The protective sheaths around the pseudobulbs are called sarongs. i only remove them when they have gone grey and have dried out.

Not quite sure what your problem is.....There are different patterns of growth according to flowering habit, some grow, mature the pseudobulb and more or less flower straight away, others mature the pseudobulb and the just sit there till late winter/spring before they flower.

If the sarongs go black then you have a problem.

The leaf that is "stuck" is it a flower sheath? Is it at the very top of the growth? If so, this is where the buds will eventually appear IF the plant is mature enough to bloom. If mature enough, some sheaths will sit empty for months before the buds appear. Don't worry about it, just enjoy the process.

I doubt you have spider mites. You will notice damage on the leaves, not a bug or two running into the bark. Next time you water, submerge the whole pot in water for 20 minutes to see what emerges.

Merit is imacloprid, it won't hurt to use the Bromide again if you still have scale but it won't kill spiders or spider mites.

The "onion skin" is called a bract. Once it is dry it can be removed whether your catt has bloomed or not and yes, it is a great place for bugs to lay eggs. It is also prone to attracting bacteria/fungus spores and could eventually lead to problems. It usually does't, it is just ugly. Saturate the dry material and it will be easy to remove.

Brooke

Thank you Art and Brooke. I am awaiting (sterile snippers in hand, like 'the mad surgeon') to peel away the coating or thin outer skin, but I have provided pictures first. I think they will also clarify what exactly is growing out the top but it was difficult to get closer without getting blurry.

I took several pictures to try to give some indication of the size or 'maturity' of the plant. Is there any way to estimate how far away it is from blooming?

The last picture in the photo stream was taken right after I received the plant. The moss at the top has been removed (initially I thought it might be a good idea to have it there, but changed my mind shortly after). The brown spotting at the top has disappeared with a sprinkling of cinnamon near the crown (from an older thread, thank you Digitalphrag :)

[I was told by the seller that the top leaf that you see that is cut near the crown, was cut for esthetic reasons because of an infestation of grasshoppers.]

I think the earlier photo indicates that the "blackening" has gotten progressively worse; I didn't realize this until I looked at the photos together.

Brooke, I'm assuming that you don't mean flushing the medium under a running tap for 20 minutes and you would like me to submerge the plant in a water filled container large enough to hold it. Yes! it will be interesting to see what comes out of there...

Forgot to post the link for photos.

Here is a link that might be useful: Cattleya Chocolate Drop 'Volcano Queen'

Put your snippers away, you have no reason to use them.

First, you don't have a plant with a crown. You have a bifoliate cattleya with a leaf that has been cut off - supposedly partially eaten by caterpillars. The green thing "might" be a third leaf appearing. Sometimes with the mixed up genetics of your catt, a third leaf will appear. Don't worry about it, it will help supply food for the plant.

Your discolored bract is not a real problem. When you water it is getting wet and has a slight fungal infection. This is a common problem in high humidity when the bract doesn't dry very fast.

To remove it, saturate it and peel it off. It should be easy to remove. Since you have had a scale problem, using alcohol to wet it will kill any scale that could be hiding there. I think once you peel it off you will find a nice shiny pbulb.

Yes, the next time you water it, submerge the pot. Anything creepy crawly living in the mix will surface so they don't drown.

A word of caution, your plant is slightly over potted so make sure you let it dry thoroughly between waterings.

I don't have a clue when it will bloom.

Brooke

Brooke, I will be ecstatic when I peel off that skin finally. I am waiting for the mix to dry up a bit before I submerge, and upon doing that I will remove the skin and do all at once. I'll keep you posted with my findings.

I think I should be okay to repot her and would like to start using a chc mix that I purchased. I've been fickle about growing mediums; I have gone from hating sphag to loving it; loving bark mix to hating it, and I am anxious to try the chc blend on my catt. But I recognize that orchids have different needs regarding media, and I am adjusting as I go along.

Hopefully they won't resent me too much because I love to repot (I swear I'm like a mad scientist). I figure each time I do this I set my plants back about 6 months at least, but my logic here is trying to give them the best growing environment for a stronger plant and work with the conditions that I have, since my environment is far from ideal. Does this make sense? I'm patient, I can wait for blooms.

