Use photobucket to do it.
Use the TOP link to do it.

Jeri

landperson, you're not using enough iron on your rusty roses. I prefer Ames, with a fiberglass handle, but any other iron SHOVEL will cure your rust! LOL! Kim

Oh my, that does look daunting. I'm afraid my solution would be similar to Kim's. I've really internalized the idea that if a plant is not happy in my garden it doesn't belong there. End of story. It's made me a much happier, more relaxed gardener.

Ingrid

Thanks, Jeri.

As for you, Kim, I'm holding my tongue. I have really really loved this rose; I don't know if I've got the you-know-whats to dig it up and throw it away.....:-(((((( but we will see.

Susan

Ah, Ingrid, your post came after I responded to Jeri and to Kim but you said the magic word: "relaxed". Just maybe I can stop fretting about this rose and simply but a better one in it's place???? What a concept.

Now I just have to get busy and do research on roses which are less susceptible to rust. If it's not one thing it's at least a dozen others.

Susan

A number of years ago, Jeri and her great husband gave a tremendous talk at a Huntington Symposium about curing rose diseases. They stood there, in front of easily 200 paying attendees and Jeri stated, "I have the CURE for disease in your roses!" All ears were on her. Her husband held up a short handled shovel and brought down the house! But, it IS true. If the danged thing won't cooperate with you, send it packing! In today's modern catch-phrase lingo, it's called "Sustainability". The Curator of the Peggy Rockefeller rose garden stated yesterday that Peace was a blackspot problem for them. By law, they can't spray so they replaced it with Mother Of Pearl which has no blackspot issues there. The rating for cleanliness of the garden went from 23% to about 86% due to two factors. Properly preparing the soil and creating a beneficial LIVING soil with fungi, bacteria and organics, AND replacing all the sickly plants in their climate with CLEAN, HEALTHY ones.

Okay, okay, okay, I got it. The rose goes.
So, how do I do the research to figure out what will NOT be a rust magnet? I do now remember that I had to shovel prune Climbing Dainty Bess several years ago, because of her affinity for rust, so I lied when I said that I hadn't had to do this before. But....where do I start finding stainless steel roses (when I still use carbon steel knives....)

Susan

Go to Rogue Valley Roses and do a search for disease resistant roses. Then check for roses that do well in your zone. There are plenty of healthy ones you can grow. Also ask on this forum; people love to help.

That's EASY! Go to HMF. If you're a premium member go to advanced search. Click on "Growing" on the left column, scroll down to disease issues, and click on rust resistant and extremely rust resistant. This is what popped up. Don't take this is exhaustive as it only reports those roses which someone reported as rust resistant. And, that report is only really valid WHERE the report came from. Perhaps it is too hot, dry, cold or wet where the report originated for the spores to germinate. YMWV. Kim

Here is a link that might be useful: rust resistant rose list on HMF

Ah, yes, I am definitely a Premium Member at HMF, and will trot right over there and check out that list. Thanks.

Also I uploaded two pictures of my rust-laden Everest Double Fragrance to HMF, which may make for less heartache for someone else in the future????

I'm back with more questions about rust. I've gotten it that I need to take this rose out. But I know that a lot of the orange and a lot of the black spores have dropped into the soil where the rose has been for 10+ years. Is there anything I can or should do to that area before I plant another rose there?

One thing to be aware of is that many roses will get rust occasionally, especially on the west coast. You can have a healthy rose garden by avoiding those roses which are especially susceptible to it. This goes for other rose diseases, blackspot, powdery mildew, anthracnose, downy mildew, and the like. There is no rose that is immune to all disease.

Having said that, I have heard that this particular rose gets rust quite a bit.

Rosefolly

Rosefolly makes a good point.

I take it that this rose is several years old.
If it's never done this before, you might give it a year, to see what it will do.

But in that case, since it is large, yes? I think I might really dormant spray the daylights out of it.

If you go ahead and dormant spray it, that foliage will likely fall off, saving you a ton of work. The wind might help, if you do it soon.
I might even spray it twice, a week or so apart.

Jeri
Coastal Ventura Co., SoCal

Rosefolly and Jeri, thank you both. I have taken every leaf off and pruned it back very severely. The jury is still out on whether I will shovel prune it or not, but tomorrow I will spray it heavy and hard while I try to decide whether or not to give it another year.

I think this probably isn't it's first/only episode of rust, but it is definitely the most severe and I am also much more attuned to the roses this year than I had been for a while. It may have been an incipient problem that I was not understanding or it may be a one-time thing.

Is copper appropriate for this? or just dormant oil?

