Murphy's soap won't work as a release for concrete. You're using CONCRETE for your cast leaves?

I am using concrete for my leaves and backing them with tufa. I had a couple small leaves and experimented. The unpainted one worked pretty good. Had a painted one and it pulled part of the paint off which I expected. With the leaves being so small they didn't have deep veins so didn't get results I would of liked. I didn't have trouble getting the silicone off tho. I'm now working on a chard leaf that has more texture. Maybe this one with more veins and ruffled edges won't come off as easily.

Just to make sure, you are working with concrete which is portland cement, sand and gravel. If you look on this forum many people that are starting out confuse concrete with mortar mixes or plain cement and all are different.
Regarding leaf casting, concrete usually isn't used because the gravel doesn't always settle around the veins so you get voids. I'm assuming from your questions that you are new to this medium.
Just asking to be sure. Billie

I am useing quickcrete for the leaves. Then putting tufa on the back to add a base so they will sit. I made most of them last yr, some 2yrs ago and they have been outside all winter so they seem to be holding up. I'm using quickcrete as I think it gives a smoother look to the leaves. All of my pots are portland, perlite/vermiculite and sifted peat. They have been out all winter and are doing fine so far. I'm using a 1-1.5-1.5 mixture. Maybe I should use a different mixture with tufa to get the same smooth results. The turfa I use is pretty rough/and doesn't seem to look as good for the leaves.

This is why we ask so many questions. You are not using quickcrete. Quikrete is the name of the manufacturer of many products which one of their products are you using.
Regarding leaf castings, I use hypertufa (equal parts portland cement, sand and peat moss) because I like the irregular surface. I also use a mortar mix for leaf castings with minimal voids and very smooth surface.
I don't understand why your hypertufa mix is rough since you say you are sifting the peat moss unless you aren't using horticultural grade perlite or vermiculite. There are tons of recipes and I'm sure you'll find the one you like. I use several for different applications. Billie

Here is a link that might be useful: Quikrete

I'm home now and the bag of Quickcrete says sand/topping mix. Yes I did know that it was the brand name but didn't go out to double check what the exact product was. I asked HD which one would be the smoothest, had the finest sand and that is what I bought and have used it since. What are you calling mortor mix? I haven't tried just portland sand and peat. I've always added horticultural perlite or vermiculite with no sand. So will it be smoother without the perlite/vermiculite and adding sand. I have been buying sm. bags of perlite/vermiculite. I finally found a source for large bags and they are horticultural grade. I bought vermiculite because I'm thinking it would be a smoother surface altho I did read that it will be heavier. Aanother question. I know we are way off the subject but it just seems to be the two of us on this post. The top edges of the pots I'm making with an inside mold are uneven. I didn't give it alot of thought until I made on over a plant tray that is very even. I will give it more attention the next time but can a person file them or something to make them more level?

Ladycraft,
QUIKRETEª Sand (Topping) #1103 Mix consists of a
uniformly blended mixture of sand and
Portland cement and other ingredients
approved for use in high strength mortars.
The Sand Topping Mix # 1103 is a 1 part Portland cement and 3 part of sand ratio.

Portland mixed 1:3 sand, is basically a mortar mix. Your Quikrete has other ingredients, like admix, and fortifiers in it. Trying to file it down at this point, would probably wear out the file...lol
So if you look at any of the mixes for Hypertufa, you could safely add perlite, peat, or vermiculite to your base ingredient. Don't go beyond a 1:6 ratio! your mix is already 1:3...so adding 3 more parts is ok. You won't lighten up a lot, as you are using a mix with 3 parts sand in it, so keep that in mind. I got my info from a Quikrete rep. He said it would work for planters etc. If you look close at their site, they have the instructions for making square and round planters.
If BEFORE you leach, you could add feet, or level the top edge with additional mix.......but you may see the difference, if the original mix and the 2nd batch aren't exactly the same....

Hope it helps...just my 2 cents worth
Marcia

PS, Hi Billie!

