I have never done any work like this so can't be much help. Just wanted to say I think your freeform tabletop shape came out great.
What is the next stage of the project? Will it be concrete or tufa or ????
Laura

thanks,
well, I am following the directions from in the mushroom topic below. In there, sarahsaid gave a site for these mushroom directions. It will be covered in quickwall. Cannot start that until I know I will be free to add the layers each day.
I have a few more "ribs" to add to the table and then I need to start the little chairs.

The shape looks great!!! I'm not sure but I think you may want a bit of rebar in there unless it's mostly for decoration.

Justin

I suppose I could run a few pieces of rebar for "ribs".could add them right next to the tomato cage wire that is to be one rib. Was making this for some little girls. So I do not know how strong it has to be. They usually do not climb on things and would use it accordinly.

But my impression of the ribs was for added support. Still think rebar should be added?

Well, I'm probably not the best person to ask for this sort of advice, but my hunch is three "L" shaped pieces placed vertically wouldn't hurt (in between the thinner wire pieces already there). That should add strength to the base and stabilize the table top to the base. There should be rebar with different diameters at Lowes. I think the 1/4" rebar should be easy enough to bend and will do the trick, but don't quote me on that ;-) Good luck, and keep the progress pics coming!

Justin

Dian,
I hope you got my e-mail from a couple days ago regarding how to keep the top of the toadstool looking curved without adding too much weight overall, especially to the top.
My thoughts about the strengh of your design. The base being tomato cage with hardware cloth then likely more than an inch of mix should be sufficient to suppor the top, however the top should not be any thicker overall than the stem/base. Where the ribs are can certainly be beefed up with mix. Make sure you pieces are firm and hard before turning things right side up for finishing.
Dena

Did not get your E-Mail.

I figured total inch wise would be 1- 1 1/2 thick. ribs may be a little beefier. I will either add rebar or the PVC through center to add 2 more ribs for a total of 5 per your suggestion. Unfortunately have not gotten any more done since I posted pictures
thanks

Dena,
Running a piece of PVC through the center of the table to give 5 "ribs" does not work since the angle of the 3 ribs from the tomatoe cage is such that any way you do it, one cage rib will have to run through the piece of PVC which you cannot do because the vertical part of the cage is in alignment with the cage rib. So you cannot pass a piece of anything through the cage.
So it looks as though I can either add a few pieces of PVC in between cage ribs and HC over that or just plain HC ribs inbetween cage ribs.
thanks boy, that was long winded
dian

I added additional pictures showing the PVC wired to the armature. I think If I use this, the overall thickness may be too much? I would guess it would have to be at least an inch and a quarter underneath to cover PVC pipe and a 1/2 inch on top? If I use rebar,I could go with less quickwall underneath. The over all weight of the rebar + quickwall would probably be less considering I would have to add more quickwall for thickness to cover PVC
Thoughts???
Thanks

Dian,

Ahh, not sure if this will make sense. The weights rebar or pvc may end up being very similar. With the wire cover over your ribs, the idea is NOT to fill the rib with mix, but to put a thin coat of the damp concrete/mortar on the wire. The pvc/rebar is there to maintain the firmness of the form.
I read over the toadstool directions, and she is using a slurry with a couple of layers.
What I had written to you in an e-mail, never to arrive, was how to maintain the drop on the table top, since you will be putting the first layer of mix on while everything is turned up side down. While all is up side down, use bunches of plastic bags or rolled plastic to support the (upward) curl (remember it is now upside down). The plastic will allow for the slurry to go on with out forming a flat top that would weigh a ton when the mix falls through. In addition to the plastic rolled around the edges of the table top, remember to lay a piece of plastic down under the whole shrroooom. I would suggest doing the stem first then the underside of the top.
Dena

I believe the slurry is the last coating to smooth things out and or add a swirl design in. She uses a paste consistancy of qwuickwall for the initial layers. From reading it, the impression I got is that she fill her ribs up with the QC. So with the rebar or PVC and wire, I just need a light coating on these?

I a sorry. I must be really dense but I am not visualizing the curl and plastic part. Is the plastic being left there? is it rolled in under the curve?

light bulb going off here (I HOPE) after re reading mucho times. Rolled bags under the curve on the OUTSIDE of the table to prevent the curve from flattening out when applying cement to inside (underneath) of shroom??
sure takes me a long time to "get it". appreciate your patience

Dian,
Yes to your last post. The bags are under the top, while you are working on the inside of the underside.

Now back to the 'she uses a paste consitency for the initial layers'. I have found for me using the pattie method, letting that set up, then using a paste consistency over that fills in any holes and does not require a lot of layers. I will see if I can find a pic that best shows the patties/cookies then a slurry/paste.
Dena

Dian,
I do not want to confuse you. The directions the person gives on her mushrooms is really good.
My preference for the patty method comes from a class that I took. Here is an album that has a small project from a couple years ago. Scroll through to see what the patties look like and then the next couple pics show what the 'paste' looks like when it is smoothed on over the patties, and believe it or not the paste will really fill in the holes left by the patties and you can smooth out everything really nicely.
I look forward to seeing how you do.
Dena

Here is a link that might be useful: pattie method behind the fence

sounds like a good plan. So I will cover everything in patties.
1 more question when I cover with the "paste", on the scones it was the same consistency as the patties but without fibers. I would do the same consistency to cover patties for 2 layers say, and then make it a little thinner to top it all off?
You have been a great help and it is much appreciated. This has really helped me get a feel for working with this material.
By the way, I have been following your creativity for quite a few years now and to say the least, I am very impressed.
thanks again for your time
much appreciated
dian

Dian,
If it makes you feel more secure cover with two sets of patties, however I do not think more than one is necessary. The fibers are an optional thing. I use them when I am doing something like this so that the patties will grab to the mesh. Your thinner coat can be thinner than the patties and I tend to make mine thinner. You will get the hang of what consistency works for you really quickly once you start on your project. Even though patties or a first coat appears dry, even to the touch, it may not be quite ready to move. In fact I would say complete the underside to a smooth texture first and definitely the stem. Then allow to harden for a few days before uprighting it. Have someone assist you turning it over. Once over support the underside of the shroom top while you are working on the top, sy a couple of 2x4s propped. Once everthing is hardened and cured there should be no problem, I think it will be very strong.
I have a couple projects curing right now and once the color is on them I will post them.
this stuff is so fun,
Have a creative weekend,
dena

thanks dena
that was what I was wondering. the coat that you spread over the patties is a little thinner. Then the final smoothing coat can be thinner yet if I so desire or leave as is with 2 coats of what I put over the patties.
thanks
dian

Finally got the table all wired. Now that I am looking at it, I am wondering if I should cut A hole in the stem and push the PVC through a little and anchor it to the round metal part of the cage. Thinking that would provide more support between top and stem???
what do you think Dena?

4 more pictures added of finished wiring

Here is a link that might be useful: toad stool table