Hi Amy!

I kind of understand where you're coming from. Once you know the basics, the hard part is starting to develop that 'feel' for things. Sometimes I sit after reading all the culture sheets and info here and imagine what it would be like to be the plant in question...what kind of temperament I would have, what kind of things I would enjoy etc...(it sounds a little silly I know, but I think it helps get a good sense of what the plants like).

Overall, it seems that things are too wet and too dark. I had similar problems a while back in my house - orchids stopped thriving because of less than optimal light conditions, bark wouldn't stay wet long enough, pbulbs shriveled, and orchids entered a state of non-growth. Thinking (wrongly) that more water would help, I watered more and more often, but since the orchids were obviously not happy (and therefore not growing) they rotted. The reason why the orchids weren't that happy was because there wasn't enough light on them. So I repotted everything in sphag the next spring when active growth was happening, ensured brighter light, and things seem to be perking up. It's a tricky thing to balance though, because I see that one of your phals has a burn on the leaf. Sadly, this will stay there until the leaf drops off naturally. You can monitor it to make sure it doesn't get infected, but it's unlikely. I think the oncidium sun spots are normal, but someone else can add to that.

Did you repot recently when new roots weren't growing? Because that kind of looks like what happened, but I could be wrong.

For your orchid that keeps falling out of the pot, I've seen some people take fishing wire and fastening the plant in place to the pot. Sometimes this is done with mounts to keep plants on the mount until roots are established.

As for the pbulbs coming apart, you'll just have to pot them up and see if they develop new growths..the good news is that you have 3 new orchids in the place of 1. The bad news is that you'll have to wait longer for it to bloom again :(

Good luck! It's a learning curve, but soon you'll be thinking exactly like an orchid!

One thing about moving the orchids to a new location is that often the watering interval will be different. What worked in one location may leave the plant wet much longer in another.

Anytime you move plants to a different environment, they will go through an adjustment. I believe plants get some degree of stress each time they are moved even within the same environment.

Your plants look okay, but underlit. I would increase light and let them sit and watch them. You have to learn the language. It really can't be taught. Observe and they will talk to you. Then start adjusting the basics. Light, air and water. Make small adjustments and watch. Orchids take time to respond. If they are not drying out fast enough, increase light and air movement.

I could go on and on, but you need to get the feel for your plants. Basics are good, and as Calvin states, you need to listen to the plant. They really do let you know.

Jane

Not repotting in time is probably your biggest mistake. Repot at least every two years. Longer if using hydroponics, shorter if using moss. The decay rate in the pot occurs geometrically (doubling rate of bacteria and fungi are more or less constant or even faster at the end) so if things are slightly bad at 24 months they will be really bad for the plant six months later and you will have a severely damaged plant. Do not expect roots that that have been chronically poisoned by decay toxins and fertilizer build up to work again even if they are still alive. New roots from the top of the plant are the only thing that will get a damaged plant going again.

Repot when the plant is in the part of its cycle where roots are just beginning to emerge. For Phals this is when a new leaf is just starting to mature. Repot when a leaf is 4/5ths grown, in the spring or summer. Growth slows with decreasing hours of daylight and lower temps.
For oncidiums, root growth begins when the leaves are nearing full length, before the pbulb starts to swell.

Trim any roots that will not allow the plant to sit properly in the new pot (centered at the proper depth). Use an azaelia-type pot whose diameter is 1/3 leaf span. Have the bottom leaves touch the side of the pot and fill in with mix. Pack the mix in firmly to stabilize the plant, stake it if you must. Roots will not grow well if the plant is not stable and secure in the pot (or on a mount if you start growing mounted orchids in the future, they have to be tied on tightly.)

Expect one or two bottom leaves to dry and drop while the new roots get going, especially for a damaged plant.

Those are the basics for long term success with Phals and most other orchids.

The next level is to fine tune your potting medium for your conditions (your watering habits). If you can't keep up with the watering needs of your plants when potted in plain garden center Phalaemnopsis bark mix, add some chopped dry, long fibered blond, sphagnum moss. If its not blond in the package it isn't sphagnum moss. Garden center workers often don't know the difference between green forest moss, and sphagnum. Plain bark dows not make a good potting medium. It is much bettter with some charcoal and large pearlite in it so buy an orchid mix rather than orchid bark it helps with even water retention and chemical stability and nutrient availability within the pot over time.

