Forgot to add, when we repotted, we used a bark like "soil" we bought at Southern States that is meant for Orchids.

Hi coolbrz,

The following is all based on the assumption that you have a Phalaenopsis orchid, also called the moth orchid. TheyÂre the most commonly available orchid and I have seen some at my local IKEA.

The short version of my answer: sounds like not enough light and too much water.

The long version: I've always found that the directives to keep orchids out of direct sunlight are a wee bit over-emphasized. Like it or not, plants do need light and when you consider that the light levels drop by half for every foot from the light source, that bathroom counter probably feels like a dark cave to your orchid. So number one, you need to give it more light. Over the next two or three weeks, gradually bring it closer to the window in your bathroom. If your window gets sun until noon, it probably faces east or maybe southeast, so this will be fine for your orchid as long as you get it used to brighter light gradually (think of it as building a base tan). After that, you need to know that your orchid should be a in a pot just big enough to fit all of its roots. If there's lots of extra room, it takes the bark that much longer to dry, which means the roots don't get enough air (most tropical orchids are epiphytes, which means they more or less grow in the air, usually on another plant they use only as a support), which all equals root rot, a very bad thing. You also only need to water when the media is almost completely dry  the less light a plant receives, the less water it uses since it is almost dormant. Same thing with fertilizer  if the plant is not actively growing, it will not use the fertilizer, which will end up as excess mineral salts which can suffocate the roots. And finally, these orchids enjoy warmth. Daytime temps around 75 degrees are ideal. They enjoy slightly cooler nights, down to 60-65 degrees.

Finally, youÂll have to be patient. Even with the best of care, you have to realize that your orchid first has to recover before it can bloom again. And most plants now commercially available come from large growing operations that "force" orchids to bloom (think of it as putting orchids on steroids), so even in optimal conditions, it can sometimes take them a couple of years to bloom again. Your best bet might be to [cringe] start fresh with a nice healthy orchid where your TLC will get you quicker results.

IÂm enclosing a link below to culture sheets produced by the Canadian Orchid Congress. I find theyÂre the best for inside growers. Hope this all helps.

Julie

Here is a link that might be useful: COC Phal Culture Sheet

One way to water at the right time is to stick a skewer in the medium and leave it there. When you want to water, take out the skewer and see if it's wet or cool. that way you don't overwater. Others who know more about orchids can tell you how wet the skewer should be for your type of orchid.

The skewer should feel cool to the touch and just slightly damp. Only problem with the skewer method: wood + always wet = decomposition. You'll have to switch out your skewers often. I've always preferred the weight method - water your plant and then feel how heavy it is. Water when it's light again. Of course, heavy and light here are completely relative to the plant.

Julie gave you excellent advice. When we think of orchids we think of hot steamy jungles and we think that only our humid bathrooms or over the kitchen sink will be suitable for them. Not so. Orchids will grow in low humidity, but they will not grow without enough light. My orchids are on a table in my south facing window sopping up the light. The table is over my hot air vent with dispels hot dry air all winter, yet the orchids grow, thrive, and
bloom.

Your plant needs to be much closer to a window. If it is a phal, it can be in a north or east window up to the glass, or west window almost up to the glass. In a south window it should be back a couple of feet.