Sue,

Don't know if this helps but my DH is a civil engineer. Do you know anyone in your area who is in civil engineering? It depends a bit on what your base is like (clay, sandy, loam, black dirt, etc.) as to how you would prep to do this. Also, what kind of drainage you would need so that a) all your hard work doesn't sink or float away and b) it doesn't flood the rest of your lot in a heavy rainstorm. Anyone on the forum who is in engineering that could help?

THanks for responding. We have a clay base. There is one downspout coming off of our garage roof that empties into the lawn, where I want to put the gravel.

Sue

Sue, direct the downspout away so it doesn't flood out your parking area. DON'T use plastic, it will only keep the water from perculating(sp?) through to the soil below.
The thicker the gravel the better off you'll be and if you can compact it every few inches it will only benifit you in the long run.
Good luck

Gravel does have a way of moving. I have three hundred feet of it as my driveway. My snowplow guy has managed to make the driveway extra wide with a mound at the top. I also have spring fed flood grooves down part of it.
You might look into some kind of retainer? Sort of like that thick black plastic they use as border edging. If it is to be on grass, you might think of something to prevent the grass from growing up through it.
Best o' luck..

Thanks everyone! Let you know how it goes...

Sue

If you can, clear away the top two inches from any bare soil, and the turf, if you're going into a grass area. This removes the bulk of the seeds that are waiting in the humus seedbank. Some of them can survive for more than 30 years, especially the pioneer species for your area. Clover is a particular problem although it can be useful for binding shifting gravel. You'll save yourself gallons of herbicide or hours of weeding.

Then consider any drainage needs and regrading of the area to deal with run-off. The other thing to consider is impact from repeated movement of vehicles over something hard, such as a curb, onto the softer area. You may need to put in a stone or concrete 'bump pad' to prevent the formation of ponds/puddles.

Once that's out the way, bring in a load of base course - sharp chips, small grit, some sand with a maximum size around one inch. Spread it evenly and compact it using a garden roller, if you have one, or a compactor from the hire centre.

Then lay the gravel of your choice. Small (about 7mm) and sharp is better than large and round because it doesn't drift so much with the tyre/tire movements. Be sure that it is at least two inches thick to reduce colonising by weeds brought home on the vehicles or blown in.

If you do end up with potholes you can use a 'poor man's concrete' mix rammed into the bottom of the hole. Base course mixed with cement powder about six to one and lightly damped once you've rammed it in place. Then swish some gravel back over the top.

Remember to rake over the gravel once a month or so to cover the thin patches caused by traffic.