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Summer Pruning

18 years ago

I noticed a posting on this forum where someone was endorsing managing fruit trees with almost exclusive summer pruning. I feel the info he posted was not at all complete and might mislead beginning fruit growers.

If it was desirable to prune established fruit trees only in the summer because it reduced vegetative growth and had no other consequences I assure you that commercial growers would have caught on to this a few centuries ago, but the story is a little more complicated.

This person suggested that all growth that is removed during pruning only provides carbohydrate for itself. This is not true and some growth that should be removed in winter feeds the fruit during the growing season.

There is a kind of balancing act going on where excessively vigorous shoots will take sugar from the fruit because of shading but less vigorous shoots feed the fruit as well as themselves.

Traditionally, the only situation where trees are managed almost exclusively with summer pruning is with espaliers. This is usually done once in mid-summer and all but the very least vigorous shoots are removed. This probably doesnÂt excessively reduce the brix content of the fruit because they are grown in a way that the light exposure is very intense and brix is off the charts anyway.

Comments (2)

  • 18 years ago

    According to my research and practical application, summer pruning is mainly done during the first two to three years of a trees lifecycle. This major pruning is during the time the trees usually are not of fruit bearing age anyway.

    By summer pruning, you are able establish a tree height that is manageable and to your liking. I currently have 26 trees planted four-to-a-hole that I am using this technique on. The first two years, summer pruning takes new growth back by 1/2. Depending on growth, I do this end of May and again in August. The winter pruning adjusts any additional vertical growth that occured since the last summer pruning plus allows corrective pruning to shape the tree to a open vase shape and remove any damaged limbs.

    I just completed my winter pruning this week and sprayed dormant spray. I will do no more pruining until summer when the trees may need vertical adjustment on their growth.

    Comparing home gardening techniques to commercial farmers methods is not quite the same. Farmers depend on the largest, most productive trees to come into harvest as soon as possible with maximum amounts of fruit. As a home grower, my concern is size management of my trees and quantities of fruit that would not be commercially feasable.

    Anyone interested in this method of tree size control can find more information at the Dave Wilson website under their Backyard Orchard section.

    Elaine

    Here is a link that might be useful: summer pruning

  • 18 years ago

    Please note that on my post I was discussing established fruit trees. The former post I was referring to made no mention of his summer pruning regimen being restricted to establishing trees but I think that may have been an unintended ommission.

    I read about the four tree plan a few years back in a Fowler catalogue. As a nurseryman I thought it was kindof a genius marketing plan at the time altough the theory is sound. It does require a whole lot of extra structural wood however.

    It would be much more efficient to use one tree and graft on several varieties but I wouldn't expect a nursery to suggest that, especially one linked to Zeiger who are probably the most market savey operators engaged in the nursery business. Anywhere. Ever.