If you have been growing and flowering orchids well for a couple of years you have the hang of basic light and watering. Humidity is not as important as most people make it out to be. If it feels dry to you it is dry to the plants, and root growth outside of the pot will be affected. Inside a humid pot the roots don't know any difference. Spider mites, rather than growth, are usually the prime reason for getting humidity up.

Light: More than house plants and less than sunburn. It does not need to be fine tuned with a meter as long as you give them as much as you can and then pull them back if the leaves are turning light lime green. If you really want to grow orchids well in the house look into light systems. Window light is too variable in space and time.

Fertilizer and water quality: The absolute least of the worries, but the favorite thing for up-tight orchid growers to obsess about. Fertilize very lightly at every watering or every other watering unless growing outdoors or in a greenhouse where faster growth can take slightly higher levels. Too much fertilizer is a waste of money and builds up, ageing a pot faster. Don't use softened water as the sodium will slowly poison the plants. If you start into growing unusual specialty orchids they may need better quality water, but by that time you will have picked up on what they need.

Phal 6 rescue-cut-back-- picture lookks like fungal stem infection (a.k.a. crown rot. Any time you have leaves drop on one side of the plant only you are in trouble, and looking at fast death. A systemic fungicide may help in the short term, but the infection generally is not stopped permanently and will pop back up six months or a year later. This infection is usually from getting water in the leaf axils. Try to keep leaves dry at all times (misting is a big no no even though the books say to do it).

For an intermediate zone grower, I think it critical to learn how to carry the orchids (which one already has) through winter with least amount of stress, both to them and to the gardener. Learning to get through winter means learning about watering, light, temperature needs specific to that period. When one has passed this acid test, non-winter season cultivation of just about anything should be trivial. Good luck and happy growing, alvin

PS. I used to grow orchids in Borneo, smack on the equator, imagine the "culture" shock ...

I love this forum, but I receive as much help from my books. I particularly like Taylor's Guides' "Orchids", and William Cullina's "Understanding Orchids". I also own the two Ortho books but tend to lend them out because the other two answer most of my needs. Other books are mentioned in the FAQ section above.

WOW. Ok, so you have all given me SOOO much to read and digest and learn!!! THANK YOU!!!!

I can't even respond to specifics at this point because there is so much good info here that I need to read it all over again a couple of times. But I did not want to wait to say Thank You!!!!

I couldn't have asked for a better blend of responses and I certainly believe I have a lot of new knowledge to build on and skills to devlop..."the next step"!!!!

The next step might also include joining an orchid society and perhaps buying some more orchids that will fit in with your existing growing conditions.

There is lots of good stuff in the " are there any monthly check lists for orchids" thread that has slipped to page 2. Well worth a read if you missed it.

Having really excellent air flow and light can help make up for overwatering.

Using only top quality water with low dissolved solids, can help to make up for failing to repot in time.

Clay pots and lava rocks are great for plants that like to dry out between waterings, and for over-waterers.

Semi hydroponic pots can help to provide stable watering levels for plants that prefer to stay constantly moist.

Hydrogen peroxide is a great treatment for any problem and can safely be added to water or sprayed on plants.

Most orchids grow better mounted. Cork is best. Don't mount phals unless you have a greenhouse.

Those are some of the things I've learned about keeping orchids in the house.
-MB

