Gardening Guides
How to Take Care of Your Newly Planted Garden
Set up new gardens for success in the critical first year after planting with expert tips from landscape pros on Houzz
The care you give a new garden in its first year, particularly in the first few weeks after planting, can be critical for setting up your young plants for long-term success. We asked three landscape experts on Houzz — Donald Pell, Mariane Wheatley-Miller and June Scott — to share some of their best practices for caring for new lawns, trees, hedges and more in the first year after planting.
If you’ve planted a new bed in summer, consistent watering is even more critical. “If we plant after late June, I ask the landscapers to install a temporary irrigation system on timers and slow-release watering bags [for] trees,” says landscape architect Mariane Wheatley-Miller of A.J. Miller Landscape Architecture in Syracuse, New York. She says these tactics increase the success rate of new plants for her clients.
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Monitor plants carefully and often. To catch any issues early on, keep a close watch on all newly planted areas of the garden. Note any signs of stress in plants (such as wilting, yellowing leaves, leaf drop or leaf burn) and any issues with irrigation (such as wet areas of soil or dry spots caused by clogged irrigation emitters). Pell advises clients to check irrigation systems daily for the first few weeks after planting.
Seeds and seedlings need an even closer eye as they grow. Plan to water them once or twice a day for the first week or two. Protect seeds and seedling from birds with a cover or netting.
Protect young plants from extreme weather. Keep in mind that young plants may need extra protection from inclement weather, such as frost or a heat wave. Be ready to provide protection in the form of frost blankets or shade cloths.
Seeds and seedlings need an even closer eye as they grow. Plan to water them once or twice a day for the first week or two. Protect seeds and seedling from birds with a cover or netting.
Protect young plants from extreme weather. Keep in mind that young plants may need extra protection from inclement weather, such as frost or a heat wave. Be ready to provide protection in the form of frost blankets or shade cloths.
Watering
Once plants pass the critical first few weeks after planting, they’ll be less susceptible to drying out quickly. You can begin tapering off the frequency of irrigation. Your watering schedule will depend on your climate, soil and plant type, so it’s best to ask a landscape professional for advice.
Even if you have an automatic irrigation system set up by a pro, Pell advises to still keep a close eye on how your plants are doing to see if anything is getting over- or underwatered. Automated irrigation systems “give people a false sense of security,” he says. If you’re using an automatic system, set the timer but plan to monitor the system every time it runs until the plants become established (about two to three months).
Once plants pass the critical first few weeks after planting, they’ll be less susceptible to drying out quickly. You can begin tapering off the frequency of irrigation. Your watering schedule will depend on your climate, soil and plant type, so it’s best to ask a landscape professional for advice.
Even if you have an automatic irrigation system set up by a pro, Pell advises to still keep a close eye on how your plants are doing to see if anything is getting over- or underwatered. Automated irrigation systems “give people a false sense of security,” he says. If you’re using an automatic system, set the timer but plan to monitor the system every time it runs until the plants become established (about two to three months).
In the gardens he designs in Pennsylvania, Pell favors using a mix of native plants and tough flowering perennials and grasses, and sets the watering schedule accordingly. “Generally, the plants I work with in mesic soils like to be saturated and left then to dry out a bit for a few days,” he says. “I like roots to chase the water and push into the native soils.” Once plants are past their most vulnerable stage, “the worst thing you can do is just give a small amount of water every day. Saturate and let dry out,” Pell says.
Weeding
Newly planted gardens can be more susceptible to weed spikes for a few reasons. First, gaps left between plants that have been properly spaced, combined with frequent irrigation, makes for a cultivation area for weeds. Second, if you’ve dug into ground that has been compacted or hasn’t been turned over in some time, you might have unearthed weed seeds that were lying dormant.
Landscape architect June Scott of June Scott Design in Pasadena, California, recommends staying on top of weeds from day one. “Be vigilant in pulling weeds, especially when your plants are young, as weeds compete for both water and nutrients in the soil,” she says. She advises hand-weeding rather than using herbicides, which can damage surrounding plants, harm beneficial soil organisms and run off into waterways.
To prevent weeds from popping up again and again, make sure you get the roots. “There are some weeds that will take aggressive digging to ensure the entire root mass is removed,” Pell says. “Bindweed is one of the main culprits.”
