---
title: "Peter Samarin Construction — General Contractors | Houzz"
canonical_html_url: https://www.houzz.com/professionals/general-contractors/peter-samarin-construction-pfvwus-pf~1765604287
markdown_url: https://www.houzz.com/md/professionals/pf~1765604287.md
entity_type: LocalBusiness
business_name: "Peter Samarin Construction"
category: ["General Contractors"]
address: "Whittier, California 90603, United States"
phone: "(562) 688-8684"
website: http://
rating: 0
review_count: 0
last_updated: 2026-09-08
---

# Peter Samarin Construction

Original Houzz profile: [Peter Samarin Construction](https://www.houzz.com/professionals/general-contractors/peter-samarin-construction-pfvwus-pf~1765604287)

## Professional summary

- **Primary category:** General Contractors
- **Location:** Whittier, CA
- **Serves:** Long Beach, Anaheim, Santa Ana, Huntington Beach, Fullerton, Orange, Costa Mesa, Norwalk, Whittier, Newport Beach, Buena Park, Lakewood, Yorba Linda, La Habra, South Whittier, Hacienda Heights, Cerritos, La Mirada, Brea, West Whittier-Los Nietos, Artesia, East La Mirada, Industry, City Of Industry, Orange Park
- **Houzz rating:** 0.0 out of 5 (0 reviews)

## About

### Houzz Badges

- Houzz Influencer

General contractor specializing in door and window replacements of all kinds. 20 plus years of experience. Projects carefully planned and executed.

### Services Provided

- Deck Building
- Window Replacement
- Window Installation
- Exterior Door Installation
- Siding Installation
- Deck Repair
- Sliding Door Installation
- Trim Work
- Crown Molding Installation
- Wood Siding
- Siding Repair
- Bifold Windows
- Custom Exterior Doors
- Custom Folding Doors
- Custom Interior Doors
- Custom Windows
- Door Repair
- Door Sales
- Egress Windows
- Finish Carpentry
- Patio Design
- Pergola Construction
- Sliding Door Repair
- Weather Stripping
- Window Caulking
- Window Repair
- Window Sales

### Areas Served

- Long Beach
- Anaheim
- Santa Ana
- Huntington Beach
- Fullerton
- Orange
- Costa Mesa
- Norwalk
- Whittier
- Newport Beach
- Buena Park
- Lakewood
- Yorba Linda
- La Habra
- South Whittier
- Hacienda Heights
- Cerritos
- La Mirada
- Brea
- West Whittier-Los Nietos
- Artesia
- East La Mirada
- Industry
- City Of Industry
- Orange Park

## Business Details

| Field | Value |
| --- | --- |
| Business Name | Peter Samarin Construction |
| Address | Whittier, California 90603, United States |
| Phone | (562) 688-8684 |
| Website | http:// |

## Contact

- **Houzz profile:** [Peter Samarin Construction](https://www.houzz.com/professionals/general-contractors/peter-samarin-construction-pfvwus-pf~1765604287)
- **Website:** http://
- **Phone:** (562) 688-8684

## Community Q&A

**Q: Kolbe Vista Luxe or WeatherShield Contemporary Collection** *(in Building a Home)*

Building dream lakehouse. The bid between Kolbe Vista Lux and WS Contemporary Collection has a $40K difference. In doing my research I cannot seem to find quality reviews comparing the two brands. Trust this community. Anyone care to share their POV? Thank you!

A: I have no experience with WS products so can't speak on it. But I can vouch for the quality of Kolbe units. Good luck.

**Q: Western Window Systems, Nana or La Cantina?** *(in Polls)*

We are trying to decide between La Cantina, Nana and Western Window Systems. Nana is actually on par with La Cantina (price wise - in the San Francisco Bay Area). Both are expensive after the installation charges and tax. Western Windows is cheaper, but the framing between the bifold doors is wider (blocking more of your view). Our door opening is 16.5’ wide by 9’ high. Our kitchen pass-through window is 6’ x 7’. Custom systems (larger glass panels/doors) are only possible for steel beam construction.

La Cantina doors are so easy to open (easy on a bad back!). I've been told that Nana doors are easy to open as well. However, a friend told me that the maintenance on the Nana doors is complicated, and expensive. Has anyone here experienced the maintenance servicing with their Nana doors?

Final pricing/quotes for all three brands: Western Window Systems $28,100, Nana $39,600 and La Cantina $39,000. We have to go with the most affordable this time around. I wish the Nana doors would have worked out (I like how they look most of all). I'll try to post some photos of our final Western Window install, in case anybody is interested to see how they turn out.

