Travel Guide: New Orleans for Design Lovers
Experience the city's energetic rebirth layered with centuries of history, seen in its architecture, museums, restaurants and more
These days New Orleanians describe their lives using the terms "pre-Katrina" and "post-Katrina." The devastating hurricane and its aftermath are still felt nearly eight years later. But since post-Katrina New Orleans has shed its storm-sacked facades, a canvas of design opportunity has taken root. There's a new buzz in the city, and signs of real recovery are showing in repopulated neighborhoods where rebuilt and renovated homes in both traditional and contemporary styles are springing up.
And the energy has certainly spread outside the city's borders. The city had the second-highest number of visitors in its history in 2012. The record before that was in 2004, the year before Katrina hit.
The resilient city has endured many hardships over its past 300 years, but that's what gives it a uniqueness revered around the world. As the celebrated birthplace of jazz and dozens of culinary specialties — gumbo and the po' boy, to name two — what has emerged is an extreme mix of ethnicities nestled between the largest saltwater lake and the largest river system in North America. If you plan to visit New Orleans — pronounced "new OR-luhns," not "new or-LEENS" or "new or-le-ANS" or "NAW-lins" — the following design-minded destinations will help peel back the storied layers of its history.
And the energy has certainly spread outside the city's borders. The city had the second-highest number of visitors in its history in 2012. The record before that was in 2004, the year before Katrina hit.
The resilient city has endured many hardships over its past 300 years, but that's what gives it a uniqueness revered around the world. As the celebrated birthplace of jazz and dozens of culinary specialties — gumbo and the po' boy, to name two — what has emerged is an extreme mix of ethnicities nestled between the largest saltwater lake and the largest river system in North America. If you plan to visit New Orleans — pronounced "new OR-luhns," not "new or-LEENS" or "new or-le-ANS" or "NAW-lins" — the following design-minded destinations will help peel back the storied layers of its history.
National World War II Museum
Location: 945 Magazine St.
Cost: Adults, $22; seniors, $19; grades K through 12 and those with a military ID, $13
Devote a few hours to the National World War II Museum, on the edge of downtown's Warehouse District. Voorsanger Architects of New York designed this new addition — The Freedom Pavilion; it's an impressive contemporary complex with a 4-D theater, restored pieces, interactive exhibits and historical World War II–era machines.
More info: National World War II Museum
Location: 945 Magazine St.
Cost: Adults, $22; seniors, $19; grades K through 12 and those with a military ID, $13
Devote a few hours to the National World War II Museum, on the edge of downtown's Warehouse District. Voorsanger Architects of New York designed this new addition — The Freedom Pavilion; it's an impressive contemporary complex with a 4-D theater, restored pieces, interactive exhibits and historical World War II–era machines.
More info: National World War II Museum
The Freedom Pavilion is a 100-foot-high space with multiple mezzanine levels. Fully restored Boeing airplanes with engines and mannequin pilots hang from above.
The uppermost mezzanines provide this skyline view and a sneak peak at the expansion of the museum — a $300 million project expected to be completed in 2015.
New Orleans Museum of Art
Location: 1 Collins Diboll Circle
Cost: Adults, $10; seniors, $8; active military and students with ID, $8; children ages 7 to 17, $6; age 6 and under, free
Noteworthy: Free admission on Wednesdays
While the artwork inside is a definite must to check out, the City Park outside is a destination all its own. It's the second largest urban park in the U.S., after New York City's Central Park. Take a ride in an authentic Venetian gondola around the tributaries and waterways.
More info: New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park
Location: 1 Collins Diboll Circle
Cost: Adults, $10; seniors, $8; active military and students with ID, $8; children ages 7 to 17, $6; age 6 and under, free
Noteworthy: Free admission on Wednesdays
While the artwork inside is a definite must to check out, the City Park outside is a destination all its own. It's the second largest urban park in the U.S., after New York City's Central Park. Take a ride in an authentic Venetian gondola around the tributaries and waterways.
More info: New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park
A free walk through the sculpture garden outside the museum is also recommended.
Must-Dos
Royal Street: A center for art and historical French Quarter culture one block parallel to Bourbon Street
Location: French Quarter
Noteworthy: The street is full of galleries, antiques shops and Spanish architecture
Throughout the French Quarter, historic gallery houses like the one shown here, with Spanish wrought iron accents, date back to shortly after the 1788 fire. Since the Spanish were ruling at the time, these structures made of adobe brick and with flat roofs replaced the common pitched roofs and wooden structures of the French style.