Natural Ways to Get Rid of Weeds in Your Garden
Newly planted gardens can be more susceptible to weed spikes for a few reasons. First, gaps left between plants that have been properly spaced, combined with frequent irrigation, makes for a cultivation area for weeds. Second, if you’ve dug into ground that has been compacted or hasn’t been turned over in some time, you might have unearthed weed seeds that were lying dormant.
Landscape architect June Scott of June Scott Design in Pasadena, California, recommends staying on top of weeds from day one. “Be vigilant in pulling weeds, especially when your plants are young, as weeds compete for both water and nutrients in the soil,” she says. She advises hand-weeding rather than using herbicides, which can damage surrounding plants, harm beneficial soil organisms and run off into waterways.
To prevent weeds from popping up again and again, make sure you get the roots. “There are some weeds that will take aggressive digging to ensure the entire root mass is removed,” Pell says. “Bindweed is one of the main culprits.”
Natural Ways to Get Rid of Weeds in Your Garden
All the landscape experts we interviewed agree that you should follow correct spacing guidelines for individual plants, but to help prevent weed growth, you should avoid leaving excessive gaps. Choosing fuller plants and those that form mats can also help to suppress weeds. “Plant close enough to avoid huge, empty spaces,” Wheatley-Miller says. In this New York garden, for example, a mix of perennials and mat-forming ground covers leaves little room for weed growth.
Pell agrees with this strategy. “I look for plants and plant combinations that can become dense enough to reduce weeding. [This] can make the garden read as very healthy and luxurious,” he says.
Pell agrees with this strategy. “I look for plants and plant combinations that can become dense enough to reduce weeding. [This] can make the garden read as very healthy and luxurious,” he says.
Mulching
Adding a layer of mulch on top of planting beds can have a number of advantages in young gardens. Mulch helps suppress weeds in the gaps between young plants as they grow in, keeps the soil cool while plants fill in and prevents water loss from evaporation.
Cover bare spots when plants are establishing. “During a garden’s establishment period, we advocate the use of a shredded wood mulch for most of our gardens. The only exception might be if the garden were in a severely high-fire-risk area,” says Scott, who works primarily in Southern California. (She also notes that shredded bark mulch breaks down much more easily than larger wood chips, benefiting the soil more readily.)
Once plants fill in, she says, there’s less need for mulch. “My planting schemes tend to be on the fuller side, where plants cover the ground and provide shade for roots [so there’s less need for mulch]. But if there are bare spots, I make sure they are mulched with bark chips or gravel,” the designer says.
Avoid mulch “volcanoes.” Wheatley-Miller says overmulching around trees is a common mistake she sees in maintenance, and it can lead to rot. “I see trees mulched up, the bark covering the natural tree flare, and every year [clients] add to the ‘volcano.’” Instead, when mulching around trees and large shrubs, she says, keep the mulch away from touching the trunk and hold off on topping up the mulch each year.
Learn more about mulch and how to choose the right kind for your garden
Adding a layer of mulch on top of planting beds can have a number of advantages in young gardens. Mulch helps suppress weeds in the gaps between young plants as they grow in, keeps the soil cool while plants fill in and prevents water loss from evaporation.
Cover bare spots when plants are establishing. “During a garden’s establishment period, we advocate the use of a shredded wood mulch for most of our gardens. The only exception might be if the garden were in a severely high-fire-risk area,” says Scott, who works primarily in Southern California. (She also notes that shredded bark mulch breaks down much more easily than larger wood chips, benefiting the soil more readily.)
Once plants fill in, she says, there’s less need for mulch. “My planting schemes tend to be on the fuller side, where plants cover the ground and provide shade for roots [so there’s less need for mulch]. But if there are bare spots, I make sure they are mulched with bark chips or gravel,” the designer says.
Avoid mulch “volcanoes.” Wheatley-Miller says overmulching around trees is a common mistake she sees in maintenance, and it can lead to rot. “I see trees mulched up, the bark covering the natural tree flare, and every year [clients] add to the ‘volcano.’” Instead, when mulching around trees and large shrubs, she says, keep the mulch away from touching the trunk and hold off on topping up the mulch each year.
