---
title: "SpecGuy — Architects & Building Designers | Houzz"
canonical_html_url: https://www.houzz.com/professionals/architects-and-building-designers/specguy-pfvwus-pf~1258651222
markdown_url: https://www.houzz.com/md/professionals/pf~1258651222.md
entity_type: LocalBusiness
business_name: SpecGuy
category: ["Architects"]
address: "Charlotte, North Carolina, United States"
latitude: 35.1287
longitude: -80.9338
phone: "(704) 367-1991"
website: http://www.specguy.com
rating: 0
review_count: 0
followers: 3
last_updated: 2026-09-08
---

# SpecGuy

Original Houzz profile: [SpecGuy](https://www.houzz.com/professionals/architects-and-building-designers/specguy-pfvwus-pf~1258651222)

## Professional summary

- **Primary category:** Architects
- **Location:** Charlotte, NC
- **Serves:** US and Canada
- **Houzz rating:** 0.0 out of 5 (0 reviews)

## About

Specifications and product consultant

### Services Provided

- Construction contract documents and building product manufacturer technical consulting

### Areas Served

- US and Canada

## Business Details

| Field | Value |
| --- | --- |
| Business Name | SpecGuy |
| Address | Charlotte, North Carolina, United States |
| Phone | (704) 367-1991 |
| Website | http://www.specguy.com |
| Followers on Houzz | 3 |

## Contact

- **Houzz profile:** [SpecGuy](https://www.houzz.com/professionals/architects-and-building-designers/specguy-pfvwus-pf~1258651222)
- **Website:** http://www.specguy.com
- **Phone:** (704) 367-1991

## Credentials

**Certifications & Awards**
- CSI Fellow; LEED AP; Certified Construction Specifier

## Ideabooks

- [garage](https://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/6797569/list/garage) — 8 ideas
- [exterior](https://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/6596648/list/exterior) — 7 ideas
- [greatroom](https://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/6586089/list/greatroom) — 1 idea
- [kitchens](https://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/6327235/list/kitchens) — 7 ideas
- [Fireplace](https://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/6424192/list/fireplace) — 1 idea
- [bedrooms](https://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/6343801/list/bedrooms) — 3 ideas
- [kazooguy's ideas](https://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/5999131/list/kazooguy-s-ideas) — 5 ideas

[See all 7 ideabooks](https://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/users/kazooguy)

## Community Q&A

**Q: Insulating a foundation and orientation** *(in Greenhouses & Garden Structures)*

I am new to this blog but have been lurking for a while and I love it. From reviewing other posts this is the information you need to answer my questions if you want to do so (and I would really appreciate it). I plan on building a greenhouse this spring, I am in Northern MI, Zone 4, frost line 42", want to use ONLY passive Solar if possible, the only exception I can see is heating mats and grow lights for seedlings in the spring. I have been researching online and interviewing many people and getting conflicting advice. This will be a 8 x 12 Easy Grow STC twinwall greenhouse. I plan on having one long wall face south, will add insulation to the north and parts of the east and west walls in addition to the north ceiling. I also plan on using water mass thermal storage along the north wall, then raised bed along the south wall and use the shelves on the north and south side for seedling and/or plants. HOW I PLAN TO USE THE GREENHOUSE: Goal 1- this year I grew greens all winter in low hoop houses so I know I can do it (but I got tired of getting on my knees, brushing off a ton of snow to get to my salad) so at a minimum I want to grow greens all winter where I can stand up to get to my greens - so as a minimum I will move my cold frames into the greenhouse. Goal 2 is to start seeds in the greenhouse in the spring, my wife does not like grow lights and such taking up space in our house. Goal 3 is to see what else I can grow all winter WITHOUT heating the greenhouse so passive solar is very important to me, if I can not accomplish goal three then I will only use the greenhouse in winter for my cold frames. Two main areas for questions. 
1\. Orientation. I have mainly seen that I should orient my greenhouse within 20 degrees of south (which I have come to figure out is not magnetic south but solar south which for me is 173 not 180)., however a LEED engineer told me point blank that I should orient South East NOT south. What do you think? 
2\. Insulating the foundation. I am leaning toward putting insulation down 42 inches to the frost line on all 4 sides but "everyone" tells me I do not need to go that far down (I have heard none, 1 foot and 2 feet). I have enjoyed "birdwillows" posts and I really hope for her feedback although I am not trying to keep 72 degrees in my greenhouse in the winter like she does. Do I need insulation under the greenhouse, how much do I need on the sides of the foundation? 
I can add insulation to the greenhouse (above ground) later but these two issues have to be handled correctly up front. 
THANK YOU for any assistance you can give me up front before I start!!!

A: I like Garth's sketch, too. It makes some intuitive sense, and isn't hard to pull off. Run an inch of insulation down to the footing; if you don't, it will try to settle despite your best efforts to adhere or fasten it to the foundation. Do 2 inches if you want, but the first inch will do 80 percent of the work. 
As for the orientation: Pay attention to the weather in your microclimate during the underheated part of the year. Look in particular at the times of day - you should be able to get nearby NOAA data to help. The "east of south" orientation may make sense particularly if you are down wind from one of the Great Lakes. There, the sky is more likely to be clear in the (cold) morning when you really need the heat, and more likely to be cloudy in the (somewhat warmer) afternoon when you do not need the heat as much. We found that there's a surprising amount of available solar energy during light cloud cover. We also found that the "come and go" periods of strong solar gain don't justify a lot of investment in additional thermal mass. Do experiment with aquaponics once you get under cover: you can get double duty out of the fish tank water as thermal storage. 
Try to find an old favorite book "Design with Climate" by Victor Olgyay. He and his brother had all of this figured out back in the days before the first great solar scare of the 1970s. 
I'll bet you'll be growing some gangbuster Swiss Chard next winter!

**Q: fire ant control without chemicals** *(in Florida Gardening)*

Is there any way to control fire ants with out chemicals??

A: I have read elsewhere (but have not yet tried) that applying used diatomaceous earth from a swimming pool DE filter around fire ant nests will make them move. If you have a DE filter, try recycling the contents the next time it's due to be renewed and see if it helps.

**Q: Feedback on SFG box** *(in Square Foot Gardening)*

Hey All, 
My name is Hal and I finally decided to take up SFG. I bought Mel's book and I am using his tips wherever I can. I recently went to Lowe's and purchased some lumber to build a 4' x 2' x 6" box for an SFG. I have posted some pictures below. I have some questions about waterproofing and stability.
The floor of the box is sureply pine I believe. I was wondering if it is appropriate to have that as a floor with no wateproofing mechanism in place. Will the wood floor take on water damage and lose strength and stability? If so, what have you guys done to ensure this does not happen.
I was also wondering about stability. The box is ultimately going to hold 4 cubic feet of Mel's mix. I plan on placing the box on top of some sort of folding table on my back porch. I was wondering if you guys think this is adequate for stability. If not, what do you suggest? 
Pics:

A: Look for FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) panels, which will tolerate continuous wetting and not rot. Treated plywood or any treated lumber is no good in close relation to food crops. And unfortunately your untreated plywood in constant contact with moist soil will delaminate over a year or so.

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*Source: Houzz professional profile. Reflects the profile as of 2026-09-08.*