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Latouria dendrobiums are my nemesis

19 years ago

I have had a dendrobium roy tokunaga (atroviolaceum x johnsoniae) x nora tokunaga (Dendrobium atroviolaceum ÃÂ Dendrobium rhodostictum) for 3 years now....and it hates me or something because in the span of 3 years, I've had 3 new growths each year, the first of which was smaller than all the other existing growths when I purchased it, the second lost both it's leaves within a week of them unfurling, and the third, which I was very hopeful for since it had elongated to larger than all the other growths, turned to brown mush in a matter of 48 hours.

I essentially gave up on it at the beginning of the summer (it seems to delight in producing new growths in late winter) and chucked it, bare root, into a pot. I thought it would be a goner, but I checked it today and there is, once again, the little green nub signaling a new growth. I am 99% certain that this will be it's last attempt, EVER...I mean, I doubt it even has any eyes left to grow from. Anyway, I'm really at a loss as to what to do.

Sources say bright dend light, which I supplied and ended up burning off one of the leaves (while my other regular bigibbum dends frolic hapily, putting out new , as if in mockery). Granted, it was a new leaf that burned...so do the leaves need to be hardened off before sun exposure?? To the best of my knowledge and experience, it's usually the new leaves that are the most sun-resistant (at least that's the way it is with my catts). Sources say damp media in growth, which I supplied and resulted (at least I think) in the rotting of a new growth. I've tried it in fine-ish bark and perlite (which is what it came in) the first year, which I assumed was too dry, tried sphag mixed in with it for the second and third years, to no avail.

I can't seem to find one of those useful culture sheet things for Dendrobium atroviolaceum which I assume is the main genetic contributor to this cross. I grow in the home environment, so I don't get the luxury of nice humidity, but instead, suffer from low humidity, light and temperatures in winter, although much better conditions in summer (75-85F). Most of my other plants, even the dends like bigibbum which enjoy temperature ranges of 75-85F year long, I manage to overwinter. They sulk a bit, but then spring back in the summer, producing new growths. Is this particular dend truly that temperamental? The vendor said it was EASY to grow, but I guess they always say that.

I really *really* like latouria dends. I want to try other ones, but if they're all gonna be this sulky, I may just have to refrain. :(

Comments (10)

  • 19 years ago

    3 new growths over the span of 3 years, I meant to say

  • 19 years ago

    I have one of these too
    but I have it almost full sun, unlike my other De4ns that are full sun, and potted in Aliflor
    doing fantastic here
    I recieved a piece from a friend who was growing it in a bit more shade then what I do, so I am aclimating it now myself
    every day it gets just a bit more direct sun

  • 19 years ago

    Calvin,

    I have Roy Tokunaga and Mini Snowflakes..both of which are grow in Phal conditions with cattleya light levels and both bloom and grow just fine..

    I find these to be easy growers, for the most part.

    I think your winter lighting might be an issue...as most of these plants bloom fall/winter. Maybe a nice light bank would help.

  • 19 years ago

    There's also the possibility that it's a crappy plant.

    I got three of the same plant, once, and one of them completely refused to thrive. I had it in the same conditions as the other two, but it never got any bigger or healthier. It was stable for a year-ish, then proceeded to decline over four years until I chucked it.

    If it's not a problem with lighting, you might want to consider getting another plant.

    Dends are your friends...even the twisted ones.

    Stacy

  • 19 years ago

    I have a Den macrophyllum and Den atroviolaceum - both Latourias. The macrophyllum hasn't bloomed after 3 years but is putting out new growths this year after I started letting the sphag in the plastic pot get bone dry before watering. Before, it was too wet, even though I underwater.

    The atroviolaceum came in bloom this year. I repotted it into medium bark in a larger plastic pot and water it every day. Otherwise, the flowers start drooping.

    The atroviolaceum is up against the S/SE window, under T8s. The macrophyllum is outside, also facing E/SE, 50% shade, and in the 2nd row from the front.

    The macrophyllum may need more light to bloom, but at least it's not rotting anymore.

    Good luck, Whitecat8

  • 19 years ago

    Dunno if this will help, but here's info from FCOS (Five Cities Orchid Society, CA):

    LATOURIA
    Leaves at top of pseudobulbs are large and leathery, inflorescence erect, flowers commonly yellow-green.

    Species such as Den. atroviolaceum, Den. macrophyllum and Den. spectabile.

    Culture Same as antelope types, but cooler and drier when resting in winter.

    SPATULATA (Antelope type)
    Evergreen for several years. Most are large, vigorous plants with long-lasting flowers in summer to several times a year.

    Species such as Den. antennatum, Den. canaliculatum, Den. discolor, Den. gouldii, Den. johannis, Den. lineale (veratrifolium), Den. stratiotes, Den. strebloceras and Den. taurinum.

    Culture Warm all year (60 to 65 F nights, 75 to 90 F days); no rest period; can be kept cooler in winter if dry; medium to high light.

    Also, this Forum post on Dens doesn't address the Latouias specifically, but I was asking what "drier in winter" means and got useful definitions:

    http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/orchids/msg0116501032244.html

    Hope some of this helps.

    WC8

    Here is a link that might be useful: FCOS Culture Sheets

  • 19 years ago

    Thanks for the helpful advice! Perhaps I need to try the high-light thing again, one more time. It seems that sphag may be the best medium in my conditions - my phals will only grow in it, and I've even transfered my dend bigibbums to sphag. My fingers are crossed that it's not a crappy plant since I paid 20 bucks for it (and for me that's expensive for a plant!), not to mention my 3 years worth of wasted effort!

    WC - I'll check out those links - thanks a bunch!

  • 10 years ago

    Hi there, I really think that your problem lies in two areas: light and temperature. This primary hybrid is the offspring of two New Guinea orchids and as such need quite high light levels D. macrophyllum is probably the stabilizing agent here, but even though it can grow at elevations of 1700 metres it likes quite high humidity, though drier in winter - water once a week in winter. I think light is your main problem these plants are from the Equator and are used to 12 - 14 hours of light a day with very little change in winter. The rot you mention is really a combination of cold and water - too cold AND too wet. I grow mine fairly dry in winter and then increase water and feed as the new shoots start to appear. Cheers

  • 10 years ago

    Ernest, good advice but why have you replied to posts that are eight years old?

  • 10 years ago

    Actually did not see the date until I had hit send :-) Cheers

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