More info: Royal Street, French Market
Royal Street: A center for art and historical French Quarter culture one block parallel to Bourbon Street
Location: French Quarter
Noteworthy: The street is full of galleries, antiques shops and Spanish architecture
Throughout the French Quarter, historic gallery houses like the one shown here, with Spanish wrought iron accents, date back to shortly after the 1788 fire. Since the Spanish were ruling at the time, these structures made of adobe brick and with flat roofs replaced the common pitched roofs and wooden structures of the French style.
More info: Royal Street, French Market
Along Royal Street you'll find a bustling art scene featuring many styles, with work from local and international artists. Art by Francoise Gilot, a former mistress of Pablo Picasso who was also the mother of two of his four children, fills the Vincent Mann Gallery. Gilot's work spans many decades, and Picasso's influence on her is undeniable.
The Galerie D'Art Francais is also worth a stop.
More info: Vincent Mann Gallery, Galerie D'Art Francais
The Galerie D'Art Francais is also worth a stop.
More info: Vincent Mann Gallery, Galerie D'Art Francais
You could spend all day roaming the French Quarter's antiques shops — especially if you're a fan of antiques from the Louis XIV era.
And you're likely to get famished, so grab a fried shrimp po' boy at Central Grocery or some jambalaya or etouffee at Coop's Place on Decatur.
More info: Central Grocery, Coop's Place
And you're likely to get famished, so grab a fried shrimp po' boy at Central Grocery or some jambalaya or etouffee at Coop's Place on Decatur.
More info: Central Grocery, Coop's Place
Frenchman Street: A down-tempo nighttime destination with a local crowd and live music
Location: Faubourg Marigny neighborhood
Noteworthy: No cover charge, and in New Orleans you're welcome to take your drink with you outside in a "go cup."
For a more relaxing atmosphere than the mania and exhaustion you'll experience on Bourbon Street at night, Frenchman Street in the nearby Marigny (pronounced "MARE-uhn-nee) neighborhood is the place to go. Brass bands and blues bands abound.
And when you're partying like a local, it's recommended that you drink like one, too. Abita Amber is the most popular beer, but other favorites include NOLA and Covington Strawberry.
Location: Faubourg Marigny neighborhood
Noteworthy: No cover charge, and in New Orleans you're welcome to take your drink with you outside in a "go cup."
For a more relaxing atmosphere than the mania and exhaustion you'll experience on Bourbon Street at night, Frenchman Street in the nearby Marigny (pronounced "MARE-uhn-nee) neighborhood is the place to go. Brass bands and blues bands abound.
And when you're partying like a local, it's recommended that you drink like one, too. Abita Amber is the most popular beer, but other favorites include NOLA and Covington Strawberry.
A crowd gathers at twilight on Frenchman Street for an art walk adjacent to the Spotted Cat Music Club, which is a jazz and blues music venue in the heart of the neighborhood.
More info: Spotted Cat Music Club
More info: Spotted Cat Music Club
Must-Stays
Hotel Monteleone
Location: 214 Royal St.
Cost: From $169 a night
Noteworthy: The hotel offers Author Suites, dedicated to famous American writers from the South who have either stayed at the hotel, written about the hotel or both.
Ernest Hemingway stayed at the Hotel Monteleone, as did other notable celebrities who now have suites named after them, including Truman Capote, Tennessee Williams, Eudora Welty and William Faulkner. The hotel is in the heart of the French Quarter, so it's ideal as a base from which to explore the city.
The building was originally constructed in 1886 in Beaux-Arts style; it has undergone many expansions since then, the most recent of which was in 1964. Climb to the top for a rooftop pool and bar, as well as some fantastic views of the French Quarter and the city.
More info: Hotel Monteleone
Hotel Monteleone
Location: 214 Royal St.
Cost: From $169 a night
Noteworthy: The hotel offers Author Suites, dedicated to famous American writers from the South who have either stayed at the hotel, written about the hotel or both.
Ernest Hemingway stayed at the Hotel Monteleone, as did other notable celebrities who now have suites named after them, including Truman Capote, Tennessee Williams, Eudora Welty and William Faulkner. The hotel is in the heart of the French Quarter, so it's ideal as a base from which to explore the city.
The building was originally constructed in 1886 in Beaux-Arts style; it has undergone many expansions since then, the most recent of which was in 1964. Climb to the top for a rooftop pool and bar, as well as some fantastic views of the French Quarter and the city.
More info: Hotel Monteleone
Hemingway mentioned the Monteleone's famous Carousel Bar and Lounge, which rotates slowly around the bar staff in the center, in his short story The Night Before Battle. A pianist and trumpeter provide live jazz nightly from behind the bar.
