---
title: "Linda — Kitchen & Bath Remodelers | Houzz"
canonical_html_url: https://www.houzz.com/professionals/kitchen-and-bath-remodelers/linda-pfvwus-pf~1040279660
markdown_url: https://www.houzz.com/md/professionals/pf~1040279660.md
entity_type: LocalBusiness
business_name: Linda
category: ["Kitchen & Bath Remodelers"]
image: https://st.hzcdn.com/fimgs/3bc3a9ba01d8940b_8299-w400-h400-b0-p0--.jpg
address: "Elgin, Illinois 60123, United States"
latitude: 42.0376
longitude: -88.3186
phone: ""
website: http://
rating: 0
review_count: 0
followers: 78
last_updated: 2026-11-08
---

# Linda

Original Houzz profile: [Linda](https://www.houzz.com/professionals/kitchen-and-bath-remodelers/linda-pfvwus-pf~1040279660)

## Professional summary

- **Primary category:** Kitchen & Bath Remodelers
- **Location:** Elgin, IL
- **Serves:** Elgin, South Elgin
- **Houzz rating:** 0.0 out of 5 (0 reviews)

## About

### Houzz Badges

- Star Houzzer
- Houzz Influencer
- 500 Ideabook Saves

### Areas Served

- Elgin
- South Elgin

## Business Details

| Field | Value |
| --- | --- |
| Business Name | Linda |
| Address | Elgin, Illinois 60123, United States |
| Website | http:// |
| Followers on Houzz | 78 |

## Contact

- **Houzz profile:** [Linda](https://www.houzz.com/professionals/kitchen-and-bath-remodelers/linda-pfvwus-pf~1040279660)
- **Website:** http://

## Selected projects

- [Bowen Court](https://www.houzz.com/hznb/projects/bowen-court-pj-vj~7609)
  - Location: Not specified
  - Photos: 3
  - Description: Low cost gut rehab of tiny vintage cottage bathroom and kitchen

[See all 1 project](https://www.houzz.com/professionals/kitchen-and-bath-remodelers/linda-pfvwus-pf~1040279660)

## Ideabooks

- [woodard master bath](https://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/74547119/list/woodard-master-bath) — 123 ideas
- [uploaded photos](https://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/81809354/list/uploaded-photos) — 20 ideas
- [outdoor ideas](https://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/1878380/list/outdoor-ideas) — 109 ideas
- [woodard](https://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/73335350/list/woodard) — 86 ideas
- [Porches and exterior details](https://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/7806597/list/porches-and-exterior-details) — 46 ideas
- [Spring street](https://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/34465746/list/spring-street) — 2 ideas
- [small bathrooms](https://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/6040993/list/small-bathrooms) — 26 ideas
- [kitchen for union street](https://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/6021733/list/kitchen-for-union-street) — 99 ideas
- [fireplaces](https://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/325091/list/fireplaces) — 14 ideas

[See all 9 ideabooks](https://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/users/lindylou)

## Community Q&A

**Q: wine rack next to fridge?** *(in Kitchens)*

I am not at all committed to this, but I wouldn't mind a place to store a few bottles of wine in my kitchen (most are in our cool laundry room). My question is whether the wine would get heated at all. The fridge will have side panels, and then there would be another panel for the wine rack, but would that area be slightly warmer in general? I was tempted to dismiss the idea out of hand, but I figured I might as well ask. If the panels would protect the wine from heat, it would actually be a good use of an awkward space.

A: What is it for...drinking or storing? Normal kitchens in average houses don't have an ideal spot for wine but that shouldn't deter you from having a spot for a couple bottles.

**Q: House is falling apart - poor soil?** *(in Home Repair)*

We have a 2 year old home. Since being built we've had problems (the builder is not working with us and we do have a lawyer). At this point, nearly all our door and window trim has separated at the corners and is coming off of the wall. We have 11 leaking windows. We've have siding and exterior masonry fall off. Our doors are sagging and are at an angle. We have over 70 drywall pops and have big vertical cracks in our drywall corners in our LL (ranch home) (much bigger than hairline) as well as some horizontal cracks (no diagonal cracks by doors or windows though). Both our 3-season room and our deck landing have heaved.
We are thinking this may be due to the soil but aren't sure. Not sure what else this could be. There is obviously poor workmanship and things not done properly or to code that an inspector found out but is it more than that?
I looked up (WI, Dane county) soil surveys from 2017 and our soil is Virgil Series soil. I've attached a definition of that and have attached a couple of photos. One shows the soil behind our house which looks like expansive soil. The other shows our deck footing after a short rainfall.