Learn more about mulch and how to choose the right kind for your garden
New Lawns
How you’ve planted a new lawn — whether from seed, rolls of sod or grass plugs — will dictate what type of care the lawn needs for the first few weeks after planting. If you’re choosing among these options for a new lawn, Wheatley-Miller notes that seeding is the cheapest.
Planted from seed. Lawns planted from seed require consistently moist soil to germinate the seeds and for grass seedlings to establish. Water morning and evening for the first few weeks, then gradually taper off to twice a week and then to about once a week, depending on your climate.
Sod rolls and hydroseeding. For hilly sites where runoff is an issue, Wheatley-Miller recommends using either sod rolls or a seeding method called hydroseeding. Hydroseeding is a process by which dry lawn seed is mixed with a slurry of water, mulch and a type of glue-based coagulant and is sprayed onto a prepared site. The mixture “sticks” to the ground, so lawn seeds germinate more quickly, and the mulch helps prevent the seeds from drying out.
Lawns started from sod should be rolled onto damp soil and watered well after they’re in place. Water every morning for the first week, two to three times a week for the second week, then taper off to once a week or so, depending on your climate.
How you’ve planted a new lawn — whether from seed, rolls of sod or grass plugs — will dictate what type of care the lawn needs for the first few weeks after planting. If you’re choosing among these options for a new lawn, Wheatley-Miller notes that seeding is the cheapest.
Planted from seed. Lawns planted from seed require consistently moist soil to germinate the seeds and for grass seedlings to establish. Water morning and evening for the first few weeks, then gradually taper off to twice a week and then to about once a week, depending on your climate.
Sod rolls and hydroseeding. For hilly sites where runoff is an issue, Wheatley-Miller recommends using either sod rolls or a seeding method called hydroseeding. Hydroseeding is a process by which dry lawn seed is mixed with a slurry of water, mulch and a type of glue-based coagulant and is sprayed onto a prepared site. The mixture “sticks” to the ground, so lawn seeds germinate more quickly, and the mulch helps prevent the seeds from drying out.
Lawns started from sod should be rolled onto damp soil and watered well after they’re in place. Water every morning for the first week, two to three times a week for the second week, then taper off to once a week or so, depending on your climate.
Grass plugs. Plugs, often used for no-mow and meadow-style lawns, also need consistent moisture as their roots establish, but they’re less vulnerable than seeds. Water morning and evening for the first few weeks, then taper off to once a week or less, depending on your climate and grass type.
Fertilizing and soil health. Pell advises against fertilizing lawns with off-the-shelf materials. He says too often he sees overfertilizing, which can lead to harming the grass and beneficial microbial organisms in the soil below it. “Focus on soil quality. Hire an agronomist to do a soil test,” he says. Address issues with compaction before planting, and handle nutrient deficiencies with organic amendments such as humates and compost tea.
Mowing. Wheatley-Miller recommends allowing grass to grow longer between mowings in the summer. “We ask that the [lawn mower] blades be raised to 3 inches high in the summer,” she says. She also recommends skipping mowing during heat waves to avoid stressing the lawn.
Fertilizing and soil health. Pell advises against fertilizing lawns with off-the-shelf materials. He says too often he sees overfertilizing, which can lead to harming the grass and beneficial microbial organisms in the soil below it. “Focus on soil quality. Hire an agronomist to do a soil test,” he says. Address issues with compaction before planting, and handle nutrient deficiencies with organic amendments such as humates and compost tea.
Mowing. Wheatley-Miller recommends allowing grass to grow longer between mowings in the summer. “We ask that the [lawn mower] blades be raised to 3 inches high in the summer,” she says. She also recommends skipping mowing during heat waves to avoid stressing the lawn.
Trees
In general, it’s best to plant trees when they’re dormant and the weather is cool. Depending on your climate, this window is in fall, winter (for mild climates) and early spring. After planting, young trees need consistent deep watering for the first few months.
Watering. Pell recommends hand-watering young trees weekly until you get through the first summer, then tapering off watering in late fall. “After the first year, I wouldn’t irrigate unless you hit a significant drought or are in an arid region,” he says. You can also use an automated watering system, but it needs to be set for a longer time than for other garden areas to provide a good soak for the tree. He says it’s often easier to “just run a hose and saturate the entire root ball.”
