Try removing all roots that are dead around the edge of the pot. Big or small. Okay to cut big Tap roots and others in center of root ball. Do NOT cut ALL big roots. Some are still being used to transfer water and nutrients from the small feeder roots to the tree.Small roots can be trimmed back into the good growth. This will promote new root growth. Remove most of old soil. comb roots out. Use chop stick or other instrument to make sure soil is surrounding all of the roots. Make sure there is no no air pockets. Water good. Maybe some shade until it gets established again. Good time to repot fruit trees is probably when the tree is dormant and just before it is getting ready to start the growing season. Good Luck

Hi - while Gwade's advice is not wrong, I would want more clarity about exactly how to do some of the steps and I think you should try to find a local bonsai club where you live and ask them to show you how to repot properly. Your description of what you do has some problems and a club will explain why to do certain things, why to not do others, and when (which season) to repot what type of trees. That's as important as anything else. You do need help, and it's good that you asked for it, but you also need to see how things are really done, and ask questions as you watch each step.

This post was edited by moochinka on Thu, Oct 30, 14 at 7:24

Iskhan,

Here is another thing you might consider: Trim top and bottom at the same time. I suggest cut off about 1/3 of leaves and 1/3 of roots every year, maybe every other year. I generally cut the edges, too, but sometimes a big one has to go. I aslo use a chopstick to repot -- stab it into the new soil and wiggle it. Keep adding more soil until no more will go in.

Afterwards, keep in part sun/part shade for a week or two. LAter, lots of sun. (You probably know that.) Don't fertilize for a while. And don't over-water. One thing about citrus is that they will sprout buds from anywhere on the branch, which means you may have lots of options to shape it. They also tend to get ugly 'knuckles' if there are too many branches from one spot. There's lots to learn. To join a local club is good advice.

I have a warm spot for anyone who tries citrus. Mine are butt-ugly bonsai, but thirty years ago I started them from seeds -- my first survivors. I never had any luck with kumquats or Tahiti oranges (Otahiti?? I forget), which have small fruit As for mango: Do they have those delicate 'double' leaves? I'll bet that when you get it going, it'll be wonderful.

PS: Soil matters, too. Use a good bonsai soil. I buy mine, so I can't tell you how to mix it, but some of these other folks can. Mine has no peat in it at all -- it is not kitty litter, but looks just like it.

Hi
Thanks for reply all.
There is nothing available regarding bonsai I make my own version soil and fertilizer.
How to find that tree is dormant or not?
If the pot is break then what to do?
How to find which big roots are still being used to transfer water and nutrients from the small feeder roots to the tree?

Where do you live - I'll tell you about dormancy...

What are you using for soil?

If the pot breaks, put the whole thing - rootball in as much of one piece as possible - into another container with 1-2 drainage holes, preferably the pot should not be glazed (painted) inside, not metal or glass, though in an emergency until you get a new one, you use what you have of course. You can't really know which roots are which, but the point is to try and leave some larger ones, even if you have to cut some shorter, plus you don't want to interfere with the design of the nebari unless it makes sense to do it.

Bonsai takes years to learn, but there's lots online to look at - learn to Google different 'key' words and use the Images feature - and there are many YouTube videos about repotting to see how it's done;.

I live in Karachi Pakistan.
I use 50%gravel with 50%compost as a soil.
I make 4 holes in a pot.

Your trees won't have 'cold' dormancy because it's too hot there, but may take a few weeks of rest in autumn, and not need to be watered as often as they would in spring or summer, but I think you should talk to people there about growing plants in general - people who grow and sell plants there, because they'll have a much better idea of what to do. Being in N. America makes it hard to help you much.

In my experience, citrus trees do not like to have their roots messed with. I live in Florida, United States, and even here I have yet to see a bonsai citrus or mango tree and I have four large bonsai nurseries within an hour of me due to this. For growing what we call "patio" citrus, a half barrel is the recommended size. I have some citrus I'm trying to keep in small pots, but they are not doing well and only thrive a year after being put into a bigger pot. If you want to do bonsai, you may need to look into another type of tree. Barbados cherry takes to being bonsai'd, as does tamarind (but you don't cut the roots, you just let them fill the pots).

Wrapping the roots in wet newspaper is supposed to do something- maybe soften them up a bit or allow you to take your time.