That's why we ask questions, you started with concrete and now we know your working with a topping mix,"repair cement".
What Marcia said, mortar is portland cement, lime and sand.
The Perlite will make the mix lumpier (is that a word?). I just don't care for the little white bits. Portland, sand and peat moss is the original recipe for hypertufa. They use to leave the peat moss chunky so you would have largish holes in the surface as the peat deteriorated. Made little nooks and crannies for moss to grow.
Well, since it's just the two of us and Marcia do you have a name? LOL
You can add a new top to the cured uneven planter but as Marcia said it will be noticeable. One way around that is to buy some dye and add it to the mix for the top edge. This is where an arcylic fortifier would help to bond the two mixes together. You could also make a decorative top edge so it's not noticeable, decorate with small stones or glass marbles or carve a design. If your uneven planter top isn't cured you can use a brick or piece of concrete as a sander and sand it flat. Works pretty fast. You can turn it up side down on a piece of old concrete or flat stone and slide it around in a circle to sand it even. This is for uncured not cured. Hope this helps.
Things are slow around here in the Winter but more people will start to post once it starts to warm up.
Night, mystery girl and Marcia. Billie

Yes I do have a name, it's Kathy. I do this mostly at work between 5am -6am, maybe still asleep and in a hurry because they don't like me slowing down the system. I normally add it, don't know where I've been with that. Part of my problem is we live in a tourist area and common things are hard to find. I must of made a hundred called before I could find the lg. bags 40 miles away. I think I use the Quickrete because it is easier than dragging all the stuff out. I'm working on the deck and drag things in the house right now. Spring is close enough maybe I can get organized again. I am open to doing away with the Quickrete if I can get the smoother results with something else. It would eliminate one thing I have in the shed. I use portland when I mix tufa but haven't used the sand. I can only get play sand here. Maybe I need to see if I can locate some finer sand. What are you ladies using for leaves? Thanks for the all the info. Kathy

Kathy,
I use sand I get at the 'gravel place. It works fine, cost is a $1.00 for a 5 gal bucket. fairly fine. Portland usually comes in 90# bags. Then the bags of sand...and keep covered....(especially if you have cats around) :-)) Then any other ingredients, like peat...so you won't be saving on the 'clutter. I put my Port in 5 gal buckets, and seal them up tight, so they do not get moisture. the qwikcrete #1103 is ok to use, if the smaller bags are ez'er to handle. I have used it. But make sure you shuffle the bag around to mix the ingredients well before you open....port settles to the bottom.
and smoothing........you can apply saran wrap to the back side, and smooth over that.......
Marcia

I removed the mold from the chard leaf and it worked fine or at least it looks good. Now I'm going to try the method you posted Marcia.
Marcia, then the play sand may be ok I just thought I read that they were using something finer. I tend to get confused when there are so many versions that work well for others. I guess it is just experimenting. I use the 5gal. buckets for the portland and kitty litter buckets for the Quickcrete. Yes I have cats but try to keep the sand covered too. Thanks Kathy

Kathy, Yay, congrats on the success with the leaf mold! Ohh, do you live in "B" town. A friend of mine visited and loved the shows.
It makes things easier if you use the name of the product and not the name of the manufacturer. They make so many products that we don't always know which product you're talking about. You are using portland cement and topping mix.Plus there are other manufacturers besides Quikrete (and you're definitely not using Quickcrete)
You can use just about any sand, no beach sand though due to the salt content. Builders sand is recommended because the sand has sharp edges and the bonds are stronger in a large application. Not a problem with planters and stuff.
Regarding what we're using for leaf castings, just about anything that has good veins. Sometimes it's hard to tell if a leaf will work. I make sample tiles to test the which ones work in this area. There's nothing like making a planter or leaf casting only to unmmold and have little or no imprint from the leaf. The maples that I have here don't work but arrowwood is one of my favorites. I'm not sure but I think someone that use to post here used an oak leaf that grows in your area. A lot of herbs and hosta work well. You really have to test what grows in your area. Later, I'm off to work. Billie

Yes we live about 10m. N of the "B" town. Was a real adjustment but am happy with decision to move this direction.
I understand about using the product name. I hadn't even thought about adding to the sand/topping mix. I now have another mold going using the warm water method. I had some water in the silicone and was afraid I would have bubbles. I ended up putting the silicone on the casted leaf and using water on the fingers. Like that alot more than using the gloves. Kathy

Kathy, I'm kind of the forum nag about naming the product that you're using. It's hard to help with a problem if you don't know what ingredients they used.
Even to people saying they don't know why something didn't turn out and they follow the recipe/directions exactly. There was a post last year like that. Turned out they weren't following the directions.
Hope you have a great time with this hobby, it's a lot of fun! Billie