In general, it’s best to plant trees when they’re dormant and the weather is cool. Depending on your climate, this window is in fall, winter (for mild climates) and early spring. After planting, young trees need consistent deep watering for the first few months.
Watering. Pell recommends hand-watering young trees weekly until you get through the first summer, then tapering off watering in late fall. “After the first year, I wouldn’t irrigate unless you hit a significant drought or are in an arid region,” he says. You can also use an automated watering system, but it needs to be set for a longer time than for other garden areas to provide a good soak for the tree. He says it’s often easier to “just run a hose and saturate the entire root ball.”
Staking. Young trees can be staked in windy, exposed sites to help them grow straight, but stakes should be removed once they’re no longer needed. “Most young trees should have their stakes removed after one to two years,” Scott says. “Neglecting this can risk stake ties’ girdling a trunk or compromising the development of a sturdy trunk.”
To test if a tree stake in your garden can be removed, Scott recommends taking hold of the tree trunk, moving it gently but firmly, and seeing if the root ball moves. “No movement means you no longer need the stake,” she says.
To test if a tree stake in your garden can be removed, Scott recommends taking hold of the tree trunk, moving it gently but firmly, and seeing if the root ball moves. “No movement means you no longer need the stake,” she says.
Shrubs and Hedges
Watering. As with all other plants in a newly planted garden, shrubs need consistent moisture to get established. Soak the soil and let it dry out between waterings to promote strong root growth. Any additional care shrubs may need during the first few years depends on the type of plant and how it’s used in the design. Some may require staking to grow up into an even hedge, while others may benefit from some trimming to train them into a desired shape.
Trimming and pruning. All three experts we interviewed advise against overtrimming shrubs, which can stress the plant and lead to issues with disease and die-back. “We have a culture here that overtrims shrubs, because people buy a shrub that is too large for the area, then trim the shrub to the size they want,” Wheatley-Miller says. Instead, she advises planting appropriately sized shrubs for your desired use — such as dwarf hybrids for edging and topiary — and then gently trimming to shape them.
Watering. As with all other plants in a newly planted garden, shrubs need consistent moisture to get established. Soak the soil and let it dry out between waterings to promote strong root growth. Any additional care shrubs may need during the first few years depends on the type of plant and how it’s used in the design. Some may require staking to grow up into an even hedge, while others may benefit from some trimming to train them into a desired shape.
Trimming and pruning. All three experts we interviewed advise against overtrimming shrubs, which can stress the plant and lead to issues with disease and die-back. “We have a culture here that overtrims shrubs, because people buy a shrub that is too large for the area, then trim the shrub to the size they want,” Wheatley-Miller says. Instead, she advises planting appropriately sized shrubs for your desired use — such as dwarf hybrids for edging and topiary — and then gently trimming to shape them.
Pell adds that how you trim makes a big difference in plant health. “You can’t just shear a shrub densely and not expect a poor outcome,” he says. “If you have hedges to shear, you must go back in with a hand pruner and open up the plant to allow airflow through the plant.” This can help prevent fungal diseases and certain insects from taking up residence in overly dense plants.
Scott recommends the following care schedule: “In spring and summer, you can pinch new growth to encourage more dense, full plants. Early in winter — because new growth starts early in the year in our [Southern California] climate — cut back anything growing too densely. Although you will not need to prune heavily, prune to remove dead leaves and branches or to correct the shape.”
When Should You Prune Your Trees and Shrubs?
Scott recommends the following care schedule: “In spring and summer, you can pinch new growth to encourage more dense, full plants. Early in winter — because new growth starts early in the year in our [Southern California] climate — cut back anything growing too densely. Although you will not need to prune heavily, prune to remove dead leaves and branches or to correct the shape.”
When Should You Prune Your Trees and Shrubs?
Perennials
Perennial plants don’t generally require special care in the first year after planting, apart from consistent watering while they get established and staking for any top-heavy flower spikes, if necessary. In the years to come, you’ll need to divide clumps of perennials or replace those that are more short-lived.
Scott recommends staying on top of deadheading flowers early in the season to signal the plants to keep producing blooms. Later on in the season, you may choose to leave the spent flowers to form seeds — providing food for birds and late-season interest through decorative seed heads and seedpods.
