and let dry. Then a coat of clear varnish or waterborne urethane. Sand again. Then color matched putty...individually tinted by hand to match the grain, filling all the nail holes. Then another coat of varnish...or two, sanding in between. No caulk. In my trade we have a saying..."a little caulk, a little paint make a carpenter what he ain't." Only the best finishing carpenters do stain grade work. Paint grade is for rookies and hacks...or for budget...or style. Paint grade done to stain grade carpentry makes my painter happy. He spends less on caulk and his fingers don't hurt at the end of the day.

Q

Reply to: Sure, here you go:

Q

Reply to: Medallion is a really nice cabinet line that has 3 levels: Silverline, Gold and Platinum. All Medallion has wood dovetailed drawers and soft close guides and hinges. Silverline is a NICER builder grade and offers some nice upgrades, if needed. (ie real wood veneer ends) Gold offers mostly full overlay framed cabinets. Platinum offers flush and beaded inset cabinets. Medallion finishes are better than average for this type of semi-custom cabinet. Their paints are really nice. I have been selling Medallion for about 15 years. We very rarely have warranty issues or concealed damage in shipping. We have an occasional replacement door issue (ie bad finish, scratch, warping...etc).

Q

Reply to: In our previous home we had Medallion Platinum in our master bath in white chocolate. Very good finish. Our new house has the Gold series in white icing in our kitchen and master bath. Again, very good finish with no issues after two years.

Q