I would do it asap. As soon as the ground is dry enough. I see no advantage to waiting.

There's still a threat of hard freezes, heavy snows or high winds messing with it before it has a chance to start spreading roots.
But I can throw some bags of leaves around it hold it up and protect it.

All I know is if I wait for mail order shipping time it would be too late.

Do it as soon as you can get a shovel in the ground. I moved a pear tree and there was still a little frost in the ground a few years back. Its done great. I need to move several trees but i still have 6 inches of snow on the ground.

About 2" of frozen soil on top or less is my approach - as long as the roots themselves are not iced it can be dug up and moved, and the earlier the better unless its a Pawpaw. A pick-axe is used to bust through the frozen dirt. Note that if you are not sure how shallow the roots are or how frozen the soil is, then you may want to wait. I move trees year-round in my climate. I had several 8-year apples that took a long time to dig up so I did them in January when I had nothing else to do.

Scott

If it's just as easy to move now, fine, do it. As long as you do it by bud swell you won't lose anything. The soil is probably much to cold to get any pre budding root growth.

I've never noticed a difference here between march and early april planted trees and I'm in Z6 southeastern ny.

"The soil is probably much to cold to get any pre budding root growth."

That's a good unintended point. The place I'm moving it to should warm faster.

Scott-
Must be nice to be able to get a shovel in the ground in January. Around here the ground has been frozen since early December. Frost depth is over a foot down right now with 5ft soil temps sitting at 36F... ugh.

I don't believe spring root growth begins with any significance until top growth starts, at which time you get your main flush of growth both up and down within about a month with apples and pears. I've noticed that apple roots seem to send out another smaller spurt of root growth in fall. Pear roots are harder to observe.

I have had to re-plant some things so things planted in e.g. Feb I dug up in Mar/Apr, and they had fresh white roots growing on them. So, for some trees they do get some root development doing right after transplanting. I don't remember what tree types I observed this on, and the fact that my soil temps are warmer than yours may help get my trees going sooner. Our ground is frozen only about half or less of the winter months here.

Scott

scottfsmith wrote: "the earlier the better unless its a Pawpaw."

Just curious -- what is your reasoning behind the statement and what are your experiences moving paw paws?

I'd like to compare your experiences to mine, which are that paw paws are generally NOT easy to transplant, but it can be done if you try to get as much of the root as possible (especially trying to get a piece of the "mother" root in the case of suckers), and it should be done before any of the buds begin to break, which means no later than about the start of daffodil time.

TIA

Moved it last night. I don't think the G11 put out much root growth all last summer. I was surprised since the chip bud shot up a good 5' last year. I was expecting a root ball.

Dennis, pawpaw roots don't seem to do anything during dormant season so the wisdom is to move pawpaws just before dormancy ends for the least shock. Moving them after any buds break is even worse than moving in midwinter, I didn't mean to imply they should be moved then.

Scott

Scott, do you remember at what state the trees were on top? April/March could well be at least silver tip where you are.

I have several paw paws in containers that probably should be planted out this spring. I'll have to do it asap, once the snow melts (if it ever does!).