Join the AOS. Get their magazine. Join the local AOS affiliated orchid society. Unless you have a dedicated orchid growing area, like a greenhouse, shade house or even a indoor artificial set up, you will be limited by what you can grow. Don't try to grow everything. There are more orchids species than any other plant species on earth. Some orchids are just impossible to grow in an artificial environment. Research each plant species or hybrid before you buy. Just don't willy nilly pick up a species without knowing how to grow it properly first. I grow just cattleyas. Nothing else. I found that for me and my greenhouses that they are the showiest, and the easiest to grow. I can't grow phrags, odonts or miltonias because it requires cool humid environment. That means a separate greenhouse. So I avoid them. I don't grow orchids that are mounted because they require constant watering. And in drough stricken Southern CA, that's not responsible. Besides, I don't have the time to water each plant everyday. Which is why for me, I grow in New Zealand moss. It doesn't require daily watering and stays moist for longer periods. The larger specimen plants are grown in fir bark and peat mixture. All orchids need a good amount of light to bloom properly. Yes, filtered light, not direct unless they are terete leaved vandas and such, but even so-called low light orchids will do better if given more light. Water quality is another important part of growing orchids. Hard water is bad for all plants. Never use softened water as it contains salt. Some plants like Disas and some phrags grow in very moist and clean water conditions. They won't tolerate stagnant and highly mineraized water. Plus they like cool cool conditons. Some plants like dendrobiums require a cool, dry rest period of dormancy before they bloom in the spring. Again, research the plant you might want to grow and see if you can accomodate it. People never become an "expert" at growing orchids. You learn something new all the time. It does take trial and error. But if you talk to old time orchid growers, they can give you valuable tips.

I agree that not repotting is high up on the list of what to NOT do. Learn all you can about the different media and what your plants like. Although spiced ham has posted the proper time to repot, if the plant's condition is bad, don't wait: immediately investigate the roots. I can't imagine Phals lasting 3 years without a repot and being happy. I have had an orchid collection for about 4 years and repotting is still something I'm learning.

A comment on "most orchids grow better mounted", and the ever so common "Orchid 'X' grows best mounted".

It just is not so. Taking this advice as a newby resulted in many many orchid deaths for me. You need very specific conditions (high humidity and almost daily watering) to get decent growth from mounted orchids. I never got what I consider good growth from mounted orchids trying in windowsills, under lights and in greenhouses in three states, and my potted orchids were bigger and better than the same plants grown mounted by the AOS Judges in my orchid society.

Based on my experience growing orchids, trading and getting mounted orchids from other growers, and observing orchids in the wild there are only three reasons to grow mounted orchids 1) the dang thing won't stay in a pot. 2) you are out of horizontal room 3) you over water so much you rot anything in a pot.

I do have about 80 mounted orchids, some of which have won show ribbons, but none of them are that way for better growth.

Once you learn the basics about water, light, and fertilizer, etc., the next step is to give your plants what they need WHEN they need it. You will gradually let the plant tell you what it needs, just by observing it. You may also want to jot this info down on a monthly calender and/or individual cards for each plant.

So....here is how I have digested all this info:

(BTW, when I went three yrs without repotting, it was because I did not know any better and I have NO IDEA how I got so lucky with such hardy and healthy plants. They were all 7 bucks from Costco!!! All have been repotted since and most have lived on and bloomed.)

Yes - light and root rot seem to be my issues. So, I am tracking the light and moving plants around. Was not ready for harsh autumn sun low in the sky. Watering...am "listening" to my orchids more now.

The Yellow Boy that was in root rot crisis...had a nice little trim of his roots and potted him shallow in clean medium. Happy plant! Blooms are busting out all over now and the one scary, curly leaf is just ready to fall off.

My sad Vanda that was under-watered for so long....drum roll please....has 2 new leaves AND 2 new spikes!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Gee, amazing what some water can do :o)

I love the idea of creating a monthly calendar and index cards for each plant to keep track...that is right up my alley and I think it will be important in assimilating information and making sure each has what it needs.

I do not plan on mounting any of my orchids at this time. I have cats, so mounted orchids are just cats toys waiting to have their roots ripped off! I love having my vanda as a hanging orchid and will likely stik with Phals and Cids from here forward.

Fertilizer and lights (artificial) still have me a bit stumped, but I know there is tons of info available here for me to search.

I love the simple and basic stuff best and am happy to have the tip on peroxide.

I have mostly clay pots but have plastic liners...considering removing the plastic as an aid to prevent root rot. Thanks for that tip.

Water quality: well, I use the same water as the guy down the road who has prize winning orchids, so I am guessing it is OK, but I have learned to heat it in the microwave for a few seconds first and my plants really seem to like that.

I will likely join the Cape Fear Orchid Society, but thanks for the tip on AOS...think I will look in to that too.

I have reviewed the recommended books and added a couple to my christmas list.

Light light light...that is where I am going to direct my focus next.

THANK YOU...ALL of you! :o)