plz help

It's difficult to help because 'yellow leaves' can be symptomatic of a number of issues, and there isn't really enough in your post to zero in on.

It's difficult to give unvariegated spider plants too much light or heat. We don't know what you're fertilizing with or have any idea about how you're going about it. Yellow leaves can be from over-watering, nutritional deficiencies/toxicities, a high level of salts in the soil, cultural conditions that cause nutritional deficiencies, tight roots, soil compaction .....

Often, the best way to approach a problem is to cure it before it starts, IOW - learn to give the plant the cultural conditions it needs. This starts with your soil, which is the foundation of EVERY conventional container planting. If you start with a poor foundation, it's very difficult to build on it, and you'll be fighting it for the life of the planting.

I'm going to suggest a couple of threads for you to read. I think you will find them very helpful. If you have ANY questions, don't hesitate to ask.
This one is An overview of good growing practices.
This one goes into considerable detail about Soils for Container Gardening. The information/concept it explains probably represents the largest single step forward a container gardener can make at any one time.

Some spider plant tips, copy/pasted from, something I commonly leave on SP threads:
While necrotic leaf tips or margins can occur in this plant from over/under-watering, in fact, it's much more common for the actual cause to be a high level of soluble salts in soils. It's also commonly reported that this plant is particularly intolerant or fluoride, but it's still more common for the cause of leaf burn to be a high level of solubles, to which fluoride can be a contributor, than it is to be fluoride itself. WHEN there is a high level of salts in the soil, low humidity can be a contributor, but low humidity alone rarely presents an issue, it must be in combination with a high level of soluble salts in the soil or either over/under-watering.

Of course, you cannot correct the already burned tips (they won't 'heal'), but you can take steps to keep it from happening:

A) Most important is to use a soil that drains very freely. This allows you to water copiously, flushing the accumulating salts from the soil each time you water.

B) Fertilize frequently when the plant is growing well, but at low doses - perhaps 1/4 the recommended strength. This, in combination with the favorable watering habit described above, will keep soluble salts levels low, and keep levels from rising due to the accumulative effect we always see when we are forced to water in sips when plants are in water-retentive soils.

C) When watering, using rainwater, snow melt, water from your dehumidifiers, or distilled water also eliminates the soluble salts in your tap water and will go a long way toward eliminating or minimizing leaf burn.

D) If you make your own soils and use perlite, be sure the perlite is rinsed thoroughly, which removes most of the fluorides associated with it's use.

E) Allowing water to rest overnight doesn't do anything in the way of helping reduce the amount of fluoride (the compounds are not volatile), and it only helps with chlorine in certain uncommon cases, depending on what method of chlorination was used to treat your tap water.

Al

It may need to be fertilized

Teeng

If spider plant has yellow leaves it doesn't need to be fertilized. Spiders are very finicky, fertilizer may burn more leaves.