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dirtslinger2

Creating shade with a shade tree grouping?

19 years ago

I've got a large tree-less field and slowly sectioning it into a more uselful areas.

I'd like to create an aprox 1/2 acre shady section for use as living space in the summertime during hot periods. Eating area, cooking area, campfires and small-time recreation- basically a big campsite.

Any ideas on what sort of design I'd want to create this useable space? Rows or triangulation... I just can't make the decision.

I'll be planting mainly fast growing maple species, a couple Platanus X, and possibly Metasequoia (if they are good shade trees I don't know)- basically just FAST growing trees that enjoy damp/wet soil.

I plan to overplant initially, and then remove certain trees- so that I can use this space sooner rather than later and never have crowding.

I'd appreciate any design ideas!

Comments (14)

  • 19 years ago

    Think about your uses and the future root conditions. Most maples are going to have surface roots that will be on the surface a few years down the road. So, if a smooth walking surface is desired, use something else.

  • 19 years ago

    Most maples don't like damp/wet soil. Have you asked for some advice at the tree forum?

  • 19 years ago

    Several maples thrive in wet- platanoides, rubrum, and saccharinum are the varieties I chose- fast and can tolerate the local conditions.

  • 19 years ago

    Still hoping for a design idea- aside from about 40' apart (for the permanant trees) I can't decide what sort of formation would work best.
    Thanks again.

  • 19 years ago

    I would go for the triangulation. Or the rows, if you like it better.

  • 19 years ago

    Jo: Is some of the forum humor wearing off on you? (I have to assume there was some level of sarcasm in your post)

    slinger: If you are going for a natural campground type of effect I am not sure rows or triangles really fit the bill. What if you took a bucket of tennis balls, tossed them around the area, and planted a tree where each ball landed? I don't know about your growing conditions, but I would suggest adding in some slower growing trees and maybe some evergreens as well.

    - Brent

  • 19 years ago

    As we are told that this is a design issue can I be so bold as to ask what time frame is envisioned "just FAST growing trees that enjoy damp/wet soil." doesn't cover it for me. Are we talking about 20 years, 5 years or instantly? The next question is about budget as you can buy mature trees and arrange them how you want at a price.

  • 19 years ago

    Thanks!
    The budget is low, so I do plan to have "rapid" growers throughout so that shade will come asap. By asap, I understand nothing is instant- but some shade in 5 years would be wonderful- so long as they go in this year.

    I think that in 15-20 years the quality trees should be well grown enough to provide shade. The rapid growers would likely all be removed at or even before that.

    Still trying to picture a good layout- you see diagrams to block wind, to block noise- but shade is just way too basic- maybe I'm making things more difficult than need be.

  • 19 years ago

    I've done some reforesting in my life so, here are
    some reasonably fast growing shade trees for your area:

    Pin Oak
    Tulip tree
    Red maple
    Silver Maple
    Dogwood
    Crab apple or regular apples(get a full sized variety, not a dwarf) These attract wasps unless you keep the dropped apples picked up. Smell great in spring and nice if you want to use the apples. Otherwise, get a tree with the small little crab apples, these look awesome in the fall and birds love them.
    Cherry
    White pine
    Honey locust
    Willows: some love them, most hate them
    Birches

    Don't put the campfire pit close to the trees, sparks can fly up into the branches and catch fire.

    Still, unless you buy big trees, we are talking ten years at least.

  • 19 years ago

    Thanks for the list! I hadn't thought of pin oak, locust or dogwood.

  • 19 years ago

    White pine- what is the latin name? I see several similar but no exact 'white'.
    Thanks again.

  • 19 years ago

    If the area is wet, the following trees will grow well: sycamore, cypress, dawn redwood, red maples (many cultivars). I have a similar situation and have planted blue spruce to provide more impact in the winter. I would place the trees in an irregular pattern, and leave lots of space between them or you will have a dense thicket. You might plant several of one species to tie the whole thing together. A thought: landscape design should give more consideration to larger landscapes (3 or more acres). Its hard to find much information in this area.

  • 19 years ago

    Pinus Strobus is the Eastern White Pine. Then you've got P. Mugo (Mugo), P. Nigra (Austrian Pine), P. Resinosa (Red Pine), P. Sylvestris (Scots Pine), and P. Banksiana (Jack Pine)...

  • 19 years ago

    Pinus strobus is white pine. This one can stand a little bit of wet feet. Most conifers do not like wet soil, their roots will grow shallow along the surface of the soil, being a pain, and also making them susceptible to getting tipped over in a high wind storm. Exceptions for your zone are hemlock, white cedar (arborvitae) and tamarack/american larch. Cedar and larch don't make good shade trees although I think both are gorgeous. Hemlocks do eventually, if you trim the bottom branches, but they are slow growers. That's why I recommended white pine. I worked at a camp that used it extensively for reforesting, and it eventually makes a nice shade tree if grown out in the open. Doesn't like wet soil, but is tolerant and hardy of both wet and dry, and shade.

    There are other trees, but I'm partial to natives. You could grow cottonwood or other poplars, but a lot of folks don't like the fuzzy seeds they produce. Maybe you could get some seedless ones, but I don't see this tree often in local nurseries. Most fast growing poplars die fast too, so they might be good to plant quick until the other stuff gets going and then use as firewood. Ash is also a good fast growing tree, but they are having problems with european ash borer so I'd be a little cautious on that one. American elm was once a preferred tree for this kind of application, but dutch elm disease did it in. I've heard there are resistant varieties out there, depends on how adventurous/experimental you want to get.