Wish List

Reply to: My kitchen is in progress. Sink is installed but no counter or faucet. I love how it looks. My cabinets are Medallion. I just couldn't do a fireclay sink. Not after reading stories here. Hopefully cast iron will hold up for us Here's a shot of the self rimming. Here's another pic. I don't think it will be a problem at all when the granite is installed. The DW will have a panel. Hopefully everything works together nicely. Supposedly we will have a finished house/kitchen in less than 3 weeks.

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Reply to: That was some of my concern...our dishwasher is going to the left of the sink. It will be a panel dishwasher. Was concerned there should be more cabinet meat showing. But is seems the consensus here is that it should be OK. I think the panel on the dishwasher will make it seem less apparent. The whitehaven is like a "mock" farmhouse sink in that the front has a self trimming feature, so the actual cut in the cabinet will be an inch from the side, and than the front covers up almost the entire front (33 inch cabinet covered by 32 11/16" apron front). It is not like the Rohl. Using the 33" sink in a 33" cabinet makes the support inside easier to install. Using a small sink one would need to build out the sides more so they fall under the sink. Below is a picture I found on Houzz showing the dishwasher next to a similar set up using overlay doors. Mine are inset.

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Reply to: We use the "Cinclips" system and it takes less than 5 minutes to install an undermount sink. Simply set it up to the sink lip and the other end against the cabinet and put in the screws. How simple is that? You will be in and out of that cabinet quick. No wait time either, just hookup the plumbing and sink is useable. By the way "captcave" Denatured alcohol or acetone in a spray bottle work excellent for cleanup of silicone. Watch the installation video by Cinclips on youtube. There are some great tips about sink installation in the video. Here is the quick 30 second video, shows how easy it is!

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Reply to: The ez bracket is easier because it holds the sink in place without the need for a clamp to get started. But you have to do a little critical measuring before installing it. Whereas with the HUSH, you can basically put it anywhere as long as it doesn't interfere with the drain. Put silicone on the flange before you tighten the HUSH, then tighten the HUSH, check reveals, then clean up the silicone that squeezes out. Mineral spirits or glass cleaner will help you with clean up.

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Reply to: I hope these pictures make this clear. Drill a hole through a 2x4 that spans the sink hole. Drop a bar clamp through the 2x4 hole and through the sink drain hole and the wire. Snug the bowl in place with the clamp and test the fit of the HUSH. The HUSH bolt should just start in the nut. With a nut driver in a screw gun (7/16"?), tighten the HUSH and adjust as required. When you're happy with the fit, loosen the HUSH and clamp, silicone the sink flange, tighten the clamp, check the reveal, then tighten the HUSH. Pull the clamp if it's in the way to finally tighten the HUSH. Check the sink for squeeze-out and you're done. No need to fool with the other fasteners; if you ever have to replace this bowl, you'll be glad they were never used.

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Reply to: Whether to use a Hercules Universal Sink Harness from BB Industries or a Sink Strap or two from Regent Stone Products depends on the position of the drain. You want enough room to get a strap behind a corner drain and you want to avoid the HUSH and a center drain having an argument. You'll get a Pete's Sink Mount Kit under any sink, but they cost 50 times as much as a HUSH, so save them for the heavies please.

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Reply to: I just looked up the Precis. You can easily install it with the HUSH. The draw-tight will meet in the center, no problem. My method is better than the manufacturer's: Push a wire through a clip and twist it. With the sink lying face down and compensating for the cabinet width, take a guess at how long the wire will be short of half way across the sink by 6" or so. Bend the wire back and install the other clip at the same distance as the other. Screw the wire-twisted clips to the cabinet sides; you'll have a loop on each side. Drill a 1" hole in a 2x4 that sits above the drain when the 2x4 spans the opening. Pass a pipe clamp through the 2x4 and through the sink drain opening. Clamp the sink in place. Check the wires for distance. If you're too long or too short despite the adjustments on the HUSH, pull the sink and shorten/lengthen the wires. Re-clamp the sink and tighten the HUSH. If it all looks good, loosen the HUSH and clamp, apply silicone around the sink flange, tighten the clamp and HUSH, check your reveals, pull the clamp and you're done.

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Reply to: I am doing a banquette for my tiny kitchen (actually had to sit in the sink base cabinet to take this picture.) My contractor had a great idea on storage: He said that most people don't use the storage when it has the hinged top (too much of a pain to remove cushions and move table.) He suggested adding long drawers! Karencon - Thanks for the idea on making cushions.

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Reply to: I see this is an old post, but since it got bumped up, I thought I'd share mine (I'm actually sharing my own pic from Houzz because it's easier than finding it on my computer!) We've done a lot of renovations to our house (including ripping the top off and putting it back on higher) but this is still one of my favorite changes. Before there was a 42-inch round table in that space that always stuck in front of the back door. I designed the banquette and had it built. A local upholsterer made the cushions and my very helpful mom made the pillows. The banquette has sliding doors for storage (I have to crawl under the table to get to them, but that's ok) and a "morgue drawer" on the end that we keep all the dog stuff in. And you'll be happy to know that after almost three years, I FINALLY found the right art for that wall and it should be arriving this week. [Eclectic Kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/eclectic-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2104)

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Reply to: This is one of my favs... Here are some others...sorry if I posted any repeats...

