I am going to water it daily maybe around 2 times.

I am going to water it daily maybe around 2 times.

@Yardvaark I never do something because someone "told me so", but because I value the fact that they are trying to assist me in making my yard look better. Just like when you take your car in to a pro for service vs throwing parts at the engine hoping it will fix the issue.

That is as I believed all along.

Were supposed to get some strong storms with high winds tomorrow afternoon. I still have the straw over the grass seed. what to do if it all blows away?[

The main point of the straw is to help conserve moisture. If you are watering twice a day like you said, you may not need it. Or go back and add some more straw if that makes you comfortable.

How long should I wait until adding more grass seed in the bare spots? Originally I added seed everywhere, but its not filling in. It has only been 2 weeks though.

More pics

Wait at least another week. I see a green haze so it's coming.

I wanted to post some results for the grass seed that I tried to add in this area. The grass grew for about 1 month and a half, but then stopped.....any help on what to do next is appreciated. I was thinking of adding EZ Seed and watering it daily, but it has been very dry in our area. Watering the original grass seed that I added proved unsuccessful.

more pics

The grass does not look dead, but "dormant" from being allowed to go too long between waterings. I would still give it daily water for at least two weeks. If it shows signs of greening, back off on the water to about every other day and keep it up for a couple more weeks. But then, don't go too long between waterings. It's still young, non-established grass.

@Yardvaark how long should I water it. Once in a while I'll put my sprinkler there for 5-10 minutes. Other times I will just use the hose for 2-3 minutes. What about the bare spots? Should I add some Scott's EZ seed in those areas now or in the fall?

@Yardvaark how long should I water it. Once in a while I'll put my sprinkler there for 5-10 minutes. Other times I will just use the hose for 2-3 minutes. What about the bare spots? Should I add some Scott's EZ seed in those areas now or in the fall?

There's a fair amount of difference in how much water various implements put out. Rather than measuring time, you should water until you're sure it's drenched. If you were to dig down 6", all the soil should be moist. If you check it a time or two, then you'll know how long to apply the water. To bring it back to green and get it to establish, you need to give it much more water than it would ordinarily receive. Once it greens, still be generous with water and don't let it get too dry between waterings.

@Yardvaark. Believe me I drenched this area for a month straight. Something else is going on. I will water it twice daily and go from there. If that fails is EZ seed in the fall my next step?

I wish believing you were that easy, but I'm frequently faced with people who claim they did such-and-such, when upon finer examination, it is apparent they are not doing as they think. That's why I said to dig down and check to make certain that you are doing as you think. We can see that grass once grew. It is SOOOOOOO common for homeowners to start new grass, get it up and running (green) ... and then start taking care of it like the rest of their lawn because it looks the same. In fact, the rest of the lawn is established with deep roots. But the new grass is a tender baby without any deep roots. It will die quickly if it goes too long without water while the grass surrounding it will look fine. If here and now, the new grass actually died, it will not come back and will need to be re-started from new seed. If it NEARLY died -- just brown, but not 100% croaked -- then there is the possibility that regular waterings applied immediately and consistently might save it's little infant life. If it can return to green, then it would STILL need babying with extra water until the winter comes.

@Yardvaark. Scroll all the way up and check out when I originally started this thread. There's no reason that I would lie about something I worked so hard to achieve.

Whoever has suggested you're lying?? Not me!! But when amateurs describe things and draw conclusions, often they are not correct, or inadequate. So you may think your grass is getting wet to its roots ... but if you don't DIG DOWN AND CHECK, you will not know for certain. You'll just be guessing. And if you knew for certain, you would not need to ask how much time to water. I am not accusing you of anything. Just suggesting you need to check your own work to make certain.

@Yatdvaark

I normally am able to water at noon and 6pm. Good or bad?

it is fine.

@Yardvaark should I add Scott's EZ Seed and aerate in early Sept or pass on that and just keep on watering and wait until Spring to do all of that?

Keep watering to find out what you can achieve by early Sept. and make the decision then. If it looks promising, keep what you have. If it looks not good, then move on to your next back-up plan.

@Yardvaark here is how it looks after watering constantly a few days. As you can tell its very dry around here. Check out the surrounding lawn.

It is only the evening of Aug 17 that you agreed to begin watering again 2 x day. The above picture is only 3 days later! Surely you cannot expect a turnaround result in that short of a time. Growth -- especially from less than happy conditions -- takes longer. I wouldn't expect to see the beginning of change for a couple of weeks and then you must continue (at a SLIGHTLY reduced rate) for some time (weeks) thereafter. If you see a little more green on September 2, then you can be reassured that the additional watering has helped. If you see more green and think that it's a good sign to stop watering, it indicates why the green grass would have turned brown in the first place.