Why do you want to repot "her"? Stop fiddling!

Firstly, talking the talk.
Mary Noble. You can grow Cattleya Orchids.
Sarong. Technically eight leaves covering a pseudobulb which do not develop into functional leaves.

David L Jones. Native orchids of Australia.
Bract. A leaf like structure which lacks a blade or lamina.

Bract might be right but i prefer sarong.

Now Velamina, please stop fiddling with an orchid that is in very good condition and if you are lucky might even give you one or two flowers in Autumn from the deformed sheath.

Cattleya Chocolate drop is a great orchid. Easy to grow, colourful, nicely scented with many long lasting flowers on a mature plant.

There are several down the backyard in the shade-house, they flowered in Autumn and have spent the winter down there waiting for spring to arrive so that they can start growing a new pseudobulb. I am just about to start on going through that part of my collection, tidying up, repotting as necessary, removing dried sarongs etc.

The plant has a routine of growing, flowering and resting while other "Cattleyas" may have different patterns. But of course it may behave in a different manner in your growing conditions in Zone 7

Arthur you can call it a bicycle if you wish.

Brooke

I'll keep on calling it a sarong. When i looked up Bract. i then had to look blade and lamina. Bract is more exact. Sarong is more descriptive.

In time I will get the anatomy correct; I think the book that I have (Ortho's All About Orchids) while good, is much too basic so I will be looking for another book or two.

Art, while I admit to having a "repotting disorder", the "fiddling" comes from being a perfectionist (or 'the other' term if you prefer to look at it as a flaw :) I am now up to a whopping 5 orchids and I started with a sick phal about a month ago; but I have also spent much more on supplies and won't buy any more orchids unless I am prepared. What I wouldn't give to repot thousands of orchids as you have said you have.

But I can show restraint:
1) My Phal. Ever Spring Prince (not sure specifically which one since I had to find her name thru many web photos) I purchased her from a local grower: she is "perfect" in 100% sphag and I don't intend to pot her till next year.

2) 3) 4) purchased from Hausermann in pristine condition a Phal. Schilleriana, Sedirea Japonica, Phal. Violacea var. Borneo 'Pacific Isle': These I repotted immediately because I knew I would do it better, and I didn't like the way they were potted when they arrived. Nonetheless, the plants were perfect. I placed them all in sphag only. They still look beautiful, they've been here a week now.

5) My chocolate drop was repotted immediately in bark. I paid $11 plus shipping for her but I'm beginning to think I overpaid. I think I can still improve her medium but I won't now; I am happy with the positive comments I received from you so I will take your advice and leave her alone except for the submersion for insects. As Brooke mentioned she is potted a bit high, but I'll see what happens after I submerge her.

6) My very sick noid white phal which started me on my addiction; she is hanging on by a thread and really should be discarded, but I won't.

I will have to make some more orchid purchases to feed this disorder; so far I have Phal. Cornu Cervi Alba and Neofinetia Falcata 'amami', on my list hopefully for next month. I would also like to add a miniature dendrobium, not sure which one yet.

You do not want to repot a thousand orchids. It will take me till Christmas to go through the whole collection, tidying up, repotting, dividing and so on.

All the great orchid growers talk to their orchids and start off the same way buying lots of different Genera and then concentrating on the Genera that will grow in their conditions. Alas, my conditions are not suitable for Phalaenopsis so i only have a few of those and they are housed in my wife's kitchen. Not sure about Neofinetia falcata. It grows in my glasshouse where phals would not survive winter. Perhaps someone will give advice on how to grow it in zone 7.

Velumina I said it is over potted which means the pot is a little big for the size of the plant.

If your tag says Phal. violacea var. Borneo it is now called Phal. bellina. The bellina was given its own species status in the '90's. Too bad vendors continue to use incorrect tags for 20 years. When it blooms it should have a very distinct triangle of color in the center.

