I like the blue better, with the white, more classic. Suggestion; I would not add a Chinese red to this room, feels wrong with the blue walls, too hard, too many dark colors competing, too red/white and blue. Maybe just white or silver grey instead, on the painted cabinet....a little color goes a long way. I believe all walls should be in the same navy,,,, in the small room will be fine, all the walls will recede, instead of painting different wall colors....too much going on in a small room. Bulk up the lamp, keep it light against the dark blue background and keep it shorter, but not short. Change the bedding - look at hotel bedding ( see Restoration Hardware for inspiration ) for a classic skinny stripe, possibly the grey tone, on white. Or add a great pattern, like the upper right photo in blue/greys/whites. Frankly the upper right/blue room is good for a template. Not sure if you're attached to the painting,,but a less bulky frame and a less green, more happy piece of artwork may be a better choice. Or a composition of white framed, but different sized black and white photos, a more personal touch.....

I know you don't want to repaint, but what about wallpapering one of the walls in a bright green pattern as an accent wall. This will brighten up the space and add alot of drama. I was thinking the wall behind the bed. Then get some purple bedding a couple shades darker than the other walls, so it isn't green bedding against green walls. Maybe you could get a green accent pillow? I would also recomend keeping the sheets white to jazz with the white nightstands you bought. I kind of skimmed the comments so I don't know if you decided to keep and paint your lamps, or to get new ones. Either way, go with black. If you choose to get new ones, I would go with something slightly taller than you would imagine a table lamp being, and go with white shades. I agree with whoever said to buy a white rug extending partway under the bed. This is an excellent idea and will add depth to the room by layering peices. I also agree with whoever said white curtains, however, I would go with sheer. If you are against white curtains for any reason, I would go with black curtains to match your now black lamps. Black, while being a neutral, would also help anchor the space as well as modernize it. I also think that the wall with the armoir against it should have some sort of art against it. I would refrain from going with warmer colors like reds and oranges and yellows. While I appreciate contrast (Actually, I love contrast), the picture being the only point of contrast in the room would not look good at all. I also think that if you get and a green-and-purple themed painting, like suggested above, it might over play the theme and/or blend in. However, it would still be better than a warm-colored painting. If it were me, I would go with a black and white photograph or a black and white abstract painting. By the black and white abstract painting, I mean BLACK and WHITE, not all the gray tones in between that you would find in a photograph. As a final note, if your budget includes it, I would Include a glitzy (is that a word) glass light fixture, which would really add some drama to the room. I will link pictures below.

We have some neighbourhoods that often go by landmarks to reach someone's home but some people have actually painted their house exterior blue, pink and orange (unusual) in order that friends can identify their house immediately by its colour!! The orange house- for some reason- I feel that is colour according to Mediterranean tastes. Funny enough, the become known as the "blue house" or "pink house" by other residents who also may use them as landmarks too. I would suggest you repaint it as there is already so much beautiful colour around your house. Go neutral like cream, white, or grey.

At what temperature are these plants kept? Have you been fertilizing? Not a diagnosis, but, the most common cause of purple leaves (very common at this time of year) is a deficiency of phosphorus (P) because P is required to make ATP and ATP is needed to turn sugars to starch and to load sugar into phloem tissues for transport. No P - no ATP - no move sugars/starches - anthocyanin (purple pigment) builds up - plant turns purple. The most frequent cause of a P deficiency is cold soils, which is why so many plants planted out too early or otherwise suffering from chill turn purple. A P(hosphorous) deficiency is not the only suspect cause of purple leaves. Nearly any environmental condition that puts the brakes on growth and the accompanying use of sugars, but does not limit sugar production (photosynthesis) can cause anthocyanin buildup and purple leaves. If only the outer edges of the leaves are purple, it may be a K or Mg deficiency. If the center of the leaves are also purple, it could be too much Ca in the soil or the result of too much water in the soil blocking uptake of P and Mg. Don't try to fix nutritional problems by using a fertilizer high in phosphorous or by focusing on a single element (adding Epsom salts to "fix" a perceived magnesium deficiency, for example). Your best bet going forward is to A) make sure you have adjusted watering intervals so they are appropriate by using a "tell" to "tell" you when it's time to water (see "Tell" below), B) flush the soil when you water, and C) fertilize about every 4th or 5th watering - depending on the season and how well the plant is growing. It makes more sense to tie watering intervals to the number of times you've watered rather than to the calendar. Drop a button or marble in the pot each time you water to keep track of how many times every plant has been watered since the last application of fertilizer solution. Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 is a superb and offers complete nutritional supplementation in a single container. Keep the plant warm, 65-75*F, and in very bright light. You might also find this short piece I wrote, An Overview of Good Growing Practices to be helpful. Notice the emphasis I place on choosing/making an appropriate grow medium - it's a KEY factor which holds much sway over what level of proficiency you can advance to. IOW, it is more often than not the factor that limits growers from quickly advancing to green thumb status. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Finally. Your questions would get much more attention if they were posted at: The Houseplant Forum The Cacti/ Houseplant Forum or even The Container Gardening Forum or, all three. Questions/ concerns? Al