Tip: Ask for a Sazerac, a whiskey cocktail that originated in the French Quarter at the Sazerac House.
More info: Carousel Bar and Lounge
Tip: Ask for a Sazerac, a whiskey cocktail that originated in the French Quarter at the Sazerac House.
More info: Carousel Bar and Lounge
W French Quarter
Location: 316 Chartres St.
Cost: From $199 a night
Located on Chartres Street, just blocks from Jackson Square, the W has the shell of a traditional Spanish adobe brick structure with contemporary flair inside. You can have a cocktail in the courtyard, which is a great hangout for anyone coming in off the street.
Since the French Quarter is known for its historic style, the interior of the W is a welcome visual treat of contemporary sensibility. Here French Quarter shutters remain but take on a whole new aesthetic paired with the room's graphic features.
More info: W French Quarter
Location: 316 Chartres St.
Cost: From $199 a night
Located on Chartres Street, just blocks from Jackson Square, the W has the shell of a traditional Spanish adobe brick structure with contemporary flair inside. You can have a cocktail in the courtyard, which is a great hangout for anyone coming in off the street.
Since the French Quarter is known for its historic style, the interior of the W is a welcome visual treat of contemporary sensibility. Here French Quarter shutters remain but take on a whole new aesthetic paired with the room's graphic features.
More info: W French Quarter
Sully Mansion
Location: 2631 Prytania St.
Cost: $124 to $242 a night
If you'd rather stay in a quieter neighborhood than the noisy French Quarter and downtown, a bed-and-breakfast in a historic Garden District mansion is probably more your style. The Sully Mansion, designed by influential New Orleans architect Thomas Sully in 1890, is a Queen Anne–style B and B that offers eight guest rooms. It's a block from the St. Charles Avenue streetcar line, which can get you to downtown and the French Quarter in a matter of minutes.
Sully, along with architect James Freret, is recognized as being responsible for much of the look of uptown New Orleans, and this is one of the few remaining Sully-designed homes in the city.
More info: Sully Mansion
Location: 2631 Prytania St.
Cost: $124 to $242 a night
If you'd rather stay in a quieter neighborhood than the noisy French Quarter and downtown, a bed-and-breakfast in a historic Garden District mansion is probably more your style. The Sully Mansion, designed by influential New Orleans architect Thomas Sully in 1890, is a Queen Anne–style B and B that offers eight guest rooms. It's a block from the St. Charles Avenue streetcar line, which can get you to downtown and the French Quarter in a matter of minutes.
Sully, along with architect James Freret, is recognized as being responsible for much of the look of uptown New Orleans, and this is one of the few remaining Sully-designed homes in the city.
More info: Sully Mansion
The mansion stairs are an elegant welcome. Proprieter Judy Fournier and Grace the dog are available to personally make your visit to New Orleans a memorable one.
Must-Eats
Merchant Contemporary Cafe and Wine Bar
Location: 800 Common St.
Noteworthy: In the Maritime, a historic downtown building
Start your day with a croissant and coffee at Merchant. Ammar Eloueini designed the space, which Wisznia Architecture and Development, located in the same building, developed.
Thomas Sully originally designed the building in 1893, but it's now a mixed-use structure with offices and contemporary residences above, similar to Beta, a modern shared workspace in New Orleans that Wisznia also developed.
More info: Merchant, Beta
Merchant Contemporary Cafe and Wine Bar
Location: 800 Common St.
Noteworthy: In the Maritime, a historic downtown building
Start your day with a croissant and coffee at Merchant. Ammar Eloueini designed the space, which Wisznia Architecture and Development, located in the same building, developed.
Thomas Sully originally designed the building in 1893, but it's now a mixed-use structure with offices and contemporary residences above, similar to Beta, a modern shared workspace in New Orleans that Wisznia also developed.
More info: Merchant, Beta
Some of my favorite pieces of architecture are those where the shell of a historic structure holds a contemporary space inside, as with Merchant café, shown here. The concept reveals the layers of history within the city, and is a beautiful strategy of giving a second life to infrastructure without mimicking the past or sacrificing quality.
Use Merchant's free Wi-Fi while munching on a signature crepe.
Use Merchant's free Wi-Fi while munching on a signature crepe.
Stein's Market and Deli
Location: 2207 Magazine St.
