Michael,
That is exactly what I needed. Thanks!
Rick

Nice set of slides. The only issue I have with the presentation is that it somehow suggests a single pruning shape, the one most commonly used in US commercial orchards.

I prefer the European approach which uses a technique of bending branches. The simple principle used is that vertical branches don't fruit, and horizontal branches don't shoot, unless they are pruned. Pruning is used only to thin branches, but the overall shape of the tree is determined by bending branches.

Also, some varieties have natural columnar pyramid shapes. For example, my pink pearl has the shape of a X-mas tree, with a strong central leader and branches that reach out horizontally. Other trees are shaped with an open center as is suggested in the slide deck. But to cut off all branches below 18 inches is ok if you want a tree that you have to harvest with a latter, but not for a tree you want to keep small. The best way to slow down the central leader so that the tree doesn't get too big is by encouraging the lowest branches to grow vigorously.

often, the bending happens naturally as I net my trees. The netting essentially bends down all the upper branches and the tree remains smaller. In our dry climate, I use MM-111 for drought tolerance, but I still aim to keep my trees below 10 feet. Except if the tree is very vigorous, such as for example spigold, which is now 15 feet tall.

A weeping shape is not a bad approach either, and works well for dwarf fruit trees, making them highly productive.

You're welcome Rick. Axel, I still think it would be far preferable to able to take some classes to learn more of the intricacies without making so many mistakes along the way. One of the prices paid by living in the sticks. I do appreciate your comments. By the way, got any ideas for training a (now don't laugh) Yarlington Mill on Bud9. I expect to have to permanently stake it and perhaps maypole the bearing branches. Other than that, what form might be best to train it to.
Michael

Nice slides!

I'm finding that I like many sources for info on pruning. Whether it's this forum, my books, YouTube videos, or other sites like these. The only thing is that often these bits of advice contradict due to pruning styles, climate, native pests, etc, so often I have to take them all with a grain of salt. Example was my "no heading cut on central leaders" post, or how these slides say no pruning here in early winter, but people here say you can almost do it any time (I want to do it in early winter to minimize my dormant sprays). Anyway, thanks again for the slides link. -Glenn

I agree Glenn: for me the difficulty can be sifting through the piles of info and then determining what applies to me not to mention what works.

Thanks also, Axel. Forgot that in my last post.