Congrats you have good taste in Phal. species. I have the schilleriana, several bellina and the cornu-cervi, the alba and the "normal" cervi. The schillie is a spring bloomer and the other two are summer bloomers.

I don't have the Sedirea japonica but do have the Neofinetia. I grow mine in catt light but kept more moist like a phal. Mine blooms late spring/early summer.

No you don't want to repot 700 orchids either but what I find with mine, they all don't need repotting at the same time. Some of my catts are actually repotted and divided in the middle of winter because that is when they initiate new growth/roots. Tidying up is done daily.

Brooke

Brooke thanks for the compliment. I am looking forward to purchasing the Phal. Cornu Cervi 'alba' and Hausermann doesn't have it. The plants I received from him were flawless and now I must look elsewhere for this phal. My Bellina is named after my favorite football player who is "all heart"; very appropriate I think :)

Art, I think my cattleya was far from producing anything in its current condition and my instincts were correct; this "leaf" had stopped growing, insects non-related.

This morning I submerged; the process had not gone as I imagined. I probably had to follow a good method in doing so and repotting became necessary. I pictured this going very differently (haha what was I thinking). I was completely unprepared, but I discovered a great deal of root rot. Adding sphagnum as a dressing for moisture, probably not the thing to do with Cattleya, and I think I waited too long to remove it.

I was happy to remove the bark and now she is in the chc mix I 'interviewed'; I imagine that people have different preferences, but bark mix is a medium that I personally will be staying away from.

As for my current insect population (besides scale), I noticed a tiny, white (transluscent) hopper on my Schillie this morning. It is spider-like and is what I saw on the Catt. This is why I though I had spider mites, but according to the gardener at my local nursery, he said you can't see the mites, but no clue as to what sort of insect it was.

I forgot to add that I didn't have a smaller pot than the 4" green one she came in so I added a bit more styro foam underneath. I'm posting 2 more pictures in her new mix. I tried to get closer to the new growth.

Here is a link that might be useful: Cattleya

The little "leaf" in the centre at the top of the largest pseudobulb as Brooke said might be a sheath. In which case it doesn't grow, it just sits there and its job is to protect the tiny flower buds that might grow and emerge in Autumn.

One of the parents Cattleya Chocolate Drop is Cattleya aurantiaca. It has a different flowering habit because it grows and matures a pseudobulb and then does nothing till warmer weather arrives in spring. The sheath on my plant has gone brown and it looks dead. I'm only telling you this because one of the perils of newbie fiddling is to remove a dead looking flowering sheath.

The mature Cattleya Chocolate Drop plants in my collection have pseudobulbs several feet in length.

In my case it's probably "ocd", but I get it :)

I hardly see how cattleya is a beginner orchid. There's the growth pattern, potting (with divisions) and the bracts where fungus and insects can grow and hide. Not knowing what to do with the bracts makes them unsightly. Obviously I'm having problems with the anatomy of this plant.

Thanks for the info about the growth. I would've been ecstatic over the sheath if I didn't think that the repot set her back; about half of the roots simply slid off. I will be purchasing another book soon and some recommendations would be helpful.

Uh...bracts/sarongs :)

Leave the plant alone! Water it once a week and leave it sunny place. You are loving it to death.

I beg to differ. What I've learned so far is that Orchids (sometimes plants in general) don't often show you that something is wrong until it is too late.

Rot was fast approaching the center (crown I think?) I think I caught it in time. Granted, if I had many more I probably would worry less about them as a whole, but as a beginner and with very few to count I would like to focus on their health and not losing any. Besides, saving them from rot, isn't that an Orchids 101 thing?

Sorry I thought you were asking for assistance. Your plant is rotting because you are overwatering, hence my comment to keep it sunny and only water once a week. Cattleya's really need to dry out between watering, even more so when not activly growing. You see, I've been growing for over 25 yrs. so I kinda know what I'm talking about. BTW,the pots you orchids are in are all wrong. They don't allow for proper air movement and are way to big for the plants. I've move them down to smaller clay pots.

