The Dolmar 5100 is a great saw. I do not know the Jonsered line.

Both are excellent quality, go with the one that has the best dealer support.A top handle saw is not IMHO the best choice for what you say you want to do.

I missed the "T" part of the Jonsered saw. Canguy is right about the top handle. I definitely would not want to use a top-handle for cleaning up and bucking wood. Top-handles are really only useful for arborist type work, of climbing and pruning. Way to taxing to do extended cutting with. I did it once because my clean up saw was down. After about 10 minutes of cutting my wrists were tired whereas with my other saws I can cut for an hour or two before taking a break.

I had considered a 5100 but read about some serious problems with the unit. One dealer stated that he had somewhere around 50 come back out of 300. There were problems from being set too lean and problems with the intake. Dolmar tech support said one thing and then came up with something else as it pertained to a steel re-enforcement ring in the 5100 intake. What I get out of it was when the engine flexes under heavy use, the edge of the intake boot can pull away from the cylinder enough to draw air. There were also reported problems with the coating coming off the inside of the crankcase and something about the fact that the carb is encased inside the intake which affects how the fuel diaphragm can be vented to outside barometric pressure for fuel flow. It seems that this series has trouble with long bars and long cuts.

I POSTED THE ABOVE MESSAGE CAN ANY OF YOU WOOD CUTTERS SUGGEST A SAW FOR ME THEN , I HAVE A STHIL ANS HUSKY DEALER NEAR BY ALSO A JONSERD DEALERS

In Stihl, I would look at a 260 (50cc), or a 361 if something that can handle a 20" bar would work better for you.

In Husky I only have read about the 346xp in the (50cc range), not sure what they have in the 60cc range.

I had only heard good things about the 5100 also. There was a recent 5100 problem thread on Arboristsite. I think the issue runs its course in the first 5 pages or so, the rest seems to be mostly banter.

I'm not sure about the status of the problem. Is it really a problem or not, there seems to be only a few reporting a problem with a large number of the saws. This does not track with what you would expect, an across the board complaint from many. Dolmar does not seem to give good warranty support to the dealers, that seemed to pop up frequently. Frankly, I'm not sure what to make of the problem with the 5100.

Given the above I would go with a Stihl or Husky, but I'd go with the dealer that would be there to support you the best. Either of the 260 or 346xp would be a great saw. Expect to pay ~$500.

I just don't know the Jonsered line.

Lots of new saws are set to lean from the factory now days thanks to the EPA, not only Dolmar. A good dealer would set them right but might be afraid of getting fined if checked by the EPA police so many go out the door set to lean and burn up soon as they get in a long hard cut or put ethomal gas in them. Back to the question, I'd lean towards the Stihl MS260 for what your using it for. It's one of the lighter 50cc saws made and should last a long time. A 346xp Husky is a little more wieght and power, but for cutting small stuff I'd go with the lighter Stihl. Steve

The Husky NE346xp is the best 50cc saw on the market. It has better AV, air filtration, plus it's much more powerful than the 260. The 260 is a good durable saw, but very outdated.

For that size of saw, get a Makita electric hands down, and some good 10 or 12 gauge extension cords or generator. There's only two brands of gas saws used by pros- Husky and Stihl.

Don't be lumping all Stihl and Husky saws in one group. There is miles of difference between thier Pro and home owner saws with the cheapest Huskys being the same as Poulans and the smaller Stihls being built real cheap but at least they run good. Steve

I would say that the majority of pros use Stihl and Husky but not all. There are some that use Echo (not many). There are some that run Jonsered, Dolmar, Shindaiwa and even some will run old classic models.

I can't see how an electric chainsaw will help someone that has to roam a large plot of land. Who wants to drag a cord around all that? Electrics are fine for HO's on small plots but that's about it.

A 50cc saw if you are doing small trees like that (maybe consider a 40cc). If you want to do a decent amount of firewood than consider bumping up to a 60cc saw.

I agree, most pros use pro Husky or Stihl saws with the brands listed above being well built saws also and most perform real good with a simple muffle mod and good tuning. But as I mentioned home owner Husky and Stilh saws are built cheap but at least they run good which can't be said for new Poulan, Homelite or Mac saws. Steve

Homeowner saws are all junk and not worth owning. That's why I suggest getting a Makita electric (from Amazon), which is one heck of a tool for the buck. Obviously, being tied to an extension cord has it's limits. Dragging 200' of cord is easier than messing with ear plugs, premix, and starting and maintaining a gas saw. I've got a Stihl 032, but use the Makita any time I can.

Alot HO saws are junk but there are some out there that are pretty decent for HO use. I had a Stihl MS170 for about a year that I liked alot. Very light, enough power for light yardwork. The 180 is supposed to be even nicer in terms of power. They won't do for firewood cutting, but if you only have light pruning and an occasional under 28" log and the time, they are decent.

Electric is great for most HO's that will use the saw 2 or 3 times/year, but if he has a tree farm and fence line, gas is the only way. If cost is an issue, I'd look for a used pro saw or a new mid-range saw.

It's hard to believe, but the Makita electric cuts as good or better than comparable size weight gas saws, and is definitely "pro" quality. Suggest checking out customer reviews on Amazon.

They do cut comparable to a 40cc saw. I don't doubt they cut well for smaller jobs. I've recommended electrics to plenty of folks that have seen me cutting and think they might want one to help maintain their <.5 acre plots. if you are going to work in an area with easy access power outlets and not alot of obstacles moving a cord about then electric could be just the ticket. but almost all that will use chainsaw monthly want take it where running more hassle than gas engine.>Electrics can be more dangerous than their gas brethren. Most electrics do not have chain brakes or clutches. If you read warning labels on chaps, they specifically mention that they are not rated for electrics. Not because electric is so much more powerful it is because how chaps work that is not as effective with electrics as with gas saws.

In addition to the Amazon reviews, read some reviews in Trade magazines and chainsaw enthusiast websites.
Electric chainsaw 2

The recommendation is not based on the cutting ability of the saw for the OP's question but on portability. Add in the potential for firewood usage assuming 16" plus rounds and you can't even consider an electric.

I NEED A GAS CHAIN SAW 220 ACRE FARM I HAVE A HUSKY 340
BUT MY DEALER TAKES FOR EVER TO FIX IT WHEN IT NEEDS WORK HAVE BEEN TAKING IT TO REPAIR SHOP THAT SELLS JONSERED
AND HE HAS BEEN REAL RELIABLE CAN ANY ONE RECOMEND A JONSERED ABOUT THE SAME SIZE AS THE 340 HUSKY OR ARE THEY NOT A GOOD SAW

Jonsereds are made by the same parent company that makes Husky. I have heard they are good saws, same as Husky but different nameplate. But I haven't owned one myself.

Stay away from Poulans, Homelite, Craftsman, or any cheap Husky sold in a big-box store like home depot.

You might do well with a Stihl 260 or Husky 346. I think they're in the same size range as the 340 Husky but more of a professional quality saw.