Another look at a white mulberry I chopped and potted last spring:
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I imagine I'll have the canopy closed by the end of next summer & will be working on ramification. I should end up with a pretty neat little tree. It should come in at around 6-8" from the soil line with a 2" trunk.

I think you should abandon the idea of a bunjin with that tree - at least with that trunk - nothing stopping you from growing another, though. The bunjin style usually exhibits unusual and exaggerated trunk movement. I would put your tree in the ground & let it fatten. If it's going to be anything but a broom or eventually a bunjin, you should probably be thinking about chopping to build in some taper.

Al

On the other hand bunjin/literati is a pretty wide open and diverse type of style. Many years ago John Naka did a very lengthy essay on the style. His conclusion was pretty much that; if it 'looks' like or close to any of the 7 8 or maybe 9 types, it's probably bunjin.

Bob

Gardener Guy. I want to mention that when/if I talk about your trees and use critical terms about the trees current features, it's not meant to disparage you or your trees. If I ever say anything negative, please take it as conversational and constructive - like we had the tree on a bench in front of us and were talking about it face to face. We would be looking for it's good points so we could accentuate them (or even build new ones in to the design) as the tree develops, while at the same time weighing the negatives or the things that need to be overcome while bringing whatever concept you decide on to fruition. Between bonsai practitioners, these conversations are usually pretty frank because that understanding is already in place and the artists understand there is much to be learned from the critical eye.

Bob - I readily concede that the literati style appears to be wide open to the artist's whimsy, but we should consider that not in every case, but in almost every case, one of the primary features of the literati style is a very unusual trunk-line, which this tree doesn't currently have. The trunk should also make the tree appear ancient and evoke the feeling it has been waging a war with nature and weather for many years over its meager claim on life, which this tree will not have for a good number of years (bark still smooth, for one thing). Those things are certainly possible for/with this tree with some planning, plenty of time, and some work, if its owner wants to take it that way. I'm wondering what he has in mind for the tree's future styling. I just don't see it as a literati, but the tree is young and practically anything is possible with a tree as genetically vigorous as mulberry .... and a little determination.

Al

I can see that a trunk chop most likely will not fit this tree. I like the idea somewhat but I would have to wait until next year to chop it then wait longer to re-grow branches and a top. I do like you tree Al. Here is a drawing I made of a possible style for this tree. Using a side branch to create a new apex. What do you think?

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Thanks,
Gardener Guy

If it pleases you, it's what you should do. The important thing is to feed your enthusiasm. If you like working with mulberry, start some (dormant) cuttings. The tree is very vigorous & you'll have material you can work on in no time if you put them in the ground.

FWIW - you don't often see jins on deciduous material; and I realize it's just a picture, but for future reference the jinned top should be either taller or shorter than the live apex. The picture confuses the eye. You can't be sure if you should be looking at the jin or the living part as the compositions apex.

BTW - I meant to mention you can treat your tree for the leaf spot with over-counter fungicides that have Tebuconazole. It's systemic and works very well - I've been using it for quite a while & have not yet found anything sensitive to it.

I think this is one of those cases where I need to make myself look at your tree through YOUR eyes. My vision of how to turn your tree into a literati involves allowing it to grow long (temporarily) & keeping all the branches pruned off the bottom so very little taper develops and waiting until the bark develops some character. I would also put movement into the trunk & remove some bark in strategic places to add character. At some point, after the bark develops, I would chop the tree high on a long trunk & utilize the few branches I had developed after deciding their placement enhanced the composition.

Looking through your eyes, I need to see that your goal isn't a tree that is all it can be several years from now ..... you want a tree you can put in a pot and be proud of now. Both goals are perfectly fine, the paths are just different. Bonsai is about fun and your own personal satisfaction, so it doesn't matter what I say or think, as long as you're getting what you need from the experience. ;o) Keep us posted.

Al

I could plant this tree in the ground and let it just grow for some time. Maybe that way the tree will develop some of it's own character. This tree has been in a container for two years. It started as a "weed tree" on the side of the house. Sometimes I just want to style it so that it won't look like an ugly "weed tree" in a pot, if you know what I mean. I guess I could go drastic with it and finish the style it is in now then plant it in the ground.

Thanks Al for all you help and thanks to all the others for your help too. I think sometimes I need to be brought back to reality. Thanks

Gardener Guy

Lol - we all need reality checks from time to time ..... like the one I mentioned about looking at the tree through your eyes, but I think you're doing fine & don't need anyone to bring you back to reality. You can't hurt anything by styling it in a bunjin style. The worst that can happen is you'll eventually have to start over with a trunk chop or by putting it in the ground for a while ..... no big deal - and if that happens to happen, it will have been worth it because of all you learned while you were fussing over it.

Al

Here is the mulberry with the new style. What do you think?

Gardener Guy

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The old top definitely competes with the living apex for your eye. I would reduce the height of it drastically - to about an inch long. Keep in mind as you move forward that bunjins usually have few branches & sparse foliage.

Al

Yea I will work with the dead wood once it drys out. I will definitely shorten that part. You can see a "Scar" up on the dead wood from where I removed another apex very early on. I do think that the branches are sparse though. Don't you? I suppose it will look better once the tree regains its leaves and starts growing again. I also could add some significant bends in the trunk if you think it needs some. Maybe the trunk should follow the style of the new apex. I'll think about it. Looking at this tree from time to time should help.

Gardener Guy

I would definitely add bends in there. It looks far too tall for a pot as of right now.

Can I have an example of how I should bend the trunk? I would love to hear/see what some of you have in mind.

Thanks,

Gardener Guy

The tree is just starting to leaf out. It is starting to look good. I will soon have pictures. Thanks for all the advice.

Gardener Guy