Can be posted under "Tools", but it sounds like a motor problem, common to lawnmowers too.

Kickback is usually a timing problem. Partially sheared flywheel key.

Thanks for responding to my problem.
I have taken the flywheel off and found the key was still intact.But I put a new one on and when trying to start after this I had the same kick back problem. However, this does appear to be a timing problem but I am lost at what to try next.
My problem began while using the splitter. I had a backfire and the engine stopped working and have never been able to start it again. Always get the occasional kickback after a few yanks on the stater cord. I replaced the carburetor, spark plug and coil. Set the coil gap to .007". But still the engine never turns over.
Hope someone has some ideas on what to try next!

The coil gap is usually .012, but do you have spark? How about compression. You should have some even with a compression release. Maybe you should try a leak down tester.

Thanks for the info. I do have spark. I removed the spark plug and tied the barrel to ground and while pulling on the starter rope, I observed a nice spark. The coil gap is .007". Which is about the thickness of a business card, which is typically what I have seen on YOU TUBE. I will re-gap the coil to .012" and try that setting.-

I have not done a compression test. Sounds like its the next step to try. How do I do this test? Can you be more specific on how to use a "leak down tester"?
Thanks for your suggestions.

I have only seen a similar problem like this which was hard to resolve. And it was a defective solid state ignition coil. There is a intelligent chip which retards the timing on start to make it easy.If you were in my area I would lend you a coil.
Anyway, I am interested in seeing what the problem is.
BTW what are the specs on the engine?

I don't have the specs on hand I always need to look them up. I use the model number to do this. Model number is 1206020182E1. Hope this is what you need.

Try setting the valves. I see that is a OHV engine.

Try setting the valves. I see that is a OHV engine.

Thanks.I'll mention this to the fellow I just hired to fix my problem.

I have a 10.5 hp OHV Briggs that was doing the same thing after I replaced the cylinder head gasket. The rope would jerk out of my hands, even while using both hands! Here is what I found wrong.

My engine has a "automatic compression release" feature that is affected by the intake valve clearance. When valve clearance is correct ( .005 cold ) the intake valve is held open about .025" for the first 1/2 of the compression stroke. At that point the intake valve begins to close and is completely closed about 2/3 the way through the compression stroke. I have not found any publication, nor have i disassembled the engine, to determine if this also happens as the engine is running or just during the cranking of the engine.

If you have excessive intake valve clearance ( mine was .037 ) then the intake valve is not held open releasing the compression . By the way, adjust the intake & exhaust valve clearance at TDC of the compression stroke.

I determined this by removing the blower and valve covers and watching the intake valve / piston / flywheel movement as I slowly rotated the engine by hand.

After all was put back together the rope can be easily pulled with one hand and the engine starts immediately.

I hope this explanation serves in solving your problem !
Mike

Most likely intake valve lash issue with the briggs if flywheel key is good .

How do you check the valves?

Feeler gauge , every engine has different valve lash settings . Utube has plenty of video,s !