pocola

Reply to: homechef, there's a reason that Southern Living is one of the last longstanding shelter magazines left : ) . Going off what Em said, I've always been out of step with my style preferences, and I've always been, probably perversely, happy to be so. Though it can make things difficult to find; I just learned that Ikea apparently, and recently, stopped producing their Domsjo apron front sink. I'm so glad that we purchased ours (both the double bowl and single bowl versions) years before we started building our new house, because I was so worried that it wouldn't be available once we started the house. And then all of a sudden, apron-front farmhouse sinks were everywhere lol. As it turned out, Ikea changed kitchen cabinet styles (Sektion) shortly after we started building, so that gave my husband a little bit of extra work, fitting the old Domsjos into the new cabinetry. I'm also happy to see block print textiles enjoying new popularity, and accessibility, in the past few years. A few more IG accounts for those who enjoy American traditional and/or English country styles, Tessa Foley's nineandsixteen Australian designer Jenny Rose-Innes Classic Six Paula at Hill House Vintage UK textile designer and dealer Susan Deliss Robin Lucas Jack Laver Brister at tradchap Bible of British Taste River Road Farm Australian designer Lisa Burdus

Q

Reply to: A little late here but we have a removable cutting board at the end of our island. I had toyed around with the idea of having a permanent one that was flush with the counter (soapstone), but DH wasn't so cool with the seam between the two. So we went this route. I like how it is removable, but it's heavy, so I don't actually pick it up and wash it in the sink very often anyway. We're a non-meat kitchen, and in 6 years have been fine with cleaning it in place. It's maple and walnut. I thought it might bug me being higher than the counter, but I actually like it. Trash is under the opposite side.

Q

Reply to: I have butcher block by Boos as the end of my island. It is 2x3 feet. I do not have it attached so I flip it every season when I oil my soapstone and butcher block. It does get crumbs in the crack so I would recommend keeping it mobile. Plus you really should keep both sides oiled as well. Good luck. Not the best picture but my counters are a mess right now so I used an old one

Q

Reply to: Soapstone and butcher block look great together. I had a big expanse of butcher block in my old kitchen that I had refinished and reinstalled. I like it a lot, and it saved me a bundle on soapstone.

Q

Reply to: I had it installed above one cabinet next to marble Here is a link that might be useful:

Q

Reply to: I would do some more research and treat what comes up when you do a google search with great caution. If you tag your house as 1920s, it will show in the search results even if every single thing in it shouts 2012. Marble counters, for instance, were not very common in the average home in the 20s. Wood, zinc, linoleum, even tile, were seen much more often. A couple of places to do more research: antiquehomestyle.com https://archive.org/details/buildingtechnologyheritagelibrary The latter has hundreds and hundreds of catalogs of homes, home plans, plumbing, lighting, decor magazines, etc., which you can sort by year to see what the trends were when your house was built. I know there is a strong prejudice against ever painting any wood here, but the fact is that not all wood at the time was meant to be visible. They used paint-grade wood for things even back then and that was always painted, right from the beginning. It drives me kind of crazy to see an old hoosier-style cabinet made of paint-grade wood that even has the original color scheme (ivory/mint, for instance) stenciled on the back by the factory, which has been stripped to a mishmash of unmatching woods and left that way in the name of "restoration." Cpartist's kitchen is very popular here, a new kitchen built in an oldish style: [https://www.houzz.com/discussions/sneak-peek-preview-cpartists-kitchen-dsvw-vd~5284874[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/sneak-peek-preview-cpartists-kitchen-dsvw-vd~5284874) Another interesting place to look is google books, which has a great many old magazine issues available for download, for magazines like Good Housekeeping, Ladies Home Journal, House and Garden, etc.

Q

Reply to: A refrigerator puts all of its weight onto four rather small surfaces. Also, adjusting the height often requires some part to rotate against the floor. Cork is soft, but can work if the refrigerator support points rest on a rigid pad of some sort that will spread the weight onto a wider zone; steel, aluminum, Haldex (quarter-inch hardwood plywood) are possible candidates. kas

Q

Reply to: I sort of have to chuckle--we have cork in our kitchen and did not put cork under the fridge--didn't want the fridge to sink into it! We put 1/2" plywood painted to match the fridge under there. It's the same height as the cork. We did the same with our range too.