In fall, you may choose to cut perennials back to about 6 inches tall or leave them to naturally die back. Pell recommends skipping the fall cutback and leaving dried ornamental grasses long to provide interest through winter. “It’s a beautiful effect when they’re dusted with snow,” he adds.
Perennial plants don’t generally require special care in the first year after planting, apart from consistent watering while they get established and staking for any top-heavy flower spikes, if necessary. In the years to come, you’ll need to divide clumps of perennials or replace those that are more short-lived.
Scott recommends staying on top of deadheading flowers early in the season to signal the plants to keep producing blooms. Later on in the season, you may choose to leave the spent flowers to form seeds — providing food for birds and late-season interest through decorative seed heads and seedpods.
In fall, you may choose to cut perennials back to about 6 inches tall or leave them to naturally die back. Pell recommends skipping the fall cutback and leaving dried ornamental grasses long to provide interest through winter. “It’s a beautiful effect when they’re dusted with snow,” he adds.
Drought-Tolerant Plants
Scott often uses natives and low-water plantings in her Southern California designs. “While many of the plants we specify are drought-tolerant, they will need supplemental irrigation at least during the first couple of years, often longer,” she says.
She advises watering newly planted drought-tolerant plants about every three days for the first month after planting, allowing the ground to dry out between waterings. After a month, Scott says, switch to irrigating one to two times per week and continue this schedule through the first spring and summer. After this point, drought-tolerant natives and other low-water plants can be weaned off supplemental irrigation but will look lusher with occasional water.
Scott often uses natives and low-water plantings in her Southern California designs. “While many of the plants we specify are drought-tolerant, they will need supplemental irrigation at least during the first couple of years, often longer,” she says.
She advises watering newly planted drought-tolerant plants about every three days for the first month after planting, allowing the ground to dry out between waterings. After a month, Scott says, switch to irrigating one to two times per week and continue this schedule through the first spring and summer. After this point, drought-tolerant natives and other low-water plants can be weaned off supplemental irrigation but will look lusher with occasional water.
First Winter
Young plants can be more vulnerable to damage during their first winter. Pell recommends using the plant’s own natural mechanisms for winter protection. “Leaving leaves on plants [rather than cutting back perennials in fall] or shredded in the garden can greatly help your plants overwinter,” he says. Fallen leaves, he adds, tend to be the perfect mulch for plants. You can leave them where they fall under a shrub, or shred leaves with a lawn mower and spread them on perennial beds to help insulate plant crowns or bulbs below the soil.
Wheatley-Miller adds that she may advise clients to spray evergreens with Wilt Pruf, a biodegradable antidessicant, to prevent the leaves from drying out in windy or exposed sites. For extra protection, sometimes she advises clients to cover plants with burlap or beds with straw. She also recommends being mindful of ice falling from roofs, which can damage foundation plants.
Young plants can be more vulnerable to damage during their first winter. Pell recommends using the plant’s own natural mechanisms for winter protection. “Leaving leaves on plants [rather than cutting back perennials in fall] or shredded in the garden can greatly help your plants overwinter,” he says. Fallen leaves, he adds, tend to be the perfect mulch for plants. You can leave them where they fall under a shrub, or shred leaves with a lawn mower and spread them on perennial beds to help insulate plant crowns or bulbs below the soil.
Wheatley-Miller adds that she may advise clients to spray evergreens with Wilt Pruf, a biodegradable antidessicant, to prevent the leaves from drying out in windy or exposed sites. For extra protection, sometimes she advises clients to cover plants with burlap or beds with straw. She also recommends being mindful of ice falling from roofs, which can damage foundation plants.
Seeds and seedlings are the most vulnerable to drying out quickly, but all young plants should be watched carefully in the first weeks after planting. “Plants need to be nursed to acclimate,” says Donald Pell, principal designer at Donald Pell Gardens in Phoenixville, Pennsylvania. “Gardens need to be monitored routinely early on to help catch stress that can occur in the acclimation period. Often I see overwatering and equally underwatering.”
Water consistently. All plants will need to be watered well just after planting and then consistently for the first few weeks of growth. Afterward, water needs vary by plant; some prefer moister or drier soil. Ask your landscape professional for a care schedule for the first few weeks.