--- title: "Sprucewood developements — General Contractors | Houzz" canonical_html_url: https://www.houzz.com/professionals/general-contractors/sprucewood-developements-pfvwus-pf~1511022302 markdown_url: https://www.houzz.com/md/professionals/pf~1511022302.md entity_type: LocalBusiness business_name: "Sprucewood developements" category: ["General Contractors"] image: https://st.hzcdn.com/fimgs/848347bd04a08567_6056-w400-h400-b0-p0--.jpg address: "timmins, Ontario P4R 0E2, Canada" latitude: 48.4724 longitude: -81.3962 phone: "(705) 274-3110" website: http:// rating: 1 review_count: 2 followers: 7 last_updated: 2026-09-07 --- # Sprucewood developements Original Houzz profile: [Sprucewood developements](https://www.houzz.com/professionals/general-contractors/sprucewood-developements-pfvwus-pf~1511022302) ## Professional summary - **Primary category:** General Contractors - **Location:** timmins, ON - **Serves:** Timmins and surrounding area including kapuskasing and temagami. - **Houzz rating:** 1.0 out of 5 (2 reviews) ## About ### Houzz Badges - Houzz Influencer - 25 Ideabook Saves After working and running my business in the muskoka area for almost 15 years, building or working on custom cottages with building budgets upwards of 4 million, I bring back to timmins a wealth knowledge that can only be obtained from working on projects of that type. We stick to what we know best and thats carpentry. ### Services Provided - ICF (insulated concrete forms) - preserved wood foundations framing - interior millwork - wood siding - cedar shakes - decks - stairs - siding and roofing - including metal or shingles - door and window installation. ### Areas Served - Timmins and surrounding area including kapuskasing and temagami. ### Typical Job Cost CAD - 1 000 000 I prefer to use a hybred type of contract. In todays market it makes the most sense where it all allows the owner the most savings without the worry of trades cutting corners.. ## Business Details | Field | Value | | --- | --- | | Business Name | Sprucewood developements | | Address | timmins, Ontario P4R 0E2, Canada | | Phone | (705) 274-3110 | | Website | http:// | | Followers on Houzz | 7 | ## Contact - **Houzz profile:** [Sprucewood developements](https://www.houzz.com/professionals/general-contractors/sprucewood-developements-pfvwus-pf~1511022302) - **Website:** http:// - **Phone:** (705) 274-3110 ## Reviews **Overall rating: 1.0 out of 5 — 2 reviews** ### All 2 reviews **★ — Anger Fortin, April 2019** > Smooth talker, I'll give him that much. > As unreliable as they come. > Won't show up - don't give him money. > Working for another company now - buyer beware. **★ — kenogamissikid, March 2015** > The carpentry work was acceptable. The dapping, filling, sanding & painting were terrible. > The job was left incomplete & the contractor would not return phone calls. > The siding job was not properly finished. ## Selected projects - [cottage interior](https://www.houzz.com/hznb/projects/cottage-interior-pj-vj~901553) - Location: Not specified - Photos: 7 - [small bedroom reno](https://www.houzz.com/hznb/projects/small-bedroom-reno-pj-vj~840323) - Location: Not specified - Photos: 3 - [kenogami sea cottage exterior](https://www.houzz.com/hznb/projects/kenogami-sea-cottage-exterior-pj-vj~840310) - Location: Not specified - Photos: 5 [See all 3 projects](https://www.houzz.com/professionals/general-contractors/sprucewood-developements-pfvwus-pf~1511022302) ## Community Q&A **Q: HELP! Problem Floor - Claims Process / Lawsuit?** *(in Design Dilemma)* Moving into our new home 9/1 and our Armstrong LVT problem floor issue won't be resolved. Basically it peaks at almost every end joint and it has been verified it is NOT an install issue. We can't even decide if we have the builder hold off on putting up baseboards because we don't know if/when Armstrong, the distributor or retailer will make good on this. Even if they did we don't know if they would cover all the damage and cost to pull baseboards off and put back on. We are about to give the retailer the flooring replacement estimate so their claim can be official filed to the distributor. Distributor rep came out and was extremely rude and belligerent. Builder had to step in and tell him not to speak to us like he did. We have been told by another local flooring company that this is common behavior for the distributor rep. The rep didn't acknowledge the issue, said he though all the peaking was "within tolerance" and that things like the direction we ran the floor and our wall color made it look like that! But even the distributor said the install was just fine. Distributor sent us another carton of the product and it has same peaking issue. Read elsewhere on Houzz about telling the retailer after we jump through the hoops of getting their claims process started that they have 10 days to issue a replacement credit or we will take them to small claims court. Is this the route to go? We are totally stressed out and frustrated about our flooring situation. Thanks for your advice. We need it. A: Its the product, plain and simple. Luxury vynil tile expands and contracts in temperature and humidity changes. I have seen this product from this manufacturer installed in 2 different apartment buildings and in both buildings the installation was done correctly and within weeks there was either peaking or gaps depending on whether the floor was either sun exposed or in a unit with no sun exposure. Some colors were worse than others. Natural wood colors were the worst. How did we solve the problem aside from ripping out 100 000 sq feet of it?. After completing the buildings so