Sounds like my Sears! I have a 1972 SearâÂÂs model attached that has been fairly easy to maintain and diagnose problems. My cause of no power has occurred twice:

1. Bad contacts in the motor (from years of dust and paint) that was easily cleaned with the motor disassembled.

2. Bad auto pressure switch that you should be able to switch on manually or bypass. If it is determined to be bad, you can find a generic at a reasonable cost.

I get back and share manual info if needed.

âÂÂIâÂÂllâ get ahead on a possibility as the starter capacitorâÂÂs dirty contacts. ItâÂÂs always after I see the dirty contacts that I remember I d/n hear the distinct âÂÂClickâ (at the start when they kick in to boost the start). Attached is not a good pic but you can see itâÂÂs easy to pull the end to clean the contact points. You might be able to see them w/o pulling the end. I have blown some clean knowing my disc sander will collect dust on the contacts and cause it not to start.

IâÂÂll get back again!

Although I have used this compressor for decades, my dad was the original owner and did the maintenance until the last decade after he was gone. I haven't done any maintenance since then, so cleaning the contacts will be my first job. It hasn't been used as a paint sprayer in decades. Normally, I use it to pump up car tires and so it doesn't stay plugged in. I had noticed last autumn that if I didn't use it for more than a month the air would slowly leak out somehow and I'd have to plug it in to get the pressure back up to 100psi.
Having other problems with my car and since I have to drive to town to use the internet at the library, prompt responses are difficult.
I appreciate your help and I'll clean the contacts and see if that does the trick. Thank you.

Since the compressor has not been maintained lately, IâÂÂll suggest you check or change the following.

1. Change the compressor crankcase oil with 30wt HD oil (âÂÂunless I find my manual and it requires different oilâÂÂ).

2. Check and replace the compressorâÂÂs air filter if itâÂÂs too bad to blow clean. I have extras that I feel I purchased from Sears in the 70s. They w/n easy to clean when we painted cars (üâ thick felt).

3. Open the tankâÂÂs bottom drain port with low pressure in the tank to help blow out any oil and water. I would suggest check the tank after any extended use (airing a tire s/n cause moisture IMO). ItâÂÂs common for a bad tankâÂÂs bottom if the draining is not maintained.

I hope the compressor powered up after you found the need. Otherwise let me know where you are on the need.

loger_gw... I have a sears paint sprayer similar to the one listed above.. model 106.153540. My question is would you have the original manual or know where I would be able to obtain a copy of such a thing. I am wanting to restore the one I have and need something that goes over the maintenance and assembly. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

There might be a limit per Etc on attachments since my attachments d/n post and the options were different. I’ll try 1 of 4 as a test and insert is not active vs cancel. I'll search the attachment limits. I hope my info will help w/o the attachments. Do you have a neighbor that has electrical skills? I feel your problem is small if the tank is good. 40 yrs has been a Blink!!!<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />