Jamie, need a bit more info. Do you turn the key and nothing happens? Does it click? Does it turn over but not start? Let us know exactly what happens when you turn the key.

I turn the key and there is no turn-over, nothing. There is voltage to the starter, but no turn-over. I make sure that the throttle is up a little so that the sensor is not turned off and fuel pump is closed.

I was out out mowing our back lot here and then I brought it in to shut it down. I let it run for a little while to cool down and then shut it off. I then shut it off and it has not started since. I then brought the starter in adn had that checked. it tunred over fine. I am thinking that it is the relay switch. I am just hopeing that someone has had situations like that happen to them and they now what is going on.

Their Motto is-"Nothing Runs Like A Deere"

jamie,

gorper99's comment is exactly why this forum isn't the place to post this question. For his info, this is a 19 to 27 year old tractor. Compared to some marques, it is amazing it runs at all. jamie, I suggest you post this question at www.tractorbynet and/or machineunderground.com

Cheers

JDFANATIC

Unplug the "control wire" (see photo) at the starter. Using a DC volt meter or a 12 VDC test light perform the following checks. A helper is usually needed. First off, check the battery voltage with the meter and write down the reading (for referrence in following steps). With the control wire unplugged, connect the volt meter positive probe (or test light probe) to the end of the wire and the other probe (or alligator clip) to a good, clean, unpainted ground (starter mounting bolt is good). Now have your helper turn the ignition switch to the "cranking position". Your volt meter should respond and the reading should be the same (or within a few tenths of a volt) as the referrence battery voltage you got checking the battery. If you DO NOT get battery voltage (or a "lit" test light) you have an "open" in the control wire circuit. I don't KNOW how your JD 750 is configured (in regard to safety switches or "starter inhibitor switches") but you should be familiar with how YOUR tractor has to be started. By this I mean: Are you required to push down and hold the clutch to get the starter to engage (normally)? Are you required that the transmission be positioned in neutral before the starter will engage? If you can answer YES to either (or both) of those questions.....you will now have to locate and test the "Clutch pedal position switch" and/or the Neutral start switch" to determine if one of them has become defective. Because most electrical things like switches have plug-in connectors, corrosion in a connector body can cause an "open circuit" as well. Do some checking along these lines of thought and post back.{{gwi:313705}}

Hi Jamie. Since nothing is happening, try the following. Disconnect, clean, and re-connect the battery terminals. When you have the battery ground diconnected, check the ground strap where it connects to the frame, disconnect it, clean, and re-connect. Make sure starter wires are clean and well connected. You may show voltage on your meter even if you have a bad connection that is not good enough to push the amperage you need.

If still nothing, make sure the battery isn't the problem by trying to jump the tractor. If still nothing, you may be right about a starter solenoid being bad. I'm not sure how this tractor's starter is set up, if it has a separate starter solenoid you may have to replace it. Last item, make sure all wires are connected to the ignition switch, and a bad switch can cause your problem as well. Hope this helps.

While I was typing Mownie put up his post. Follow his suggestions (excellent, detailed advice as ususal, Mownie). I should have mentioned safety switches first, might be the problem though I wouldn't think you would see voltage to the starter if a switch was the problem (depending on how you are testing for voltage). Good luck.

dave01, Notice that I specified "If you DO NOT get battery voltage, or a lit test light" as the indication of an "upstream" open circuit. Not trying to be "cute" here, I just though you might have missed that "qualfying" detail.

Jamie,
Monsanto should be supporting the ag. industry (they are a part of it) by getting you a new JD sub-cut. A 20 yr old tractor, I hope your pay is better than the equipment they use.
Monsanto stock has steadily increased in value the past year, ask your boss if they get a bonus for having you to operate antique's? If so have Monsanto take the 750 into the local JD dealer to repair the start problem and have the safety features brought up the the current standards, if Monsanto needs justification for this upgrade a call to OSHA will do wonders.

I have the same problem. Battery good. No start. Just had a $300 bill to fix switch a year ago and to boot...it would not turn off or choke down to stop engine at the end of last summer's cutting. This spring, cant get a dealer to pick it up to service. I don't know anything about solenoid switches but willing to take this piece of junk apart and learn. My blonde question to anybody is... if I take cables off battery terminals, is it safe to get into without a shock?

I have a 750 with similar problems. There are 3 safety switches and a solenoid within the starter. The safety switches are in the seat, the shifter and pto. It’s helpful to have a manual to show you where they are. Any of these can fail and can be easily tested. But even if they test normal, you may still get a funny reading at the control wire at the starter. Try bypassing the safety switches to test the starter and solenoid. Run a long wire from the positive battery terminal to the control spade on the starter but put a momentary switch in the wire so you can control it from the seat. Keep your hands away from moving parts. If this works, you have an issue with the control circuit. i can start mine this way. All my safety switches are working so I either have a bad connection or a ignition switch problem. I just can’t figure it out. Yet.

I have the same problem with my john deere 750 tractor. The lights on the glow plug and dash light up normally. When yo turn the key to statrt nothing clicks or turns over. I took the starter and solenoid in to check. The brushes and switches in the starter were replaced-the starter is like new. I next replaced the ignition switch to no benefit. The battery is fine. I think it is one of the safety switches : pto neutral switch located on pto/differential , unsure where the others are. Where are the other switches- there isn't one on the seat. How do i test these switches or bypass each switch individually to see which switch it is. Could be the rectifed voltage regulator causing the problem, Please any help is greatly appreciated. John

I still have my hillbilly set up above. I was never able to figure out which item is causing the problem. All the safety switches seem to test ok. Tried a new ignition switch. No luck. i am detecting 12 volts on the starter solenoid on switch when I turn the key. My guess is that even though it shows 12 volts, there isn’t enough current to engage the solenoid. So for the moment, I still have a Hotwire to the battery with a momentary switch to the ignition wire input on the starter. I guess this is a common problem that no one seems to have a good answer for. Probably some corrosion of a wire in the safety circuit.

Having the same problem with jd 750 Battery is 12.7 volts new battery cables new ignition switch. PTO switch and Neural switches have continuity.

Double check the connections on the battery terminals. Make sure they are tight and don’t move when you twist them. Maybe even replace the bolts on the terminals as they get worn down so they are hard to tighten. Check the voltage on the solenoid wire and see if there is any voltage drop from the battery terminals. Also consider a new ignition switch. They aren’t too hard to change out. There is a little panel where you can gain access. If you test all 3 safety switched, I bet they test ok. It’s got to be either a bad ground or a voltage drop somewhere.

3 year delayed response to Jane. If you take off the battery cables, you won’t get shocked. The small hot wire to the starter solenoid is on a spade and should come off pretty easy. This is energized with 12 volts when you start it. It’s a momentary switch on the key. Regarding stopping, turn off key and pull accelerator handle all the way back. It may stick at the end and may need a second tug. Or you can raise the foot pedal accelerator with your hand.