Apple is very easy to take. Just a simple cleft graft is fine. Just make sure both sides line up.

Tony

Sometimes I do a cleft or whip & tongue or bark graft with a chip or bud behind it. That way if the other grafts don't take the chip or bud have a chance to take off. So you can have your cake and eat it too.

But like Tony says, grafts on apple are pretty likely to take. And, the grafts done "in line" are probably stronger than buds or chips, at least initially. Sometimes a well-done whip and tongue will almost disappear, it blends so well. It certainly looks like it should be stronger, anyway!

Just remember: the scion or bud need to be dormant when grafted to take. Once they start to swell and open up your chances of success are much lower. Nevertheless, if the graft does callous over without the graft appearing to take it may still succeed the following season, as secondary dormant buds, free from the oppression of their elder buds, emerge.

Also, if a graft callouses without buds opening up you can often encourge them by scoring the tree directly above them. Cut a shallow groove about 1/8" wide and down through the cambium to the wood and remove the little strip. Make the cut long enough to interrupt the flow of hormones from above the graft.

Good luck.

Thanks for the help!

Currently I'm using cleft, saddle, rind , whip, side grafting techniques. I use whip and saddle for small wood. Rind and and cleft for large wood. I use side grafts for stone fruits.

This post was edited by ClarkinKS on Sat, Mar 15, 14 at 12:44

Here my preferred method.

Here is a link that might be useful: Konrad's modified bark grafting

You can also chip bud them in summer, but its slower because you have to wait until the following spring to see growth...but I have had almost 100% on apples.

Kyyada nothing wrong with a chip graft if that is what you are comfortable and confident with when grafting onto rootstocks. Just make sure the cambial layers match up on at least one side of the cut.