The purpose of dormant oil is to smother insects overwintering in your plants. I have never used it, though I would if the right kind of problem showed up. It is not useful for rust.

Copper-based fungicides kill many fungal and bacterial diseases. Microcop is an easily available form. I like old-fashioned Bordeaux mixture even better, because winter rains don't disturb it. However, the ready-mix form is very difficult to find, and it is a bit of work to mix it up for yourself. I will include a link to some instructions in case you want to try it. On my more ambitious years, I do so myself.

BTW, you don't want to use fungicides labeled "copper soap" for this purpose. They are meant for certain growing season applications, not for dormant spraying.

Rosefolly

Here is a link that might be useful: Making Bordeaux for dormant spraying

Susan, spray or don't, but before you do, clean up the fallen leaves and MULCH well to bury the spores so they will die and deteriorate. Might as well turn the buggers into fertilizer, right? Once you've cleaned the area and mulched, you can spray (or not) to your heart's content and be done with it until you need to begin dead heading. Once sprayed, I don't want to re enter the area for as long as possible, no matter how short the official re entry period. I find myself reacting to more and more of these things as time passes. Kim

If the only disease I see on roses is powdery mildew, I just let the leaves lie on the ground as a mulch, returning the nutrients to the soil. PM requires living tissue and dies once off the plant. Unfortunately rust and blackspot persist can persist on dead material. I usually remove this material for hot composting. Municipal waste composting gets much hotter than home composting and kills them. I'm not sure how much good it does to remove the diseased material because you never get it all, but it makes me feel better. Kim's suggestion to spread fresh mulch is a good one. Since I'm spraying anyway, I make sure I spray the ground, killing any bad stuff there as well as on the plant.

Rosefolly

I had a rust magnet but by doing a few things, I managed to keep it healthy.
Get rid of all the old leaves and old soil off the top.
Wash the plant down with a dormant spray or spray with a spray for rust.
Consider moving your favorite rose to a sunnier or more ventilated spot.
Consider thinning the canes so the plant is more open and let the canes be taller and up in the air.
If you can do it, wash it off a few times a week when the sun is on the plant and it will dry off quickly.
Replace the mulch layer partway through the season.
Feed to encourage new growth.
Don't let the roots dry out or do things that put the plant under stress like feeding junk food fertilizers.
Make and use alfalfa tea and apply good garden compost.
If your rose still gets sick after trying this, then consider removal.

I do remember potting up a rose that always got sick in my yard. A neighbor took it and planted it four houses away. That rose was in perfect health in her yard. I got another and planted it in a different spot. Never had any problem. If you think your rose might have RMV, that could cause it to get sick more as well. I replaced some of my old Big Box store bagged roses with own roots and it's a different story entirely.

The Lazy Gardener wants to add her two bits to this discussion.
A lot of people find 'Zephirine Drouhin' quite disease prone, while mine in my dry summer climate and in full sun has never had problems. Rust isn't a problem in my garden--it doesn't happen. One year however we got five weeks of rain in May-June, a period when normally the garden is going dry for the summer, and Zephirine rusted like mad. I did nothing. The foliage grew back and Zephirine has been fine ever since.
The moral is that exceptional conditions can create exceptional disease on a normally healthy plant. I don't know if this is the case with your 'Everest Double Fragrance', but suggest the possibility for your consideration.
Melissa

Well Good Morning to all of you who have added your helpful information to me while I slept. I looked out the window this morning at my now very sparse EDF and then came in here and read all of your input and I think I have decided that I will treat her to/with/for another year in place. Today I will gather every possible leaf that I might have missed, put another several inches of soil on top of that and then use Liqui-Cop to drench the canes and the soil. In the spring and summer I will pay attention to every leaf and see if I can keep the disease at bay. If she resists my attempts at renovation, I will dig her out of her current place, put her in a big pot, and see if that helps. I'm really not into giving up on her yet, although I was very tempted at some point in yesterday's conversations. Gee, I may have painted that shed behind her blue just to set off her lovely color....?

For the record, the place she is in is not optimal. She's on the south side of a shed with an overhanging roof. She does get drip irrigation, but there are yellow flag iris crowding her roots (I try to keep them out, but they are pushy), and this year I made a tactical error by crowding rather a lot of potted plants around her base. Oh yeah, and the chickens do love to take dust baths in her shade. Poor girl.

Thanks to everyone for taking the time to share your experiences with me. I've had roses for too long to be so ignorant of what I am really doing with and to them.

I prune infected roses to the ground. The rust overwinters on the canes. I never use chemicals, and such severe pruning has worked for me in all cases. The roses always bounce back.

You, however, may plant your roses with the bud union above grade. Needless to say, you can't prune below it.

Steve