Spring through summer, you're supposed to fertilize regularly. "Weakly weekly" as they say. You're also supposed to fertilize once in late October or early November and once in February. A houseplant fertilizer like Miracle Grow should do the trick, anything that isn't higher than 10% in Nitrogen.

Your Christmas cactus might benefit from a cooler room. If you have a spare room where you can cover the heat vent halfway you'll probably see more buds, if not this year than next. A room that's too warm can inhibit bud growth.

If you have a spare room where you can cover or block most of the heat, you should see many more buds, if not this year, then next fall.
Also, make sure it's getting enough water when it close to dry and give it plenty of bright light during the day. It could even be right in front of a north window and it'll still have buds/flowers on every leaf tip.

Those tiny bud stems can be delicate. If the plant is turned, the buds will turn their little heads in the other direction towards the light and you could see bud drop occur, so wait until the buds are least a half inch in length or longer before turning your plant.

Billy Rae

My cactus is limp - over or underwatering - ???
SHould I cut it back and hope for the best?

Gabriell, in your zone 8 location, do you put your Cactus out of doors when spring sunshine and warm temperatures return. Or, do you just keep these plants strictly as houseplants?

Christmas Cactus can be cared for either way but it is much preferred by many that the plant should go outside after all chance of frost has passed.
Into a bright location where sunlight can reach them....but never, directly.
Some exposures are preferable during their time out of doors.
Western, southern and eastern sun can give to the C.C.'s what they prefer....strong growth.

Northern sun locations are limited in their intensity; especially during late fall, through winter and early spring.

Generally C.C.'s like to be alllowed a little nip of cool.
In northern areas, low forties and high thirties are what will bring about buds. Before being touched by frost, they are then brought indoors to a sunny window.....sunny, being the sunniest window you can find. Southern, western esposures are preferred. Eastern exposure during fall days is not really sufficient to promote bloom. Northern exposure should be left out of the question entirely...its just not strong enough.

So, give your Christmas Cactus the best sun you can arrange...south or west is best. If you cant give them such sun for one reason or another, try to raise them. Put them on a table or pedestal.
If you must place them in an eastern exposure, then maybe think to give them extra light by way of artificial light.
Don't even think about a northern exposure.

In your zone 8 location, you may have a problem giving your C.C.'s such coolness during early autumn in order to set buds. But, do try to give them as much coolness as you can arrange. Sunlight during late fall shouldn't be a worry...even if they were to be placed directly in such sun.
The intensity of such sun shouldn't bother them a bit...but use some discretion about just how much sun you give them.

The end all of this question is: You are not giving yuor Christmas Cactus enough light. They depend on light to make them bloom.

Whether you feel you should fertilize is up to you. If you feel you have not fed the plants enough, then give them some 10/10/10 at 1/2 rate...not sufficient to promote growth but enough to keep their health.
With the low sun values, promoting growth at this time is not in the best interest of the plant.

Txmom, wilting is a condition the plant may show signs of too much sun or heat, too much or not enough water, or a poor growing location.
Try moving your plant to a better exposure. Western or southern sun is best for plants at this time.
Always water til drainage is seen in the saucer below, then dump what excess is in the saucer.
Then allow the plant to dry down between waterings and when you water, again water to drainage and dump the excess.

You cant give your plants too much sun at this time of season. If your plant is in direct path of heat from a heat vent, then it should be moved. Such heat can change the temperature of the soil too quickly leading to increased watering which may be not needed at the roots.
Water sitting at roots can increase the chance of rotting.

If your plant is wilting due to underwatering, then when you water to drainage, it should perk up in a short time.
If it doesn't then you know the problem wasn't due to watering. You cant over water a plant that has been overwatered. Like you cant give a cold to a person who has a cold. You just have to hold off any further watering until the plant dries down normally.
Plastic pots hold water longer than clay pots. Clay pots absorb water and may contribute to increased amounts of watering.

When fertilizing any houseplant, water it first, then use liquid fertilizer.

Once a CC sets buds, it can be put in front or off to the side of any window, including a north window, no bright light, or sun required after it set buds or after the buds open.

I had that was over a hundred yrs old in a north window once it set buds outdoors in the fall and was brought indoors, it never lost buds, it always had tons of flowers, sometimes two per stem and that was the only light it had indoors.
Unfortunately, I over-watered it after having it for many years, I was sick over that, but thank goodness I was able to get a cutting back from cuttings I gave away at an earlier time.

Billy Rae

Thanks so much for the advice. I will put plants outside when it gets warm. Also think maybe I have not watered enough. I was under impression they were not to be watered so often. My mistake.