I'm under the impression that you missed a lot of relevant information posted above. And there is no over watering involved. Btw, as I had posted earlier I'm using a 4" insert in a larger clay pot, and there is air underneath inside the pot. I've also already stated that with my conditions bark is not a favorable medium, and there was the mention of sphag as a dressing.

I lack experience, but I believe that I've relayed the problem as descriptively as possible, including the insect population I'm working on because I grow them outdoors. As always, I appreciate the advice.

Velamina, I have to agree with smxboxer. The plant is too wet. I would never use CHC on a Catt, it stays too damp. Bark is the best. I don't know what part of the Country you are in, but I think the plant needs to be in a clay pot in bark. The roots will rot in the mix it is currently in. The pot is plastic (doesn't allow air exchange) and is over-potted. It also appears to be planted too deeply.

I'm so sorry, I can only imagine how confused you must be with all the advice. However, if you reread all the comments you will see that we are all saying the same thing.

This plant did not have crown rot. You can remove the sarong or not. Don't worry about bugs, just get the media to dry out and give this plant plenty of sun. They are easy growers. Also, your plant appears old enough to get a bloom this year if it is happy.

One other observation, the Phal in the picture appears to be smothered in sphag. I would loosen that up and let that plant dry out.

Keep your hands off the watering can...

Jane

{{gwi:187767}}

Hi Jane, she is beautiful, and thanks for the input.

The 4" plastic pot that I'm currently using was the same pot it came in from the grower, and the roots were perfect when she arrived. When I did the initial repot I had added styrofoam underneath as I had learned to "shrink" the pot.
Much to Brooke's credit she spotted the size, but as I had said before, the repotting wasn't planned and I didn't have a smaller pot in my posession. So I placed her again in the same plastic pot, this time with some more pieces of styrofoam hoping it would help.

I also tend a beautiful small garden. I won't follow a regular watering schedule because it is not constructive advice; With the orchids I currently have I check the medium and sometimes will wait a span of 14 days before rewatering (not often but sometimes, especially when in sphag). It is NEVER every 7 days or less. Most of the time it is every 10 days or so approximately. I grow them outside and the environment changes and has much to do with this. As for a sunny area, my sunlight is limited; this hobby will prove to be more challenging for me than someone with a gh and ideal conditions. That is why this forum is very valuable to me.

The reason for the rot I believe is what I had mentioned before, and I had also stopped misting which is also almost always recommended. Also, the overpotting that Brook mentioned because the bark simply wasn't getting dry enough. Why do I hate bark? Because I am not in a sunny location; the top dries out quickly, the bottom quickly turns to muck and I believe I will have to turn to another medium if the chc general purpose mix is not favorable, but I won't use the bark. It may very well be just the type that I was using which is a chunky Phal mix.

Now, I potted the phal exactly the same way my Ever Spring Prince came potted from a large and local, professional grower (in a plastic container though). You're in NY also (Venamy in Brewster, I've been there twice now). It's been 1 1/2 months I've had her and the roots you can see through the clear pot are beautiful. But the schillie's spike is showing lots of growth and also the new top leaf; I'm tempted to leave her alone. Is your advice to repot? Haha just give me a reason :)

I think right now the thing to do is to leave the catt, as she was just repotted and is healing. I will have to see how the mix works but all I can tell you is that the mix is still "on probation".

It was also helpful to know that the top growth will probably remain like this for a while since I'm just becoming familiar with all of this.

Hi Velamina,

You wrote, "Why do I hate bark? Because I am not in a sunny location"

This is not a good location for Chocolate Drop. The followiing was copied from OrchidWiz, "...Chocolate Drop is composed of species of which 100% take high light. Grow this hybrid in bright indirect light conditions".

--Stitz--

Stitz, I haven't measured my lighting situation but I know I have sufficient for some species (mostly phal). I intend to measure in the near future but also, I have read conflicting information from other sources about the light needs for this plant. I would have to look up the other sources but I remember seeing lower light levels, or possibly phal light conditions and this may be why I purchased her. Also during winter I will be supplementing for 6 months which I speak about in a different thread.

I'll try to see where I got my info from, but there have been several sources. As Art says, it is also said to be an easy species to grow, but then again this may have nothing to do with my lighting.

