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aachenelf

Do you ever use glue for mounting?

18 years ago

I did today and thought it worked really well.

A very kind soul out here sent me a whole bunch of small, Onc. variegatum keikis today. Each little plant had a nice cluster of roots and was still attached to the dry stem where it grew from the mother plant. Since I have huge hands, tying plants to mounts is not one of my best skills. (I always end up getting out the crack pipe.) Gave it some thought and decided to use a waterproof adhesive to attach each keiki to the wood mount. None of the adhesive touches the plant or roots - just the dried stem. I had them all attached in no time and they were really easy to position.

This should work, shouldn't it? Have you ever done this?

Kevin

Comments (13)

  • 18 years ago

    Someone gave a demonstration at our OS and actually used a glue-gun to mount their plants...they put it on the old pbulbs or old dried root crowns. I was mildly concerned about the hot glue but I suppose it cools fast enough to do minimal damage, although I'd be hesitant to use it on living tissue. I think I've seen someone mount tillandsia that way too. I hear ya on the tying..and fishing wire is definitely not the easiest thing to work with either.

  • 18 years ago

    Bromeliad people have been doing this for a long time with their small Tillandsia species.

    --Stitz--

  • 18 years ago

    Have done so for years. Makes mounting faster and results look neater than any other means.

  • 18 years ago

    Hi
    IME the best is pure silicone such as the GE type II. Lasts much longer and is stronger. I find liquid nails lets go over time. of course one drawback to the silicone is it must be dry and takes 24 hours to cure,

    I"m trying some MIGHTY PUTTY as seen on TV lol Only been a week so too soon to tell. lol gary

  • 18 years ago

    No idea about glue, but may give it a shot after this post. I use fishing line, but use a long nosed nose plier to hold the end of the line to make the knots( like a surgeon!!) and it works well.

  • 18 years ago

    I use surgeon's tools for many procedures involving my plants. I highly recommend having a few different ones available. They're especially helpful at plucking pesky pests. It helps to have at least two sets of the more commonly used ones.

    --Stitz--

  • 18 years ago

    When I got a Den. chrysotoxum from Andy's it had NO visible roots and NO visible means of being attached to the mount. It was a medium sized plant with a relatively small point of contact and I always suspected hot glue was the way !

    C-

  • 18 years ago

    I use anything to tie plants in place without regards to looks, training wire, string etc it does not matter. One year later it all comes off as the plant has attached itself with its roots. No plant has ever bloomed or reached a stage where you would want to display it before all this stuff comes off. I don't like fishing line, its harder to work with than an old shoe lace, in the end I remove fishing line too.

    If I want moss as part of the mount, I drill 4 holes making the corners of a small square in the mount, then loop training wire in a fugure of 8. When its cinched down, the wire is buried in the moss and becomes invisible.

    I have used silicon glue to attach a small Dockrilla cucumeria on a piece of bark to a larger piece just like aachenelf described. It worked well and looks natural. I was tempted to glue together same large chuncks of lava rock to create a bed for a large D speciosum hillii to rest on, did not and now the plant is beginning to bind it all together with its roots. A nice demonstration of lithophytic growing for orchid shows. Plant and rocks are in a tray, 1' x 2' bordered with bleached drift wood nailed on its base. Takes 2 people to lift it

    Nick

  • 18 years ago

    Thanks guys. I have no idea why this concept evaded me for so long. Looks like others had the light bulb moment years ago.

    I really can't tie fishing line or anything to save my soul, so another little trick I've been using is black cotton thread. I use a really long piece and simply wrap it around and around and around the plant and mount. When you're using cork or tree fern slabs, there are usually enough sharp edges where the thread will catch and hold the plant in place. Then you hope the plant will attach itself by the time the thread rots off. Usually works well and I think the black thread is less visible than fishing line.

    Had another idea if you really want to use the fishing line. Instead of tying, why not simple use a glob of clear, instant drying adhesive where the two ends meet? That would normally be on the back of the mount, so it shouldn't be very noticeable.

    K

  • 18 years ago

    Orchidnick, can you share your idea on bleaching drift, just plain ol bleach- can you post pics? Have access to some cool drift wood from a local nursery.

  • 18 years ago

    I just mounted a couple of tiny buggers using silicon glue. It was much, much easier and I didn't up with a bunch of bruised leaves. I've always hated the thought of gluing a plant...but I'm with you. I'm converted.

    Stacy

  • 18 years ago

    Hot glue gun. But I agree, if you can use a galvanized pin or wire it on, after the the plant establishes itself to the mount, just get rid of the wire or whatever. It's just temporary. I do put a small amout of long strand sphagnum under the plant first so it won't dry out so quickly.

  • 18 years ago

    Both Andy and Santa Barbara Orchid Estate's Paul Gripp have advised me to always put the plant against the mount and then put whatever moss on top of the roots.

    James at Cal Orchids has a different philosophy, "It all works" he once stated and I think he is close to the truth.

    Nick

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