I'm just wondering if anybody has used Western Window Systems for their home?

I'd love to know your experiences with any of these 3 brands (Western Windows, Nana or La Cantina) :
-ease of use (if you have back or body injuries making it harder to maneuver)
-maintenance,
-pricing,
-hidden costs,
-customer service in general (but especially if you had problems with your doors/systems)
-shipping quality (e.g. any damage)
-turnaround time (from ordering to delivery)
-installation experiences (e.g. in-house installers? any problems? etc.)
Anything else you want to share?

Thanks in advance!

A: I have no experience with Nanawall but have worked with both Western and La Cantina in the LA/OC area. I highly recommend La Cantina units. I rarely if ever have problems with their products and I believe them to be a superior unit to Western. Just this mans opinion for what its worth. Best of luck.

**Q: different heights for window and door in same room** *(in Windows)*

I have a small sitting room off of my kitchen. It is dark. I am going to take out the wall (with the sconces) and put in a large three-panel casement window - 7' wide by 5' 




The wall faces south so it will bring in a lot more light. My question is, can the height of the window be taller than the height of the door? The door is 11" from the ceiling. The windows in the adjacent dining room (not shown) are 8" off the ceiling. The windows in the kitchen are higher too. I would prefer the window to be higher, but I'm not sure how that would look. 

The door is set slightly low. I am also wondering if i should go longer on the window. the space between the sconces is 7' I am wondering if I should open more to 8'. 

All thoughts appreciated and will be considered.

A: Considering the layout of that room I would keep the new window at the same height as the door next to it.  It will keep more with the flow of the room.  Mismatching door and window heights that close to each other tend to look like planning 'mistakes' in my opinion.  Go as wide as you can on the new window for maximum light and keep the top casing lines the same. Best of luck.

**Q: Help solve pergola / window conflict?** *(in Windows)*

Hello! 

So, we have a big, fat reno going on. One of the things we did was take out an old vinyl window with glass blocks above, and a pass-through counter on the outside. When we did this, the contractor decided to raise the window up, apparently to make room for a backsplash behind the sink that hadn't been there before. And when he did that, he had to cut out the crossbeam of the pergola. There is about 1" of hardware on the beam where the cross-beams attach. 

Do you have a clever solution to this problem? We live in SoCal, and we would like to retain the shade. Should we just saw off the extra wood on the right side of the beam? It will leave a big disparity in negative space around the window. I feel like it really diminishes from the beauty of the window. First world problems I'll learn to ignore?

A: It's not the worst thing if you can live with it. But if you're determined to remedy the issue you could prop up the slats, cut out the joists and install new joists with the window appropriately spaced in the center. Mind you this might throw off the spacing of whatever joists are outside the picture. Cost might determine how big of a problem it is for you. Best of luck.

**Q: Installation recommendation for replacement windows** *(in The Old House)*

I have a mid-century home with the original aluminum single pane windows. Looking to replace everything for Milgard Fiberglass as they will get a lot of direct sun exposure. 

The lower level of the house is a completely stone siding, on the upper level the stone runs up to and around the bottom of the windows with wood continuing to the roof. 

One contractor quoted me for all block frame install, another told me they should have a partial nail flange for weather protection where bordering wood. However the windows surrounded by stone can only be block frame install with caulking. 

I'm completely new to window installation so asking here for neutral advice. Does everything I'm being told sound right? Any way I can avoid relying on caulking altogether? 

Thanks!

A: The way I have sealed block windows against stone or elsewhere where a nailing fin cannot be used is to over fill the gap with a high quality waterproof spray foam, (Dap, Loctite) After the foam has dried it can be cut flush with the exterior of the window or slightly behind, and then caulked over with high quality polyurethane sealant thoroughly, (Sika Flex) How tight the windows are to the stonework and the color of the sealant will determine if a trim piece of some kind needs to be installed over the polyurethane and then additionally caulked. Best of luck.

**Q: I need advice on box bay window.** *(in Windows)*

We have a small ranch home with a large picture window. 9'×5' I am looking at having the window built out to a box bay. This would be a flat front window (no angled windows) with three sections. My question is, would this look good? The projection would be 8" from the brick. The inside would gain a window seat 12" deep. I'm also not sure if a plain window or window with grills would look better. It's hard to spend so much money with no idea of how it will look.

A: In my opinion the look gained on the exterior would not be very different than what you have currently. The value in the change would mainly be determined by the interior window seat space and light gained from the side windows. Best of luck.

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*Source: Houzz professional profile. Reflects the profile as of 2026-09-08.*