The hickey really is that big. Try going to Lowes and getting smaller gage rebar (HD doesn't carry it). I got the giant hickey, but it won't help much for normal gage rebar unless you have a vice. You can wire the pieces together, as long as you overlap them 3-4 inches.

I snapped this last week; a grotto in a swimming pool by a local contractor; and you thought that tieing the tomato cage was tedious
{{gwi:70543}}

katie 006 --- Rustin is correct. They are about 3 feet in length (you need the leverage for larger rebar) and most deinitely require a vise or similar sturdy device to hold the bar while bending.

Another option that works great is a bench-top or floor mounted bending jig. They are made primarily for scrolling flat iron, but will easily handle 1/2" rebar. I found a bench-top model on sale at Harbor Freight for $49 bucks a year ago and just got around to installing it. Should have done it sooner. Works like a dream and makes short work of otherwise laborious tasks. I used it on a very tricky 8' bench commission I am working on right now and it probably saved me several days worth of work.

I just looked & they are now $69, but to my mind worth it. Below is a link that shows what they look like.

And you can definitely tie rebar with heavy gauge, soft iron wire. All of the "antique" Faux Bois was constructed that way and much of what is available today today still is. You just have to make sure that you have adequate overlap at all the critical joints. I prefer mig-welding because it is faster, stronger and more stable when fully assembled. It is also less prone to rusting, as the iron wire oxidizes very quickly. My frames are fully load-bearing since they are welded and I can create some forms that simply are not feasable as wired joints. Also, even the best "wire jobs" tend to be a little wobbly until they are encased in set concrete.

But simple shapes are simple to wire, so start small and see where it leads. My web guys are promising me that the new site will be ready for launch within two weeks (again). I have already uploaded the first installment in a very lengthly illustrated tutorial and I'm planning on another specifically on wiring armatures for the folks who are welderless. Anyone wanting to be on the call list can email me and I will be happy to include you. 'Til then, good luck, play safe and above all have fun.

All my best --- Tango

Here is a link that might be useful: Bench Top Bender

Wow Thanks to everyone for all the help. I am really excited to get started.

Tango, which welder are you using? I'm not welder-savvy, and the article below has got me curious,

thanks,
s_dog

Here is a link that might be useful: welder comparisons

Hey Dawg --- The little welder I use is somewhere around 13-15 years old and isn't even made anymore, but there are a host of better, cheaper units available these days from big names like Miller & Hobart. I really like the wire-fed, gas-shielded migs. They are by far the closest thing made to a monkey machine. As in, even a monkey could run one.

Personally, I'd stay away from any of the non-gas shielded units (aka; "Flux Core Migs")like the ones in your link. They are mostly famous for sputtering, spattering & generating toxic smoke. The "gas" that the shielded units consume is generally CO2 or a CO2 blend, so there is never anything flammable or explosive involved. It is there only to provide an inert atmosphere around the arc which makes for very clean welds.

The features I like most about this type of unit are...the head is very small and can get in tight spots...no "sticks" to constantly replace...the continuous feed wire is quite inexpensive compared to sticks...the power range is easily adjustable & can handle anything from about 1/4" plate (3/8" for the new 130 amp units) all the way down to very thin sheet metal which is something the sticks can't handle. I have even "welded" paper thin stucco lath to rebar with mine. A really great feature if you decide to try your hand at "metal sculpture" involving sheet metal.

Whatever you go with, try to find one that will plug into a standard 110v outlet (many require a 220v supply which severely limits where you can use them). Today you can find that type in power ranges up to about 130 amps (my old one is just 90 amps & a little underpowered). With all the discounters around & online, you can probably find one these days for around $3-400 bucks including a fancy little cart. I had to pay well over $500 for mine way back when and make my own cart.

But no matter which way you go...invest good money in the best helmet you can find. Eyeball replacement is always more expensive than even the best of them.

PS...I have a nationally recognized metal sculptor and welding teacher who is putting together a series of welding DVD tutorials for the new website, (which, by the way, perhaps just might possibly with any luck at all maybe at last finally keep your fingers crossed be up by next weekend). He's a great guy & terrific artist who has work in collections & galleries all over America. Personally, I am looking forward to finally learning from a pro how I'm supposed to be doing all this.

All my best ---Tango

Thanks for sharing your experience with that Tango. And you've already answered my next question, which would have been, "hey, the website, ETA?",

cheers,

sd