Textile Textbook: The Joy of Jacquards
Here’s how a 19th-century invention led to a wealth of textile patterns for your home
Jess McBride
March 6, 2016
Houzz Contributor. Custom decorating professional and content creator for the home design industry with a lifelong passion for color, pattern, and texture of every "stripe"
Houzz Contributor. Custom decorating professional and content creator for the home... More
The jacquard loom revolutionized the way complex textile patterns such as velvet, damask and paisley are produced. Before the loom was invented in 1801, jacquard weaving was an esteemed craft practiced by skilled artisans with a musician’s rhythm. One arm coordinated the weaving of horizontal weft yarns over and under the warp yarns that ran perpendicular to the loom, while the other arm alternately raised and lowered those tensioned warps.
The jacquard loom changed the game: Complex textile patterns were drawn onto grid paper and sent to a specialist who transformed the drawings into perforations punched onto a series of cards, which were then fed through the specialized loom, similar to how a player piano roll produces a song. Though a computer program handles the task today, knowing the history of this elegant craft can help us appreciate the long tradition of some of the most intricate fabric designs.
The jacquard loom changed the game: Complex textile patterns were drawn onto grid paper and sent to a specialist who transformed the drawings into perforations punched onto a series of cards, which were then fed through the specialized loom, similar to how a player piano roll produces a song. Though a computer program handles the task today, knowing the history of this elegant craft can help us appreciate the long tradition of some of the most intricate fabric designs.
Cut velvet
Cut velvet is a form of jacquard created when the velvet weft yarns are raised above the perpendicular warp yarns and then snipped into a soft pile. Fabrics that feature cut velvet typically boast a solid ground (or background, in non-fabric-speak) and a single color in the velvet. Expect multicolored cut velvet jacquards to boost the price per yard.
Cut velvet is a form of jacquard created when the velvet weft yarns are raised above the perpendicular warp yarns and then snipped into a soft pile. Fabrics that feature cut velvet typically boast a solid ground (or background, in non-fabric-speak) and a single color in the velvet. Expect multicolored cut velvet jacquards to boost the price per yard.
Tapestry
Tapestry is a heavy, jacquard-woven brocade in which multicolored warp yarns are used in both the warp and weft. Textile artists leverage the richness and variety of color to depict elaborate, colorful scenes. Though the resultant fabric is hardy, many find tapestries too precious to deploy for everyday use, which is why you’ll more commonly see them on walls than on furniture.
Tapestry is a heavy, jacquard-woven brocade in which multicolored warp yarns are used in both the warp and weft. Textile artists leverage the richness and variety of color to depict elaborate, colorful scenes. Though the resultant fabric is hardy, many find tapestries too precious to deploy for everyday use, which is why you’ll more commonly see them on walls than on furniture.
Featured here is a bevy of jacquard fabrics on furniture pieces by Emmanuel Design Group, a Texas furniture maker that specializes in techniques used by 16th-century artisans. Jacquard fabrics loomed the traditional way perfectly complement custom and antique furniture pieces.
Matelasse
French for “quilted,” matelasse is another woven fabric that is commonly created on a jacquard loom using a double-cloth technique. Instead of single warp and weft yarns, additional filler or “stuffer” yarns are added to produce a pattern with a quilted look. Matelasse fabrics are most commonly found as bedding, but there’s no reason they can’t be used as upholstery and drapery.
French for “quilted,” matelasse is another woven fabric that is commonly created on a jacquard loom using a double-cloth technique. Instead of single warp and weft yarns, additional filler or “stuffer” yarns are added to produce a pattern with a quilted look. Matelasse fabrics are most commonly found as bedding, but there’s no reason they can’t be used as upholstery and drapery.
Here’s an example of a beautiful matelasse chair.
Damask
Plenty of design enthusiasts have come to identify the damask weave with the iconic large-scale stylized floral pattern shown here, but it’s actually a type of jacquard technique. True damask fabrics may feature geometric or floral patterns and are typically tone-on-tone, with a flat face and a bit of sheen. Flip over a woven damask and you’ll find the negative image with the colors reversed.
Plenty of design enthusiasts have come to identify the damask weave with the iconic large-scale stylized floral pattern shown here, but it’s actually a type of jacquard technique. True damask fabrics may feature geometric or floral patterns and are typically tone-on-tone, with a flat face and a bit of sheen. Flip over a woven damask and you’ll find the negative image with the colors reversed.
Paisley
Though paisley originated in Persia, where it had traditionally been hand-loomed using only two colors of yarn, it really blossomed in Western Europe after the invention of the jacquard loom. Weavers in Paisley, Scotland, blew away the competition by using the new loom to produce the age-old fig-leaf pattern using five colors.
