neptune:

The structure on the first tree with the V isn't ideal but it's workable. Cherries don't usually load up so heavy with fruit that they break. I'd leave it as is at least for now. But you might want to tie the two sides of the V together loosely by looping a rope or heavy string around them.

But cutting off the small side of the V isn't wrong either. In a few years you won't know you cut it off. This may be the correct method by horticultural standards but mostly I just want fruit as early as possible. Not pruning will do that.

The other tree looks fine to me as is for now. Later on you can trim it up higher if you want.

There aren't many fatal errors in pruning. Just lots of chances to correct flaws next time you prune. Experience is the best teacher. Most of the books don't help much. Your tree usually doesn't look like theirs. And your objectives may be different.

Heres a good start.

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/ag29.html

http://www.weekendgardener.net/how-to/prune-apple-trees.htm

http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pruning/fruit.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBrwFTYrlc4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VB8y5fKLzS8

fruitnut:

The structure on the first tree with the V isn't ideal but it's workable....But you might want to tie the two sides of the V together loosely by looping a rope or heavy string around them.

Thanks for the advice.

Experience is the best teacher. Most of the books don't help much. Your tree usually doesn't look like theirs. And your objectives may be different.

That's good to know. It seems that common sense plays a role in pruning as well.

Here's a good start....

Thanks for all the links, thisisme.

I have a Bartlett Pear Espalier that is not bearing fruit. I purchaced the tree 4 years ago with fruit on it. The second year it produced a ton of fruit, the third year none. This is the fourth spring and the tree had very few blossoms, so I suspect very few if any fruit. Any suggestions on what I may be doing wrong, pruned it in late Feb.

I recommend 'The Pruning Book', by Lee Reich. Pretty much anything that you would need to prune is covered in there, complete with pictures and detailed instructions.

OK, thanks for the recommendation, nanokitty.

I have several diseased fruit trees and need to correct some severe problems.

I planted two dwarf North star cherries about 15 years ago. They got huge-- about 30 ft. high. In their early years they were very productive. After about 8 years, both developed black knot; one died but maybe not from that. We tried to keep the stuff pruned out but never succeeded; it always came back even worse. The tree that remains is an unsightly mess. It's too tall to effectively prune out the infection with any tools or equipment we have (long handled loppers, a telescoping lopper with a rope). Note: We really can't climb ladders safely.

Unfortunately this tree is at a critical spot in our landscape, right in front of our house. Removing it would be a huge undertaking and would probably destroy other plantings as well. My preference would be to prune it severely and keep it sprayed as it grows back. I could live with it being cut back severely if that would restore it to a good-looking healthy tree a few years down the line. How feasible is this? If it can be done, how do we go about pruning it? The main branches are about 4"- 6" in diameter.
What would happen if we pruned it to 5' above the ground? That would give it three sturdy, well- spaced limbs. Would it develop new branches? Do cuts have to be made just above existing small branches? How does one help a tree like this develop fruiting branches?

How long do these trees normally live?

We also have plum trees in the back yard with black knot. We will deal with these the same way we will the cherry.

We also have apricots that are healthy but don't produce. They were supposed to be semi-dwarf but are easily 35 feet tall.

I've looked at books and online articles, and none of them seem to address these questions. I'd appreciate any help with this.

Thank you,
Janice

You could just start thinking of the cherry as a shade tree and not a fruit tree, if it's in a good place for that and a problem to remove.

Lynn Long of the Oregon State Extension is the cherry "expert" I find most often on the internet. Check out these articles:

http://www.goodfruit.com/Good-Fruit-Grower/March-15th-2006/Match-cherry-varieties-with-rootstocks/

http://www.goodfruit.com/Good-Fruit-Grower/May-15th-2010/The-KGB-revealed/

http://www.goodfruit.com/Good-Fruit-Grower/August-2008/UFO-8200cherries/

extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/pdf/pnw/pnw543.pdf

www.utahhort.org/talks/2002/LynnLTS.pdf

http://www.tfrec.wsu.edu/wvcclass/CMiller/CMiller.html

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/ag29.html

Janice, you might find this article helpful.

http://extension.oregonstate.edu/douglas/sites/default/files/documents/hort/Restoreoldappletrees.pdf

I suspect if you pruned it to 5' above the ground in one session it would die.

I suggest you get the trees in more vigorous growth by mulching them- 5' rings of 3" deep arborist wood chips will work. Additional N would be fine- a half cup of lawn fertilizer (around 25% N) just as they leaf out in spring and another a month later. Spread the fertilizer evenly. Pull the chips away from the trunk.

As they start growing next spring start pinching back growth of shooting tips to get more secondary branching. The weak crotched branches should be much more vigorously pinched to gradually deinvigorate them so the trunk tissue can wrap around them and make them strong.

Cherries produce too much big wood and what you need is lots of short fruiting shoots. By pinching back the leader of strong branches during the growing season you can gradually force a tree to form with less vigorous and smaller shoots. Commercial growers use a chemical to help make this happen but pinching when trees are in vigorous growth works pretty well.

You just have to let the straightest shoot that forms where you pinch grow at least twice as long as the other shoots (several shoots should grow near the point you pinch) before pinching again. The other shoots will form the fruiting shoots. This will force a straight limb with lots of secondary wood over time.

I have implemented a summer pruning system called developed by Lorette on a pear that has achieved the size I want. I obtained his book on his methods from a library book sale and during the winter when bored, read it. Very interesting. Originally developed for pears, works with apples, and stones.
Many different ways...
noogy