In my situation currently lighting may be nothing or it may be everything; I'm not sure yet.

Your catt. needs much higher light levels than the phal. If it is receiving enought light, it's leaves will be a lighter grass green.

I'm posting one of the sources from Norman's orchids (I think I'm allowed to do this). I thought it was interesting that the description completely conflicts with the requirements. As a general rule of thumb I'm aware that Catt's require more light and may not be suitable for me. I think much of what I will be able to grow will be through trial and error, but I would still very much like to try other varieties. The dendrobium may prove to be difficult but I thought I'd try a mini.

Well let me know your thoughts about the description on that one and I will continue to look for other sources I used (I know there was more than one). The requirements clearly agree with your source above, but there are catts that require less light and because of the description I thought this may be one of them.

Here is a link that might be useful: Cattleya Chocolate Drop 'description'

......"The 4" plastic pot that I'm currently using was the same pot it came in from the grower, and the roots were perfect when she arrived. When I did the initial repot I had added styrofoam underneath as I had learned to "shrink" the pot..."

Most growers repot their plants when sold. Plastic is cheap and lightweight for shipping. That doesn't mean the plant was grown in that pot. Don't get me wrong, I use plastic pots for many plants (Phals) but not Catts.

CHC stays damp longer than medium bark. Bark allows air flow around the roots which the plant requires.

Chocolate Drop like high light. Normans description is very confusing and is geared to selling to the public. High light and 2000fc is incorrect.

Stitz is correct.

I grew this plant in full sun in summer. Your plant is sitting in a wet mix in a plastic pot. It will take a long time for that mix to dry out...too long. Unless the plant is actively growing, producing roots/leaves, the mix will not dry out. The roots will suffer. If you hate using bark, I would move the plant to a clay pot.

Jane

Jane, there are other choices for medium. Repotme uses a classic mix for cattleya based on chc. They also use another one for Catts which is based on Orchiata or Kiwi. I read this is supposed to be better than normal fir bark, but really it makes no difference to me atm.

Bark is not essential and that is why there are so many other choices, especially when people develop personal preferences for one over another. Bark is not suitable for my conditions and if I hadn't just repotted her I would've considered a different pot. But she is outdoors hence more circulation.

I never said that Stitz was not correct. As a matter of fact, I pointed out that another source agreed, despite conflicting information. I'm glad he mentioned it.

Bark works poorly for me because I severely underwater, and I live in a dry environment. I don't grow too many catt-alliance types, but the ones I have are in CHC/charcoal. Then again, I grow under baking hot lights and even watering daily, things dry out by night. I would have to completely agree with Stitz/Jane/smwboxer: light will have a higher impact on the health of your plant rather than what you have it potted in.

Your choice of potting medium depends on 4 things:

1) How often you water (your own personal habits)
2) How wet/dry the plant likes to be (effected by genera, species, seasonal variation)
3) How dry your conditions are (effected by amount of sun, temperature, humidity)
4) Your vessel of choice (effected by clay, plastic, basket etc...)

One thing though that I'm confused about - being new to the hobby, how is it that you are so vehemently certain that bark doesn't work in your conditions?

The lighting is being addressed currently, and there is the possibility that I may not be able to grow this Catt. What I don't know yet is if I have sufficient light to grow it. But I mentioned the reason why I chose this as one of my plants is because I had read it required lower light levels.

The repotting came about coincidentally, and I had already mentioned prior to repotting that I wanted to change the medium. I am aware as to what can change a medium - for the user, the plant and the environment. I hoped not to get into an issue that is clearly a debate even among professional growers.

But clearly it has to do with all of the above Calvin. I may be an underwater myself and along with less sunlight that may be enough for me. I simply don't like bark. I do have more circulation because I grow them outdoors. Part of the challenge is finding out what is going to work best for my orchids, my environment and my habits and its all a work in progress.

I want to apologize as I realize my post sounded like I was yelling at you. I assure you I wasn't.

