Sand is not in your recipe...I would highly recommend this if you want longevity. Your perlite is High too that will make it lighter which is good but will weaken it too. Ican't help you with sealers as I have not dabbled in this.

Edited to say posted twice

This post was edited by Collectorplant on Tue, Jul 23, 13 at 19:45

I found the recipe online and didn't have the peat so substituted with coir.
So am I right in saying that you don't believe the pots will be strong enough to last many years?
Can you advise me on a what would be the best recipe to use in future?

I do appreciate your help themes.

Does anyone know if Billie ann still visit this forum. I think I read somewhere that she had been making hypertufa for many years.

Thank you Billie ann for your advice. .you truly are a Darling!!!
So appreciate your help ...you are generous to a T with the advice you give!!

Hi Billie ann~ Long time since I've been back to Garden Web. It's wonderful that you're still here, helping folks new to tufa.
You always give good advise!
Collectorplant... you can always count on Billie ann's tips.
But....One question, ..... what is coir? I know I've been away awhile, but can't seem to remember hearing that name before.

Hi Mertie, coir is ground up coconut husk. It's growing more popular in soilless potting mixes. I don't know for sure but I think they sell it in compressed bricks.
There have been a lot of people on this forum that have shared ideas and tips. Unfortunately some of the "greats" have been banned. I still don't understand what happened and if you try to mention them you get "warned" about your post.

Thanks, Billie~ Now that you mention it, I do remember that they were using that as an alternative to peat.
We definitely don't have coir in my area, not that I've ever seen anyway.
Hmmmm... about that "other".... that's weird!

Billie
Im relatively new to tufa , made small pots using1 part portland cement 1.5 peat moss and 1.5 perlite. Now, id like to make bigger pots, 18 inch cube planters and am curious about your comment re no need for fibers to reinforce.
Shd I substitute perlite for sand ? Add concrete fortifiers?
So appreciate your expertise. thks

pattypool, Fibers are used in the concrete industry for mixes for bridge abutments and other large structures. Are you building a bridge abutment or anything that large?? I'm only joking. All the "fiber" talk came from people experimenting and using different things that they heard about or read about. I've heard people are using abrasive blasting medium. I've used a super fine sand for some jewelry pieces.
Not sure why you'd want to substitute Perlite for sand. I always use sand in my mixes for strength. I don't use fortifiers any more.

Can you use palm peat instead of peat moss in hypertufa mix? I can get palm peat in compressed blocks, which swell in water, then dry it to substitute peat moss?

Beverly, I see no reason why not. If it is very dry, I might moisten it slightly before I used it. However the best test is to try it!

I'm confused about the curing time. One source said two months, another a couple of days, others wrap loosely in a plastic bag, still another plastic bag and spritz with water daily???? I'd love to give this a try, but I really need help with the curing process.

Hypertufa is made with portland cement. If you google curing cement you will find the answer to your question. - search "Curing Cement"

Curing is a process that requires the item you are making to remain damp or maybe wet ( either is fine) to properly cure. Note - Curing is not drying ( you do not want it to Dry) How you keep it damp or wet could vary by what you want to do. After 1 day I unmold and I place the hypertufa in a garbage bag and twist l the end of the bag, that should keep it damp for a day or several. You should look inside the bag periodically and it begins to dry, the re wet the item. You could spritz, or spay with a hose, or take out and wet in a bucket. Bottom line you do not want it to dry. Drying stops the curing process.

2 months is too long.

Keep damp in the bag for about 2 - 3 weeks. The concert web sites will say 28 days. Which is good if you can wait that long. The item gain the most strength after week 1, a little more strength after week 2 , and a little more after week 3. (The amount of strength it gains each week decreases) So if you google how to cure hypertufa 10 times you may find 10 different answers. In the classes I teach I suggest at least 2 weeks , 3 would be even better. Curing is especially important when you are making bigger hypertufa pieces.

It is also important to add the water gradually until you get to the consistency of a meatloaf mix, too much water in your mix could also impact the strength of the container. Also all this is impacted by how hot or how cold it is outside. Never below 50f . Above 90f is too hot and speeds up the process.

Like a turtle - slow and steady ( and damp)

Mike