@YardVaark, the temps here are in the 70's mainly, but in a few weeks they are dipping down to the 50's. Should I add grass seed now and continue watering?

I see more green now.

Good to hear that it's greening. If it is sparse and needs seed added, go ahead and add it according to rate stated on the label directions (or standard directions for that type grass.) With adding new seed, you will need to water and care for the area as you would for any newly seeded bed. Do not cut off the watering before the grass roots have established sufficiently to support the top of the plant. Even next year, this area will need some additional water, as compared to the established grass around it.

Temps will be in the 80's next week looks like. In 2 weeks they will be in the 50's. How long do I water? Until the grass is established? Even in the 50's?

Temps will be in the 80's next week looks like. In 2 weeks they will be in the 50's. How long do I water? Until the grass is established? Even in the 50's?

No one can tell you how long because it depends on fluctuating factors. When cold temps come, it's likely water will not disappear from soil so quickly, lessening the job of watering. But if long time passes with no rain and soil does get dry, the human must step forward and add water. It means getting down on hands and knees, digging, and checking periodically. Close observation will offer tell-tale signs of when water is needed, so it's a matter of putting in more effort until more experience is gained. If the area doesn't suffer from water shortage when next year's hot weather comes, by the end of the summer it will become just like the rest of the lawn.

@Yardvaark

What do you think? Would you like any closer pics? Should I double stack the brick pavers or leave them close to the ground like they are now?
http://i.imgur.com/0RbAmDx.jpg

@Yardvaark

More pics.
http://i.imgur.com/HMCzFvD.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/PNSW7De.jpg

That looks MUCH better than the hot dog shaped bed. You just need to grow those plants in the circle into something lush so it will look finished.

You REALLY need to remove some lower limbs on the tree.

@Yardvaark

Please give me an idea of how many limbs to remove and how high. As far as the growth of the shrubs....that tree soaks up all of the water so it's VERY hard.

You also have to remember here in WI things just started growing. We just got temps is the 60's a few weeks ago.

I bought some Spirea shrubs tonight, should I try to plant them by the tree or leave what I have?

I would use what you already have. Increase it. And make it happy.

Ok....so I need to buy more hostas. What about the tree limbs?

@Yardvaark

How high should I cut the limbs?

Remove limbs up to, but not higher than, 50% of the tree's overall height. The goal should be to produce an overhead canopy, not an in-your-face wall raised off the ground. Waiting too long to remove branches only makes the job more difficult and increases the chances that the tree will have an artistically misshapen trunk structure.

@Yardvaark.
I always thought that as long as I could walk underneath the tree all is well..

Even if that were correct, you couldn't possibly walk under that tree unless you are only 40" tall.

I'm 5'8 and I walk around it without an issue. 40'-wow you are way off.

Not to dwell on it, but "around it" is different than below it. No claim can be proven on a forum without clear, indisputable evidence. ("Trust but verify") To demonstrate your point, submit a picture of an adult standing erect next to the tree with their head no farther than 6" away from the trunk. (Their face does not need to show.) When seen, it will believed.

Post the picture directly into the thread, not a link. Take it from the same vantage point as this picture.

{{gwi:14827}}

If you don't want to trim the tree ... don't. There will be a consequence for no one but yourself.

I will NOT post pics of people on here. Bottom line. I'll find a gardening tool that is as tall as me or taller and I'll post a pic of that.

To use a tool of an unknown length would demonstrate nothing. If you cover your face, you would be unidentifiable. (Be covered elsewhere, too!) Or stand a standard brick, concrete block or gallon milk jug next to the trunk as these are items of known length.

I'll do you one better. I'll post a pic of the tool next to a tape measure.

Yardvaark, I do thank you for your efforts in the past in making my yard look better. I owe you an apology. After reading your post the trunks are lower in the "middle" than when I walk around the tree. In all fairness though I still the tree looks just fine and I'm not about to prune some huge branches off of it I don't know what else that might do in the longrun to the tree. Maybe nothing, but I'm not an expert either....as you know.

PS- as far as hiding my face goes. Let's just put it this way. Been married 15 years and my wife hates that women still hit on me. Lol

"and my wife hates that women still hit on me.

Tell her not to worry. I was hot once, too. It will come to an end.

As far as pruning off branches when they are young and small, as for any aging, the price will be paid later.

Oh not to worry Yaardvark, beauty is from within...:)