The basic points Calvin made are correct and better said than I tried. Personally I use many different potting mixes depending on the plant. I am also a bad waterer and straight bark is too dry for me unless I mix it with other things. I mentioned it for you because your mix looked wet and assumed you water too often. Bark is more forgiving and I feel a better choice for those who water frequently (actually rock is best). Again, I apologize for the assumption.

I have used CHC for years and still use it in very small amounts. I find it can take too long to dry yet can be hard to get wet. I would not recommend using it straight for any Cattleya especially in a plastic pot.

Calvins points are 'right on.' Understanding his 4 points come with time and experience.

Jane

Thank you Jane. I just wanted to point out that often people make too many assumptions on the forum, especially with regards to beginners. If one assumption had been made on my behalf is that I under water because I love Sphagnum and we work well together; I wish I could use it for everything but I can't.

More than a month ago, I added sphag to the top of the bark mix, hoping to add humidity to the leaves, but much to the detriment of the mix inside the pot. I was also misting before I started working with a humidity tray. Doing both is almost always advised, but it also sparks many debates. It was my feeling to stop doing it. As I said, much will be trial and error on my part.

I tried to stay away from the subject of bark since using it as a medium is not essential, but I will mention my thoughts about it to clarify:

Why I Do Not Like Bark

As Calvin stated, it is not for underwaterers, and that is my feeling also, in just a short time. My environment here is also dry. Hence the sphag and the misting initially.

It gives the impression of underwatering, even if you are not.

It is definitely not for "newbs" if you have to check with a pencil. That pencil check just does not inspire confidence; my honest opinion.

I read somewhere that bark decomposes much sooner than people think, and it is only my belief that this may be true. This might have everything to do with the quality of the bark, and I am no expert. Medium is a subject that interests me in general (in the garden also) and I try to read up on the subject as much as possible. I'll leave the debate to expert growers, but it might be a really informative topic for the forum. I would love to read about it.

Did I mention that I'm part decorator with a bit of ocd? I'm not fond of the way it looks at the top of the pot after less than a month, and I will be bringing my plants indoors for winter. This has nothing to do with my orchids' growth.

I have tried to say as delicately as possible from the beginning that it won't work for me. I am looking forward to trying other media.

Let me just say that I'm not decorating, I am actively trying to grow different orchids and starting to collect, and I apologize if I am quick to point out what is constructive and what is not.

Velamina, one of the problems with orchid growing is that you will be getting advice from people growing orchids in all sorts of climates.

As a General rule bark tends to be used less in warmer climates than say here where it is the staple of many mixes. For example, i use 50% treated pine bark, 50% coconut chunks plus 10% Diatomite for my Cattleyas.

I have had a bad experience with Coconut chunks used to pot my small phalaenopsis collection.

Welcome to the confusing world of orchid growing.

I remember reading on this forum and possibly others, that a popular medium for some is the leca mix.

Just as an example of how certain materials work for some and not for others, a commercial grower by me attempted working with this medium and didn't like it, because the roots did not want to grow or stay inside the pot. This may not bother many growers (and some may not admit to this happening), but if it occurred with me I would not be happy.

Another commercial grower loves it, but I believe he makes the bulk of his business from making (and selling) the mix.

The chc mix that I have is from NYBG, which probably caters mostly to beginners and is prepared by Tindara. It's probably their "potting up" mix. I stocked some of it because in spite of the fact that I may be only able to grow phals I will need a different mix to try growing other varieties. I purchased it because I thought it had diatomite but they ended up changing it and substituted Aliflor. Again conflicting opinions on diatomite from all sources but it is a component I wanted to work with.

I use the catt. mix from repotme.com. Pretty much use it for all of my plants and they all grow very well in it. As for roots wandering out of the pots, that's the very nature of orchids. In the wild their roots grow over branches for many many feet. A few roots sticking out here and there are a very good thing, esp. if they have a nice green growing tip on them. Means you are doing something right.

Smw, please make that point with Venamy Orchids, the info is on their website. I love their orchids and I have been there only twice (she is not that close). She has a greenhouse with hundreds if not thousands, different varieites. They are not speaking of a few roots here and there. I am aware of orchids' growth pattern.