the mechanicals like hrv's and airconditioning were running fine and everything was balanced we allowed time for the floor to adjust to the conditions, then where there was peaking we pulled up the flooring and cut back the rows. We did the opposite where there were gaps. There havent been any problems since, but it took a while and we back charged the manufacturer. It seems this product regardless of manufacturer needs to be laid in perfect conditions. You can let the flooring sit and acclimate to your house all you want. We even opened every box and spread it out for a week to allow it to acclimate to the building. In my opinion, unless your home has a CONTINUOUS, STABLE temperature and humidity conditions there will always be a possibilty of peaking. So finish the house get the hrv running and keep the place constant than have the install compant do the repairs unless you have the chance to rip it out. Go to small claims and like sophie wheeler says, THEY WILL ALWAYS BLAME IT ON INSTALLATION. The can prove it you cant unless you videoed the whole install. **Q: Help From Flooring Specialists** *(in Design Dilemma)* Due to excessive water damage from a pipe that burst, our wood floors are cupping. Our contractor recommends that we wait to see if the floors return to normal once they have dried out completely, and this may take many months. (The leak has been resolved and this particular area is not used often, so we can wait it out ) Has anyone had this experience, and if so, how long will it take for the floors to return to normal? We have a dehumidifier running all the time to remove excess moisture in the room, but we haven't seen much improvement in the past few weeks. However, it has NOT gotten any worse. Wondering if we may end up having to have the floors refinished in the dining room. Thanks for any suggestions on how to resolve this problem, so we can get back to the "real" dilemma....finding the right dining room chairs for the room. Thanks again! A: Both cancork and sophie are correct. The floors are toast, but thats the least of your worries. Mold starts fast, in areas you dont see. Save your pennies, pay your deductible and get it repaired correctly. Sure it's a pain, but its your home. The floors wont flatten. I once hit a post with my car and every mornng I would go outside and magically hope the dents were gone. After three months they were still there. I opened my wallet and took it to the pros. The floors can be sanded or custom width hardwood milled, but the mold is the issue. Have it done right and sleep better at night. At least call the insurance and find out what you are entitiled to. **Q: how to attach trim** *(in Design Dilemma)* I bought a house, the previous owners did not finish the trim after they backsplash there is a gap see pictures, tried to caulk did not work, so I bought some quarter round trim both tops is 40 inches of trim and the sides are 14 inches. I tried to put the wood trim up with liquid nails did not work so what do I use. As you can see the previous folks put the outlet cover on crook. The backsplash was an awful peach so I scrubbed the tile and put 3 coats of high gloss white. Now to fix this gap I can see when sitting at the table. Thanks! A: theres two ways to tackle this. the first is with 1 inch brad nails shot up into bottom of cabinets. second is with grout . the tile should have been a little tighter but you can still grout the gap. use a white grout. while youmare at it scrape the flaking paint under the cabinets and give it a fresh coat. **Q: Need Help with Beam in Cathedral Ceiling** *(in Design Dilemma)* I am looking for designer help...we are currently renovating a 1964 ranch home and creating an open floor plan to include dining, living, kitchen and fireplace nook. Our support beam was recently installed with one supporting post that will be seen. Our dilemma is if we should leave the beam partially exposed and or have a flat peak right beneath the beam. The remainder of the arched ceiling will be drywall and painted white. The beam if exposed would be trimmed out and painted white as well. Please help. We don't know what would look the best. (For other details our home will already include oak and walnut wood tones. Kitchen cabinets will be the antiqued cream style.) Thank you in advance for any feedback. A: Actually the 12 + inches you will have will be enough for r40 single batt insulation with a 2 inch air space. I would hide the whole beam. keeping it partially exposed would show only about 3 inches of the besm **Q: Raising kitchen counters?** *(in Design Dilemma)* I am not tall, but I feel like when working in the kitchen I am always a little bent over and then my back aches. Would it help to raise the counters/cabinets by an inch or would that cause problems with arm height/ergonomics? A: It wont cause any issues with arm height ergonomics. Remember bathroom vanity heights used to be 32 inches now they have comfort height vanities which is actually the same height as kitchen cabinets. As long as raising the height of the counter top doesnt affect your plumbing I dont see it being an issue except esthetically. **Q: Want to remove the paint from a cane backed chair...?** *(in Design Dilemma)* Hiya experts...I found these on Craigslist, and want to get rid of the red. Any advice on stripping without damaging the cane? A: Would be spend so much time stripping the caning that if you paid yourself to do the job it would be cheaper to buy new chairs. Plus the chances of damaging the cane would be high. Paint them. --- *Source: Houzz professional profile. Reflects the profile as of 2026-09-07.*