Q

Reply to: Another one here who uses a combo beeswax/mineral oil on both my soapstone and butcher block. I feel my stone stays dark longer with it. I love the way my butcher block looks and feels with it. Does a great job of protecting my butcher block. I shopped around and found the best deal on ebay. THe seller is a very nice woman in Michigan who is also a wood worker. Here is a link that might be useful: Beeswax/Mineral Oil on Ebay

Q

Reply to: There is a combined beeswax / mineral oil treatment that many GWers use. It's sold commercially, but I'm just planning to make a big vat of it myself. 2 parts oil to 1 part beeswax. You can use it on both the butcherblock and the soapstone.

Q

Reply to: Nope...HUSH works with single sinks, too. (Pic from BraxtonBragg website)

Q

Reply to: *Is it sufficient for the "clips" that are screwed into the side of the cabinet to be only slightly higher than the bowl? *The sides of our cabinets are plywood - I'm assuming that will be fine to screw into and we don't need any other blocking or anything, correct?" andreak100: I've retrofitted HUSH's before. Simply screw the clips to the top of a piece of plywood, then screw the bottom of the plywood to the cabinet sides. This pushes the clips high enough to work perfectly. Plywood cabinet sides are plenty strong enough to support the harness and sink.

Q

Reply to: He loves the sink strap. Says it's easier because the adjustment isn't as finicky. If I hadn't already purchased the HUSH, I'd get them. About the plywood strips, it sounds like it would still work. They're attached to the inside of the cabinet where you want to attach the Hercules. You screw the mounting bracket into the plywood, that's attached to the sidewall of the cab. Saying that, I'd go with Sink Strap anyway!

Q

Reply to: "Am I correct in assuming that this harness can be used even when there is little to no space between sink flange and cab side?" Yes. I've used a HUSH in situations so tight that I had to tap the HUSH tabs down with a hammer and put the sink up one side at a time. Once I cut the cabinet sides out and replaced them with blocking glued to the outside of the cabinet so the clips would clear. You gotta do what you gotta do. Fortunately no one will really see, so it doesn't have to be pretty.

Q

Reply to: Move to see if it works and try each piece in both places. If you don’t mind not facing the fireplace (put tv on a swivel base), try seating across from each other. Whatever you decide on, you will need to balance the room; coffee table, etc and drapes (try Ikea) would help in that regard. Once set up, you’ll have a better sense of what’s needed and where. If you want advice, provide a picture of the entire room.

Q

Reply to: I have Elephant Tusk in my Kitchen (walls). Funny that it seemed beige on the poster board I painted but then when it got painted on the kitchen walls (pre-cabinets) it looked yellowy and I got nervous b/c I didn't want even MORE yellow. However once the yellow cabs went in it went back to looking beige and not yellow at all! : ) Anyway, it's too light for marcolo but I think what you say makes sense michoumonster. I think marcolo will need a yellowy beige/cream and the right one will read yellow.

Q

Reply to: Benjamin Moore Windham Cream (#HC-6). 2LittleFishies mentioned it, and I'll second it. It's cream with a touch of yellow. Benjamin Moore describes it as "A sunlit, luscious cream with a whispery undertone of pale butter." The website's pic appears deeper than actual, and deeper even than their own description, though it could just be my monitor. I have it on my kitchen walls, and I love it. I do have a very large window, though it faces north-west and there's lots of trees, so I am not getting any direct light. The paint color is paler during the day with the yellow barely detectible, while at night, it is definitely yellow. It really is a butter color, but think the color of imported french butter, not annatto-enhanced supermarket butter. Here is a link that might be useful: Benjamin Moore Windham Cream This post was edited by akchicago on Wed, Feb 27, 13 at 19:43

Q

Reply to: 1) In such a small kitchen I wouldn't use a full height pantry. I'd store pantry items in drawers or on a super susan. If you use a 36" super susan in the corner, you could have a narrow cabinet next to the range, for sheet pans and cutting boards. (I'm not familiar with all of Ikea's options--do they carry corner susans?) 2) MW beside the fridge is a better option, m/l hidden, and convenient for reheating leftovers. See pic below. 3) Combine the two smaller bases into one 36" drawer--you can always use dividers in the larger drawer. 4) I have a trash pull-out, and no, the cabinet doesn't smell bad. We compost and recycle, though, and I'm picky about what goes in the inside trash pull-out--no runny, potentially smelly items. Citrus peels are the only vegetable matter allowed in the can, because they smell nice. What's the narrow cabinet on the end? You could do an undersink trash pull-out, and combine the two narrow cabinets on the end into another wider drawer base.