Not quite sure what point I'm supposed to make with Venamy orchids. I'm just passing on some information. Some orchids will grow roots outside of medium (vandas, epidendrums, dends, phals,,,) Others stay neatly in pots(masd, ancistrochilus,,,). Not trying to argue. Just trying help and pass on some information.

Thank you. Now, I must get back to over watering my orchids and placing them back in their closets.

Wow, you are really a defensive and might I say nasty individual. You came here asking for advice and everytime the people tried you just shot them down. Good luck growing your plants. I suggest maybe you just read how to grow. You people skills will not get you far. Sorry for trying to help.

You have a problem with context, and I cannot help you with that. This is not the place.

I would like to thank a few people personally:

Brooke, you are an excellent diagnostician. If you are not an md I think you missed your calling :) In some of my prior queries including this one, your advice has been indispensable. I am looking forward to reading many more posts by you. I also enjoy your photos; very beautiful growing.

Art, I love your enthusiasm, and I imagine hearing your aussie accent while reading your posts :) You are always trying to help newcomers such as myself with no ego, in spite of the fact that you grow thousands of orchids. Thank you for posting on "Which One in Your Collection". My goal was to try to get to know a few growers without them having to submit a resume. Additionally, it would have given some insight into how growers' tastes evolve over time and their reasons for choosing, or which plant they were the most successful with. Not to mention that I love pictures!

Stitz, where are you? I wish you would contribute more in general, and you have shed some "light" on this thread. Thank you for clearing up the confusion regarding the lighting requirements. I will measure my outdoor lighting in the near future, but I think I'll just stay away from the catts for now in general. I am currently working on supplementing my light indoors for winter.

I really don't want to end this post on a negative note but I feel that I must say a few things, and it is not my intent to hurt anyone:

Calvin:
"One thing though that I'm confused about - being new to the hobby, how is it that you are so vehemently certain that bark doesn't work in your conditions?"

This is a polite way of saying "You are nothing but a newb, so what do you know about medium?" I hope I answered correctly. In addition, I don't appreciate "teams", and why would that be necessary with a newcomer like me?

Jane, I think you were trying to apologize, not sure.

One more thing, I can understand why some would think I haven't done any research on my own. With respect to the anatomy of the catt, looking at a diagram and holding one in your hand are very different to me. I guess it depends on what type of learner you are. But I dared not touch the bract/sarong until I knew for sure what it was and that I wasn't harming the plant. There is also some confusion regarding the terminology. As I had said earlier I must upgrade my reading material.

Talk about being 'dissed.'

Ummm...ok... Well after reading all that, let me just add it's always so excellent to check out your local orchid society for a wealth of growing knowledge. They are very familiar with what works best in your area, but be warned you will find as many different growing techniques as you will growers! ginnibug
good luck

Jane, I am from the concrete jungle :)

Ginni, that is a great idea but I would like to attend the Orchid Show at NYBG in February before doing so. It is something I'm looking forward to.

Art, it never ocurred to me to look for your photostream and I am so glad I came across yours as well. From all of your beautiful photos, my wish orchid will be "Lycaste Bradeorum". It will be the one I will be giving special attention to and under lights separate from the rest. My heart skipped a beat at the photo. Thanks for sharing your wonderful world of orchids :)

velimina, nice to see you have been firmly bitten by the orchid bug, they make a great obsession.

you have gotten loads of good advice, glean what is appropriate to your situation and apply it if you choose. of course experience will be the best teacher.

i grow in my house, and outdoors in NE Pennsylvania.

just some thoughts from my own experience:
when out of bloom, orchids are not the prettiest plant, but that wild disheveled appearance seems to be what works best for them as they grow and prepare for the next blooming season.

once i see active growth following a flowering i water, fertilize, and basically leave them alone. roots hanging out in mid air, normal and beautiful in their own way. leaves with spots, leaves i don't like, stupid dry shriveled brown roots, yep i admit i will take a scissor to them, but otherwise i don't "manscape" them. i'm too lazy for that anyway. lol