Cost: Muffuletta, $7; half-pound Quijote chorizo, $7
Noteworthy: Known for great sandwich meats and cheeses, but be sure to try the chorizo
If you've already had a po' boy, you'll want to try another original New Orleans sandwich. Created by Italian immigrants, the muffuletta ("muff-uh-LOTT-uh"), or muff for short, is both a word to describe the bread that the sandwich is served on and the name of the sandwich itself. A muffuletta is always filled with Italian salami, Italian ham, cheese (usually provolone), minced garlic and an olive salad, and is served cold. Stein's Market and Deli serves some of the best in town.
More info: Stein's Market and Deli
Location: 2207 Magazine St.
Cost: Muffuletta, $7; half-pound Quijote chorizo, $7
Noteworthy: Known for great sandwich meats and cheeses, but be sure to try the chorizo
If you've already had a po' boy, you'll want to try another original New Orleans sandwich. Created by Italian immigrants, the muffuletta ("muff-uh-LOTT-uh"), or muff for short, is both a word to describe the bread that the sandwich is served on and the name of the sandwich itself. A muffuletta is always filled with Italian salami, Italian ham, cheese (usually provolone), minced garlic and an olive salad, and is served cold. Stein's Market and Deli serves some of the best in town.
More info: Stein's Market and Deli
Rum House Carribean Taqueria
Location: Magazine Street (uptown/Garden District)
Head toward uptown on Magazine Street after the World War II museum and refuel with a bite to eat in the Garden District, between downtown and uptown. Rum House Carribean Taqueria is a personal favorite; try the Carribean Tacos.
This area also has some great boutiques that sell art, antiques and furniture. For the latter head to Modern Market, a modern and contemporary furniture store with Le Corbusier and Eames pieces. You'll find shops with craftsman-quality wood furniture as well in this stretch of the city.
More info: Rum House Carribean Taqueria, Modern Market
Location: Magazine Street (uptown/Garden District)
Head toward uptown on Magazine Street after the World War II museum and refuel with a bite to eat in the Garden District, between downtown and uptown. Rum House Carribean Taqueria is a personal favorite; try the Carribean Tacos.
This area also has some great boutiques that sell art, antiques and furniture. For the latter head to Modern Market, a modern and contemporary furniture store with Le Corbusier and Eames pieces. You'll find shops with craftsman-quality wood furniture as well in this stretch of the city.
More info: Rum House Carribean Taqueria, Modern Market
Tips and Etiquette
Let's be real; there's no getting around the fact that the names of foods, streets, people and a slew of other things in New Orleans are difficult to pronounce. Some words are just too different, such as Tchoupitoulas (pronounced "chop-uh-TOO-luhz") Street, etouffee ("ay-too-FAY") or maque choux ("mahk shoo").
Sometimes you might be better advised to just forget what you might know about French pronunciations. New Orleanians mispronounce French words seemingly on purpose despite their history; they're at odds with the French-speaking population in other parts of Louisiana. For example, locals pronounce Chartres as "charters"; they also pronounce the "T" in Carondelet and the "R" in Gravier.
Also, don't call the streetcar a trolley. And the median between the streets on the many French-style boulevards is called the neutral ground.
Tell us: What are your favorite design-minded places in New Orleans?
Let's be real; there's no getting around the fact that the names of foods, streets, people and a slew of other things in New Orleans are difficult to pronounce. Some words are just too different, such as Tchoupitoulas (pronounced "chop-uh-TOO-luhz") Street, etouffee ("ay-too-FAY") or maque choux ("mahk shoo").
Sometimes you might be better advised to just forget what you might know about French pronunciations. New Orleanians mispronounce French words seemingly on purpose despite their history; they're at odds with the French-speaking population in other parts of Louisiana. For example, locals pronounce Chartres as "charters"; they also pronounce the "T" in Carondelet and the "R" in Gravier.
Also, don't call the streetcar a trolley. And the median between the streets on the many French-style boulevards is called the neutral ground.
Tell us: What are your favorite design-minded places in New Orleans?
Jackson Square
Location: Along the Mississippi River on Decatur Street
Noteworthy: Across the street, the historic Cafe Du Monde is open 24 hours and sells powdered beignets, a deep-fried pastry that's ubiquitous in New Orleans.
Over the centuries this historic central square in the French Quarter neighborhood once held public executions of criminals; it now hosts regular art sales and live music events. The Saint Louis Cathedral across from Jackson Square is worth a visit. The design of Jackson Square mimics the Parisian Place de Vosges.
A mule-drawn carriage, like the one seen here, can take you on a guided tour of the area. The carriages line up along the Decatur Street side. Or pop into the French Quarter Visitor Center and join a ranger-lead tour along the riverfront beginning at 9:30 a.m.
More info: Jackson Square, Cafe Du Monde, Saint Louis Cathedral, French Quarter Visitor Center