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Reply to: it all depends how they're built. with kids, I think it's a great addition. have you thought about doing it yourself? when my husband and I flipped a house for a relative, it had a small nook off the kitchen. we did and L shape bench, with a hinged top for storage, attached some beadboard panel w/trim and painted it white. Then I found one of those vintage round oak tables on craigslist for $15! refinished it and stuck it in the nook for a perfect fit. All told, the nook prob cost less $150. You can find someone to make you nice, custom fit cushions on Etsy. hundreds of ways to do them yourself and it's not that difficult. you can also use for the base. just add trim,,either the raw wood, or thepre-finished. check out this one used w/armless chairs and a tulip table. stand alone benches? these would be very comfortable

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Reply to: A window seat as a dining bench would look cozy too. Of course with a big table and some lighter chairs on the other side.

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Reply to: This is ours right after we built it. I have a mostly solid cushion cover, actually it has a blend of reds and greens and a bit of gold in the chenille -- I had intended to have a summer and winter cover but 4 years later, I haven't changed it! We sit here a lot, so the banquette is used all the time. I have maybe 6-7 pillows -- not as many as shown in the picture here -- which is plenty. Not everyone wants to sit with a pillow behind their back. And it's never neatly arranged like the other pictures shown! I do change the pillows quite a bit, seasonally or just when I get tired of them. I like having the solid cushion so I have more options with the pillows. We have a different, larger table top now (still with the same base) and different chairs that match our maple table top.

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Reply to: Just thought I'd throw out a picture of my banquette too as the measurements are similar to yours. I also did a 4-inch cushion, bringing the seat height up to almost 20 inches. I'm short and I wanted it to be a little higher. We have chair seating at our table too so I figured the taller people can sit there if they don't want to be up higher. Anyway, I did a combination of 18-inch and 14-inch pillows and pretty much just did enough of them to cover the whole back area of the banquette since it's just wall and window behind it. Best improvement we've made to our house yet ... you'll love it!

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Reply to: Wow you have been busy creating a lovely space to work. Good for you!! Do you have a family that needs the table? One of my kids and her partner decided they wanted a larger kitchen space so have an island that is movable. They live in a city and this works for them. very similar to theirs Here is a great houzz article. Ways to fit a table into a tiny kitchen Maybe a tiny tiny tiny table like this. maybe a concealed table on that wall like this..

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Reply to: I've had a corner banquette as my main dining table in my last two homes. If designed well, a banquette can be very comfortable.

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Reply to: Oh my gosh you’ve done so much! I’ll repeat my vote for the banquette over an island resist the temptation to oversize anything. Make sure you have decent clearance with the dishwasher open. Here is some banquette inspiration for you!

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Reply to: comfortable seating is about a few different components. bench is dealt with differently than chairs. Probably figure out if its the comfort of the seating thats the issue or something else...you have other seating areas that people gravitate to ?...is there a noise or disturbance that people dont like...is the view not great..if you want to fix it you probably can. Here are better chairs and the better padding on the bench seat and added to back....interior designer will help w adjusting it but be sure you want to....consider just the one longer bench and end the project at the corner instead of wrapping the corner..the curtain there is maybe an issue. You have a bench thats not attached? it could be repurposed ...abandon the banquette and place a table w chairs......the wall detail could stay .

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Reply to: Ours are Pella. We got three sets for our courtyard.

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Reply to: ydurant: You can put a 24" sink into a 24" cabinet easily if you strap it with a Hercules Universal Sink Harness (Braxton Bragg) or a Sink Strap (Regent Stone Products) instead of using the manufacturer-supplied clips. I enlarge, profile, and polish sink openings regularly and have never gotten a single complaint, so no drop-in is necessary.

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Reply to: We have always had the trash under the sink; the recycling lived in another room. For the reno, I was planning to use a separate 18" cab for a recycling pullout, and keep the trash under the sink; to make enough room for the 18 cab, however, I had to go down to a 27" sink cab. GW posters convinced me that a better use of space would be to use a 36" sink cab, and put both trash and recycling under that cab. To that end, I got a corner drain. The trash lives in front of the GD, and the recycling pull out will (eventually) go in the open space on the left. As far as getting nudged while at the sink, well, that happens to us, too. Rather than get annoyed, however, we have a saying: "Quit your b1tchin', it's the law of the kitchen!"

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Reply to: I think my sink cab is about 31-33-ish with a kraus 10" deep sink. Here's what the rollout under sink looks like. We get a lot of junk mail eg, catalogs, etc and since we can mix our recycle products, I just slide them down the side of trash cans. It's just two of us and dog. Admittedly, we do have another trashcan in a different part of kitchen (poor feng shui) but it's use is really nominal. (I think it's there in hopes that my SO will trash things instead of leaving on island.) A shed is a great idea. We struggle with the same issue of what to do about overflow. But my rear yard doesn't yet warrant others 'enjoying' the surroundings as yours does. ;). The posted wall photo looks like a bit of shady spot, yes? We may have to talk offline about the wall climber you've got there. Unfortunately,that project wont be on the horizon for a long while.

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Reply to: Here is my 30 in sink cabinet with farm sink, pullout trash and GD. My clean up sink is shaw 30in in a 30in cabinet. I was really keen to have a trash at each sink location. I used the same trash here and at my prep sink. It is the Rev-a-shelf door mounted stainless steel double bin (Model # 8-785-30-DM2SS). It is not too big and we wanted it that way as we prefer to empty trash frequently. I like stainless as I do not need to use a bag for the mixed recycle. The trash also has a foot pedal from Hafele. The GD is InSinkErator Evolution Pro Compact 3/4 HP Garbage Disposer We ran into a small issue about the GD fitting as my Shaw sink's drain offset was closer to the center than spec. My cabinet maker had put in a divider between the trash and the GD sections. I think this was to reinforce the base for the super heavy shaw sink. We had to notch a small square near the top to fit the wider part of the GD near the top. But it was a super minor mod done on site by the cabinet guys. For sinks where the drain is more offset, it should not be an issue at all.

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