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brian2412

Pruning Help - Cherry Tree (Photos Attached)

16 years ago

Hello, I'm new to the forum (and gardening), but have benefited a lot from others here. I've been reading all I can about pruning, and believe I have somewhat of an idea, but would like some advice from the group.

I've recently moved to Richland, WA (Eastern Washington) and have several trees that were growing in my yard that are struggling to say the least. We are zone 7 (although, probably closer to a high 6). My soil is like beach sand when I dig. I have plenty of water available, but this is a desert (hot summers, cold winters with minimal precip ~7 inches a year). At the recommendation of the local nursery, I added soil ammendments to try to help the trees (cutting out grass around the base) and mixing native soil with compost. I've also staked these younger trees to assist them with our high spring winds.

Attached are photo's of a "4 in 1" Cherry tree. My goals for this tree are to grow it much larger for shade and to produce fruit for my children to pick as they grow up (newborn and 2 1/2 years). I'm a little puzzled on pruning this because of the different varieties grafted on. The first photo is unedited. The second photo includes labels of the branches for easier discussion. The third photo shows my proposed pruning cuts (in red) and added spacers (in Orange - correct me if I don't need them). I planted this in early fall to replace a dead tree that the original occupants planted with the rootball still wrapped in plastic. I plan on pruning all of my trees in the late winter, but before spring (probably early February). Can you please give me advice? Thanks!

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Comments (5)

  • 16 years ago

    Spread out A B limbs what mean spread so straight out there going to be new hands that enjoy putting down on limbs in just short time. I'm not in area of cherry tree grow well so I'd prun for kids.

  • 16 years ago

    I detest those 4 in 1 trees because they never seem to end well. I also don't like being constrained in the shaping of a tree to basicly just trying to keep the 4 varieties in balance which is what you have to do. I can't see where the graft points are but the tree already looks like one variety is crowding out the rest. Not only do you need to work hard to create the balance with winter pruning but you best work on it while the tree is growing. Your tree has to be maintained as an open center with 4 scaffolds of about equal size each representing one variety.

  • 16 years ago

    Brian: You are faced with the main challenge seen on multi-grafted trees, the two varieties on the left are more vigorous than the others. You also say you want it much larger. That's not normal for cherry growers who are usually more concerned about netting for bird control and keeping the fruit within reach. But maybe you can grow a large top to feed the birds and shade your lawn and have a lower section for the kids. Richland is a big fruit area so maybe your birds will have other places to eat.

    If it were my tree I'd mainly cut back J and G, the two vigorous varieties, or in 10 yrs that is about all you will have left. I'd cut out those two vigorous top shoots on J and leave the three shoots below including one you are cutting out. This will slow that variety and spread the tree somewhat. And if you really want to even things up leave I and H as the top laterals on that variety. Then on G cut out the top shoot leaving two outward facing laterals as the new top. This repeated each yr will keep the varieties in balance.

    The cuts you have proposed are just going to slow bearing without balancing the tree or doing any significant shaping. Better to spread and shorten by cutting to laterals headed in the right direction. If you just want the biggest tree possible as soon as possible then don't prune at all.

    The Fruitnut

  • 16 years ago

    Thank you so much for your help. I'm new to this so all of the advice is helpful. Do you recommend putting spreaders on any of the branches?

  • 16 years ago

    Brian: Spreaders don't work well here due to high winds. Maybe they will stay in place better there. By all means spread if you think it necessary. But those biggest branches are too big/old/stiff to spread. It's only during the first yr of growth that you can spread the crotch.

    I have better luck tying the branches down to a stake on the ground. Spreading rather than pruning will bring your trees into bearing sooner so use it when you can.

    The Fruitnut