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Tufa texturing techniques

21 years ago

Can anyone tell me of various techniques for texturing wet or 'green' tufa? Any info at all would be much appreciated!

Thanks,

Slate 1

Comments (15)

  • 21 years ago

    I think my favourite tool is the steel brush. The bristles are super strong. I brush in the same directions if I want the textured lines to go the same way. If I don't want obvious lines, I brush agains the grain, so to speak.

    I'll see if I can come up with a few pics of the texturing I've done with this tool, and I think I took a pic of the brush as well.

    Be back later.

    Marly

  • 21 years ago

    Hi Marley!
    How you doin? I particularly liked your old aged stone look finish on your antique water vessel. Looked like it came right out of an archaeological dig! Like most of the best things in life, it's probably really simple, IF you know how,
    Look forward to your suggestions,
    Slate

  • 21 years ago

    Slate,

    I agree with marly 100% My other fav tool is just scraps of steel lath folded in various shapes. A flat piece of it works wonders for "sanding" green tufa down to a smooth surface.

  • 21 years ago

    Slate believe it or not a big DRY sponge dabbed, not rubbed, hard against tufa right after it's put on the mold gives a very nice finish.
    Removes trowel marks and tends to take out bumps and indentations.
    Try it, you won't believe the difference.

    My steel and brass brushes are a must BUt my rasp is my bread and butter tool. It allows 'carving' pretty nifty curves and dips.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Tufa rasp to die for.

  • 21 years ago

    OK Slate, I'm back with pics!

    Here is the steel brush I love... it is to the left of the green toothbrush. These were some of the tools I was using a lot at the beginning and have now narrowed it down to a few faves.
    {{gwi:70006}}

    This is one example of the steel brush... just plain tufa and an obvious line grooved into the tufa.
    {{gwi:70007}}
    Another of the same technique but the tufa had perlite in it... REALLY affects the results. Chunks of perlite can pop out on you as you are brushing.
    {{gwi:70008}}
    This one is of the steel brush but with the brushing in all directions. It really brought out the texture nicely.
    {{gwi:70009}}

    In the water vessel... I guess I did use a brush for the texture... not the steel brush but a plastic bristle brush. It is in the pic but the bristles are under it! I believe I just gently brushed it in a circular motion to get that effect.
    {{gwi:70010}}

    I hope these pics have helped you out a bit. Just experiment with a simple bowl planter and use what you have on hand... use a nail brush, toothbrush, etc. You can go out and spend a lot on equipment but my favourite place is the old dollar store and yard sales!

    Take care,

    Marly

  • 21 years ago

    Marly--No matter how many times I see your work I am always in AWE! Even have you bookmarked for inspiration.
    Paws

  • 21 years ago

    To each of you, a very BIG THANK YOU!!!!!
    Appreciate the help so much.
    Marly, so kind of you to post pics for a beginner. The simplest thing can be such a mountain to someone who doesn't know how to begin. What you all are doing is a boon to those just starting out.
    One question though, at what stages are each of these tools used?
    Tufaenough, thanks for the DRY sponge directions, obviously after the tufa is laid up and still wet, but are the other tools restricted to a window, eg, within the first 24 to 48hrs?
    And if I wanted to Acid Stain the piece, will it take to Tufa, and stain at about 2 to 4 wks, depending on conditions?
    Thanks again all,
    Slate

  • 21 years ago

    Here! Here! Paws... (on the Marly pics).

  • 21 years ago

    I have found that the best time is between just set and the next 24 hrs. It gets more difficult to work the harder it sets.

    Sue

  • 21 years ago

    I think the finish on that piece in picture 2 (the one immediately below the tools) makes it a masterpiece.

    It's better than things I've seen on some Internet Garden Art sites at prices running into the thousands of dollars.

  • 21 years ago

    Slate, like Sue said, I find that I do most of my texturing during the 24 hours after it hardens. I usually make the piece and let it sit overnight and then get started at the texturing in the morning. If I am carving something, I will do that about 3 or 4 hours after I made the basic form. After carving, I let it sit overnight once again and do the texturing the next day.

    Marly

  • 21 years ago

    Does anyone trowel their work, or am I the only one?

  • 21 years ago

    Oh my, Marly. You've been making some lovely things. Did you use the life casting you did awhile back to make that amazing face planter? Wow!!!

    Deb

  • 21 years ago

    Thanks Sue & Marley for the details.
    And I agree with you Herb, I went to an art exhibition/sale in Sydney, ( Australia), the various artists had pieces (sculptures) ranging from $2000 AUD and upwards, and I see work here on the forum, that is of similar standard! Different, but up there.
    I too, looked at L&L's site, and love some of the stuff, but I can't help thinking I'd like to see an exhibition, even on-line, of the best of the creative works done by the folks here on the Tufa forum. I bet there's a lot of interesting stuff that hasn't been posted here yet. ( And tutorials!) The best thing about this place is, so many talented people are willing to share their knowledge.
    Refreshing...
    Slate

  • 21 years ago

    My favorite tool is a welder's brass brush. With it's thin width, I am able to carve out a groove easily. It has more 'bite' on the concrete so the work goes faster for me. Also I use a tire repair awl/reamer. I can write with it and the sides work well at a detail file.
    -Allison

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