Jennifer, the floor gloss level and color along with species will make all the difference in how the floor looks after having kids and pets run across them. Our engineered Oak and Hickory are both very durable floors and are available with a factory applied finish. Solid hardwood is always a good option unless you need engineered for some other reason like humidity or climate.

Like Oak & Broad states, a solid hardwood is the most desireable option UNLESS there are other factors such as climate, humidity or 'direct on slab' in areas that have high water tables.

If you are working with engineered hardwood and you are working with a prefinished, mass produced product (Oak & Broad works from slightly different stock...so his flooring doesn't necessarily fit into the typical "factory finish" category I'm talking about) you are most likely looking at Aluminum Oxide in the finish.

Please be aware that Aluminum Oxide reduces the chances of "refinishing" these floors in the future. It reduces the chances down to 1% - 10% of being able to refinish the floors. Despite what the sales person goes on about "wear layer" and "can be refinished just like solid hardwood", if this is finished in Aluminum Oxide those chances dwindle to just about nil.

The reason: Aluminum Oxide is so tough and has ruined so many professional machines, most contractors will not touch the job. They will decline and walk away. The one person willing to try it either doesn't know what s/he is getting into OR they are VERY GOOD at what they are doing and they will charge 3-4 times the going rate to get the Aluminum Oxide off the floor. If you do the math, it is often cheaper to pay someone to rip out the floor and have it replaced rather than have someone refinish Aluminum Oxide.

The second thing you need to know about engineered hardwood is this: the "janka hardness" scale DOES NOT APPLY to these floors. The "hardness" you are looking for (prevents dents and permanent dings) is not always there. The reason: the "hard" finish such as hickory is only 3-4mm thick. The hard layer is then sitting on soft pine or birch which means if a dent is going to occur it will still occur on a "hard wood" because the middle layers are "soft" and therefore will dent under normal use...some of them are so soft that a dropped can of soup will create a permananent dent.

If you are going to look at engineered AND you want to work with a floor that can be refinished you must stay away from Aluminum Oxide. If you are looking at engineered hardwood you want to look at a high "layer count" plus a nice thickness (4mm or more) of the "hardwood". The higher the "layer count" the higher quality (usually) the floor.

An engineered hardwood with 7 layers, with 4mm wear surface and finished in oil or regular UV cured urethane/polyurethane is a great option. These are not normally found in "big box stores". This floor will also cost very close to the same price as a solid hardwood that is site stained/finished.

These are the things to be "aware of". I hope this helps.