Q

Reply to: HU: Your second picture appears to be that of a 2 cm top with a mitered perimeter edge. They didn't want to miter at the sink cut out, so they didn't. The first picture is a 3cm through-body top. Either is fine, except both are examples of a negative reveal which is where the top overhangs the sink. This creates an unsanitary and difficult to clean crud ledge in addition to leaving the bottom of the top exposed to chipping. A flush edge creates an elongated silicone joint that frays, becomes contaminated, unsanitary, and ugly. Insist upon a slight positive reveal please: This one's a little heavy, but I had to work with the existing cutout. You get the idea. Now you get a cleanable maintainence-free line between the bottom of the stone and the sink flange. When selecting a caulk color, always bring the stone to the sink, never the sink to the stone.

Q

Reply to: My kitchen is in progress. Sink is installed but no counter or faucet. I love how it looks. My cabinets are Medallion. I just couldn't do a fireclay sink. Not after reading stories here. Hopefully cast iron will hold up for us Here's a shot of the self rimming. Here's another pic. I don't think it will be a problem at all when the granite is installed. The DW will have a panel. Hopefully everything works together nicely. Supposedly we will have a finished house/kitchen in less than 3 weeks.

Q

Reply to: I found that about 2/3 mineral oil to 1/3 beeswax made for a much nicer blend for spreading. It has the consistency of melted butter, and so it take a lot less elbow grease to spread, while still keeping that 'beeswax' finish I used the ultra light oil from STE and some nice white triple filtered acacia beeswax on ebay

Q

Reply to: "i want to be able to cut on my counters." You should not cut on your counters - unless you want the counter to be on the fast track to a scarred, aged-before-its-time counter. Buy a separate cutting board. "I am looking for a food safe stain to so a white stain on maple" It would be better not to stain a maple butcher block countertop. Maple has a very tight grain - that is why it is so good as a butcher block counter. That makes maple difficult to stain without blotchiness, and the stain will easily be scratched anyway. "...seal with tung oil" Tung oil is a good choice in that it is food safe and does not go rancid. But it needs a lot of applications - like 5 coats. But also, it is made from the seeds of a nut, and there is a risk that people with nut allergies have a reaction to it. If someone has a nut allergy and sits at your tung-oil-coated counter, they may have a reaction. Not 100%, but is the risk worth it. "The only 𝐜𝐨𝐧𝐬𝐮𝐦𝐚𝐛𝐥𝐞 food safe option is mineral oil. It is sold as a laxative after all." Enough with the hyperbole. I agree with what @bry911 said, and here is a recommendation for a beeswax mix finish. Clapham's Beeswax Finish. They call it "salad bowl finish", but it is good for counters, cutting boards, furniture, etc. It's food-safe, made in a nut-free facility, the beeswax comes from the Peace River Valley in Alberta, Canada, and then the Finish is made in the U.S., is so safe that it is recommended for children's wood toys and cribs, and when you use it, it moisturizes your hands too. Amazon used to sell it, but I just checked and it must be out of stock on Amazon, but you can buy on the website if you like. https://claphams.com/product/beeswax-salad-bowl-finish/ Here is Roger Clapham:

Q

Reply to: “Mineral oil is the only food safe finish” There are many, many food safe finishes. In my opinion, for a white finish your best option is Rubio Monocoat Oil plus 2C. However, it will not be white like a bleached wood, it more or less prevents any of the darkening that finishes usually cause. Rubio’s universal maintenance oil is also food safe so use it instead of tung oil. ETA: a little goes a long way so you will not need much for that counter. A 350 ml can will leave you plenty leftover for repairs if needed.

Q