In a very high % of cases, burned leaf margins are a symptom of over-watering and/or a high level of dissolved solids (salts from fertilizer and tap water) in the soil. If you feel confident you're watering before the soil becomes completely dry, you can almost be sure it's one or both of the aforementioned.

There isn't a fix that will restore the appearance of the damaged foliage, but you might be able to reverse the trend by flushing the soil thoroughly, then removing the plant from the pot and setting it on a pile of newspapers, old towels, or something else absorbent that the plant won't dislike. After a half hour or so, you can return it to the pot and start on a monitored watering/fertilizing regimen.

I'll help with more specific instructions and any explanations you might like. In the meanwhile, you'll probably find some worthwhile reading about ficus in containers if you click the embedded link.

I can help you with a plan you can put in place next summer that will rid the plant of the unsightly leaves, but for now they should stay - the leaves are where the plant's food comes from, and it wouldn't be prudent to remove any of them until next summer.

Let me know if you're interested and want to explore further.

Al

Al, it is really okay to take it out of the pot like you say above at this time of year? Could not one also change up the soil before putting it back in the pot or should that wait until summer also?
Pat

Hi Al
Thanks for your answer, i had a feeling it was possible overwatering as at the end of the last summer it started raining
quite a lot before i brought it in indoors. (It hasnt stopped here in the UK, wettest winter since records began) Since its been indoors though since october i have been watering it sparingly but i presume the damage had already been done.
Dont think it was over fertilization and the plant was re-potted in the middle of the summer.
Im thinking o f just cutting it down to encourage new growth and give the bottom bit time to catch up.
Sounds like a lot of fuss for just a little plant but i hate anything dying on me and the plant doubled in size las year as we had a good summer in the uk for a change.

PA - Her plant is healthy enough (at least in the picture) that it would tolerate a repot if it was done now, but the object of suggesting a summer repot has more to do with skirting how much it will tolerate now and planning around the time of year the plant is most able to deal with the stress of a repot, which includes a root-pruning and change of soil. That's best done when A) the plant's energy reserves are highest and B) when the plants current photosynthate (food) output is also at its peak. The effects of a repotting now might linger for 2 or more months after the work, while the same work done in summer might only impact the plant for a couple of weeks. During the time the plant is weakened, it's more susceptible to insects and diseases, so we want to work WITH the plant's natural rhythms instead of against them whenever we can.

If the plant was in imminent danger, a repot now would be in its best interest, but it doesn't appear to be, in the picture.

Juliande - I would indeed encourage you to either leave or remove the new shoot, and to cut the larger stem back quite a bit next summer. When you cut back, cut back just above a living leaf and make the thicker stem about 2/3 taller than the new shoot - even if that means cutting back the new shoot as well. Your plant won't look natural if the fat trunk ends up being shorter than the thin one. Your eye will tell you something is wrong, even if you can't quite put your finger on just what it is.

Let me know if you want/need anything additional in the way of help.

Al