I don't speak out for or against trying to make containers a hospitable environment for soil organisms. I use soluble fertilizers because they are very easy for plants to take up. It just never made a lot of sense to me to use an organic fertilizer to build mycorrhizae populations so they could help break down and take up the nutrients from organic fertilizers.

I see mycorrhizae occurring naturally in many if not most most of my containers at repot time in the spring, but little evidence of it through summer months until late fall when soil temperatures have dropped.

It may be of value to try to work with it - I'm undecided. I do know that I'm able to maintain extremely healthy container plantings, as has been evidenced by the hundreds of pictures I've posted, without any special consideration given to promoting populations beyond what naturally occurs, or trying to provide a hospitable environ for symbiotic fungi.

Al

That is one of my problems, no mycrorhizer seen when re-potting.
One of the reasons may be (I'm guessing) over fertilizing with soluble fertilizers even though I have alternated with organics.
Last spring many of my bonsai in training died. They would start out great but after opening fully they would slowly die.
I believe they opened with stored energy and once used up they could not take up what they needed to survive.
So I'm looking for answers.
Thanks for your input Al, I appreciate all the help you have provided over the years.
I hope if any one else as had similar problems they will jump in with how they handled it.

Thanks for the kind words, Paul.

What were/are you using for soil?

I know how traumatic losing a tree can be, like only a fellow bonsai practitioner can appreciate, so I empathize ..... I'm also very glad you're looking for answers instead of giving up. That bodes well for the art.

..... best to you always.

Al

Check at your local Lowe's or order on line the all natural plant food, Bio-tone Starter Plus. Read the label carefully to be certain you are buying the type containing Mycorrhizae (marked clearly on the package) plus beneficial bacteria. As a long time container grower and Bonsai addict I have found this to be an outstanding product and encourage you to experiment with it. I work a handful into the top of every large container when planting and add a tablespoon full when repotting Bonsai.

Al
After I lost the tree's last spring I tried "Boon's mix "and the plants seem to do well, this winter will tell.
"Wee Tree Farm" had a sale and I bought two 3.5 gallon packages for this spring. I also bought NAPA#8822 and will be buying Pine or fir bark to mix in depending on the tree.
nandina
Bio-tone is an Espoma product as are 3 of the organic items in the slow release fertilizer. The kelp is from "Neptunes Harvest". The fish emulsion I use is also "Neptune's Harvest" fish and seaweed mix. The largest Pumpkin in New England was only given Neptune Harvest about 2 years ago.
I do use about 1 to 2 tablespoon of Bio-tone when 1st planting a new tree depending on the size of the tree.

Paul

But...are you using the Bio-tone starter fertilizer that contains Mycorrhizae fungus? Doesn't sound like it from what you wrote.

Yes, I am.They only have one starter with Mycorrhizae. cultures.
It doesn't seem to help that's why I'm here.

Aren't mycorrhizae species or genus specific in many cases?

I only advocate the use of these products when dealing with large enough containers
(or raised beds) where moisture and temperature are moderated by the volume of mix.

When I re-pot plants in bark-based mixes, I often find various fungi in the medium.

Josh

As far as I know some are specific but not all. I understanding pine are as are most conifers.
I really am not sure about deciduous trees but most are.
I got this on the web:
"Over 95% of the worldâÂÂs plant species form with mycorrhizae and require the association for maximum performance in the field. For more information on your specific plants, go to âÂÂAsk Dr. Mikeâ at www.mycorrhizae.com."
Espoma puts different cultures in their bio-starter.