A: I doubt there is anything wrong with that soil and probably nothing wrong with the foundation either. The problem is probably not the right prep for that foundation. My guess is the soil was disturbed, not properly compacted and not allowed to settle over winter. I gave been told that in cold climates that excavation and grading should be done in the fall and concrete poured in the spring. Big production builders don't make money by waiting on nature so they attempt to  compact the dirt and just hope it all holds together long enough for the fallout to land after they have left. 

I don't know what to tell you other than good luck with this. The source of the problem should not matter from the homeowners view...The house isn't right and the builder shouldn't be pointing fingers at anyone except himself

**Q: Article about home renovations** *(in Home Decorating)*

Interesting article
https://www.curbed.com/2018/3/7/17087588/home-renovation-unnecessary-mcmansion-hell-wagner

A: A very interesting article; thanks for posting. I am currently finishing a renovation of a 1933 house where I didn't remove any walls. Houses of this era have separate rooms. That's the way they were designed and if I wanted a modern house I would buy a modern house. I like stained wood trim and real divided light windows so why would I change them out just so they would be new? New that would not be new in 20 years time and then I might need to replace them again. No thanks I will stick with the originals.

**Q: Shelves in a tight space next to a washer/dryer?** *(in Laundry Room)*

Hi, I want to put up a long shelf or two next to my washer/dryer to store detergents. I figured a shelf about 18-24" long and 6" wide would do here, and would seem to fit everything we wanted to. The problem is - the very tight space (only have about 7" of width to play with). What kind of shelf / mounting would you use in this space? Keep in mind that there could be a reason to pull out the machine in the future, so easily removable shelves are something we want to have. Also would prefer to not have to pull out the washer and dryer to install these. I have a right angle / 90 degree drill attachment to get the job done. Would you just use simple brackets?

A: How about a French cleat system? You could mount cleats to the side wall and have shelves that slide down over the cleats. No fasteners to take out, just pop the shelf up to remove

**Q: Basement Flooring Problem** *(in Design Dilemma)*

I have a quick question I am hoping someone can answer for me. I am preparing my basement floor to install some laminate flooring and now that I have removed the previous carpet and under pad I have come across a bit of an obstruction. Although the floor seems to be completely level, there seems to be what looks like an old pipe in one of the corners of the basement. It looks like it was an old pipe that was filled up with concrete. I'm not sure what this pipe was used for but I'm guessing it came from a previous bathroom or something. There is about a quarter of an inch of this pipe sticking out from the concrete floor so my question is how do I go about making it level with the floor? Should I use some kind of grinder or what would you recommend? 

Luckily this seems to be my only issue so if I can take care of this the rest of the job should be smooth sailing.

Thanks in advance!

A: It will only take a few minutes to grind it down.  Remember to wear safety glasses!

**Q: Is this sloppy tile work?** *(in Flooring)*

We had two small bathrooms remodeled and I feel like the tile work is sloppy at best.

They put a cubby in the shower. On one side of the cubby the bullnose tile goes overlaps in one direction and in the other the other direction. They put silicon rubber on one side to cover up the resulting gaps. Is silicon rubber ever used in tile work?

The thing that bugs me the most is the transition from the tile in the bathroom to the carpet in the hall/bedroom. I expected them to position the tile the right length so that the carpet could be neatly re-tucked against the tile. Instead they cut the tile about 3/8 inch short and uneven from one tile to the next. I complained about this and the contractor said we'll fix that. They fixed it by putting a metal strip against the carpet and then place to put grout in between the metal strip and the tile. See the picture below.

I can't remember seeing this ever, in any house I've been in. Not to be snobby, but our house is not a trailer, it's currently worth about $1M. We were expecting the work to look like it was done by a craftsman who cares about their work.

I'm completely unsatisfied with this transition.

Is the a common technique in carpet to tile transition?

Am I being unreasonable in my quality expectations?

Thanks,
Mike-

A: I have always been told that the transition between materials should be  under the door. When the door is closed, no part should show of the other flooring

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*Source: Houzz professional profile. Reflects the profile as of 2026-11-08.*