Catts love sun, and many hate being re-potted unless they have seriously outgrown their pot(one or two growths hanging out over the edge of the pot) in fact some may never bloom if forced to make endless cycles of root growth trying to fill the larger pot. *sigh* just the opposite of regular house plants.

rot? usually a symptom of too much water. sometimes roots rot/die from the quality of the water. Chlorine is a killer as is "softened" water. reverse osmosis or distilled are stripped of their nutrients or minerals or whatever and a person may have to supplement by adjusting the PH or changing fertilizers. i use well water chock full of dissolved solids and acid, the chids seem to love it. hahahaha

what kind of water do you use?

i'm not a fan of Spag. i just can't get it to dry out. over the years i have tried loads of potting mixes including straight styrofoam and my other favorite experiment a water only culture(both worked). so use what you like and learn from your experience.

you have some wonderful plants on your list good luck with them, and don't forget to throw in a super simple Phal from a big box store. Why? because those things stay in bloom so long you may find you have to put it on your dusting schedule, i have one in full bloom since May and the flowers don't look like they are going anywhere anytime soon. a swiffer duster should do the job nicely.

just remember that although orchids are considered to be the "thoroughbreds" of the plant kingdom, most of them survive in the wild exposed to all the elements, tenaciously gripping their supporting surface,and surviving on passing bird droppings while waiting to trick some unsuspecting pollinator in going for a joy ride.
you have to love a plant like that.

PS you sound very orderly i'm guessing you are either a scientist or a scorpio, or both. just friendly curiosity.

i rarely capitalize, i consider comma use a personal expression, and grammar rules merely suggestions. lol

Mack, thank you for such a thoughtful and well meaning post; I really enjoyed reading. I'm glad that you sensed that I do heed to most advice. I think Scorpios are mind readers, I've been thinking of testing my water for a long time. I'm an Aries though which means "all enthusiasm" :)

I don't mind a few roots here and there; I'm just not fond of mounted orchids (who knows, I may even decide to get some in the future), or orchids that look like they would like to run away from their pots. The "nakie look", an acquired taste maybe. The tidy look is much more me :)

Smwboxer, I was thinking of what to say to you, and I sincerely hope that you accept my apologies; sometimes what we say on line come through with different meanings. I'm sensitive about all things alive, all things growing, and this has happened to me before (in the gardening world):

If you turn around or leave them alone for a while, they do something behind your back.

I know it sounds funny but it is really true, so I try to stay on top of things. They will do something behind my back even if I'm not thinking about them. But for the most part I do a good job, and am generally not shy about asking any kind of question or advice.

From reading the other threads today you have inspired me to purchase a Dendrobium Laevifolium :)

So since Hausermann has one for me, my next order includes:

Dendrobium Laevifolium
(I may have sufficient light for this one, but sometimes you have to push the limits)

Phalaenopsis Hieroglyphica
Phalaenopsis Equestris
Phalaenopsis Stuartiana

Yes, more Phals. until I get my lighting supplements. The other kids will have to wait till I can order them from one place. Lycaste Bradeorum? I think a flask is in order for this one in the future....

Let me recommend that if you like to stay ontop of what your plants are doing and how you are doing on watering are clear pots! They are not pretty by themselves but it's sooo easy to drop them into a nice ceramic pot or cache pot. If your doing well with the plants you will see roots start burrowing through whatever medium you use without disturbing the plant. You can also adjust your watering schedule due to the info you glean.

Also let me add that those flask babies and small seedlings are alot more tricky than the more forgiving older plants. Just be warned on that point. I don't know how many I've killed because I just don't do so well with them. General growing culture that is easy to find on one certain plant doesn't always apply for the younger version.

My girlfriend took some wonderful hort & landscaping classes at NYBG. I'm jealous...ginnibug

I'm way ahead of you ginni, I've already stocked up on aircone pots of all sizes except the two smallest. I don't want to be stuck again without any good pots. They're not quite clear but they should be good enough (nice looking too).

I have plenty to keep me busy for a while before the flasking so even though I can't wait, it'll be a while, maybe not until early next year.

I've heard great things about their classes also. If only we all had more time.