Though paisley originated in Persia, where it had traditionally been hand-loomed using only two colors of yarn, it really blossomed in Western Europe after the invention of the jacquard loom. Weavers in Paisley, Scotland, blew away the competition by using the new loom to produce the age-old fig-leaf pattern using five colors.
Brocade
Much like tapestry, brocade fabrics are thick, stiff and often colorful. Gold and silver threads are typically mixed into the palette, resulting in rich, luxurious textiles with a pronounced sheen. Viewing the reverse side of a brocade fabric is an education in itself: You’ll see where the fibers have been cut to create the design on the front.
Much like tapestry, brocade fabrics are thick, stiff and often colorful. Gold and silver threads are typically mixed into the palette, resulting in rich, luxurious textiles with a pronounced sheen. Viewing the reverse side of a brocade fabric is an education in itself: You’ll see where the fibers have been cut to create the design on the front.
Printed Damask
Today, traditional damask patterns are printed on what we call “greige goods,” which is essentially a plain, undyed base fabric like a raw cotton duck or canvas. Working in a fabric showroom, I see the shock on customers’ faces when they see the price of some printed fabrics: A simple damask with a single color featured on greige goods need not cost much, but when you see 14 different colors sampled on the selvedge of a beautiful Ralph Lauren floral, resist the urge to yell, “But it’s just printed cotton!” Each color is printed and dyed separately, so the more colors you see in a fabric, the longer it took to fabricate and the pricier it’s likely to be.
More Textile Textbook: Meet Your Must-Have Synthetic Fabrics | Fall in Love With These Prints From Around the World | Get Ready to Be Wooed by Wovens
Today, traditional damask patterns are printed on what we call “greige goods,” which is essentially a plain, undyed base fabric like a raw cotton duck or canvas. Working in a fabric showroom, I see the shock on customers’ faces when they see the price of some printed fabrics: A simple damask with a single color featured on greige goods need not cost much, but when you see 14 different colors sampled on the selvedge of a beautiful Ralph Lauren floral, resist the urge to yell, “But it’s just printed cotton!” Each color is printed and dyed separately, so the more colors you see in a fabric, the longer it took to fabricate and the pricier it’s likely to be.
More Textile Textbook: Meet Your Must-Have Synthetic Fabrics | Fall in Love With These Prints From Around the World | Get Ready to Be Wooed by Wovens
What are you working on?
Related Products
Related Stories
Events
5 Trends in New Engineered Countertops and Surfaces for 2024
See the latest styles and features for quartz, porcelain and sintered stone showcased at the recent KBIS 2024 trade show
Full Story
Events
5 Trends to Watch From London’s 2024 Surface Design Show
Find out about new surface materials and products displayed at the annual trade event
Full Story
Events
5 New Trends in Flooring for 2024
By Julie Sheer
See the latest looks in luxury vinyl, engineered wood, porcelain, laminate and other products debuting this year
Full Story
Events
What’s New in Tile for 2024
By Julie Sheer
See 5 trends in new tile collections that debuted at The International Surface Event trade show in Las Vegas
Full Story
Kitchen Countertops
What Kitchen Countertop Colors Should You Choose?
By tidgboutique
Consider these popular colors and styles to get the look you want — no matter what material you use
Full Story
Events
7 Trends for Countertops and Other Surfaces in 2023
See the latest looks for engineered quartz, natural stone and other materials showcased at the KBIS 2023 trade show
Full Story
Floors
What’s New in Flooring for 2023
By Julie Sheer
See the trends in luxury vinyl, hardwood, and faux wood and stone flooring products debuting this year
Full Story
Events
What’s New in Tile for 2023
By Julie Sheer
Five trends in new tile collections were spotted at the recent International Surface Event 2023 trade show in Las Vegas
Full Story
Events
The Changing Face of Tile at Italy’s Cersaie 2022 Trade Fair
We saw muted tones, tactile surfaces, smaller formats and innovation at the international ceramics and bathroom show
Full Story
Kitchen Design
The Best Low-Maintenance Kitchen Finishes
By Sam Ferris
Cut down on cleaning time and repair costs by choosing these finishes for flooring, cabinets, countertops and more
Full Story
Fabrics make a home!
Very informative article about very beautiful fabrics!
Damask was taken up by British textile manufacturers in the industrial revolution but originated in Damascus, the capital of today's war-torn Syria but for centuries - millennia - a major trading city and from 100-200 ad a key point on the Silk Road. The old market in Damascus was still selling a wide variety of damask even a few years ago...