I don't think I would use a ZTR for grading...Maaaaaybe IF it is a TANK model but forget it otherwise...

Why do you say that, can you elaborate? Thanks.

the grader will put alot of stress on the tractor, more than say a plug type aerator because you are dragging some dirt with you.

Looking at the DR website, they demonstrate it behind a tractor thats a step up from even the top end domestic tractor

The question you should be asking here is is the ZTR man enough for the strain without blowing your rear axle and transmission.

I doubt it would hurt the transaxle at all but you will spin your tires a bunch, especially with the stock turf tires and a 20 degree slope.

Are you sure it's 20 degrees? That's pretty darn steep for a driveway.

ZTR TRACTOR?

{{gwi:316726}}

Wow! That's pricey!

The 20 degree slope is a visual estimate, it could be 12-15 degrees but not less. What better alternatives? I might be able to borrow a larger tractor to do the initial driveway and lawn jobs then use my Cub Cadet 22HP ZTR for maintenance. Thoughts on that?

I would try to rent something to fix the driveway and leave the ZTR to what it was designed to do, which is mow.

Pull the Grader with you car or truck!!

Fred

According to the website, this implement can be towed with a LAWN TRACTOR of unspecified weight and horsepower. Instead of asking your question here, you should be contacting the DR people and asking them whether your make/model is strong enough to pull their implement.

In my opinion, your Zed will either pull it or it will just spin its wheels trying to pull it. This unit is fully adjustable so you can set how aggressive the teeth are on any given pass. If you start by making passes down your drive in a very unaggressive mode, only the high spots should come in contact with the teeth. As those are cut down, the teeth will come in contact with a larger area on subsequent passes.

I don't see any real reason as to why your Zed won't tow this rake providing you don't ask too much of your tractor on the first few passes by setting it so the teeth really dig in. Keep in mind that your CC Zed is a residential quality mowing device, not a heavy duty commercial unit that would cost more than double what you paid. Therefore, use some common sense when towing this rake. If you feel that you are pushing your Zed to the limit of it's capabilities, then either reset the teeth to a less aggressive position or start using some other method to tow the rake.

You have a very long driveway and I fully understand why you need this rake. I would just buy it and then figure out the best way to tow it once it arrives.

willow wisp,

Are you in Garrett Co? If so, I have a garden tractor and can be hired out for the fair price of a six-pack.

I confess, I also am interested in checking out how this thing works, for selfish reasons.

Mike

Mike,

Yep, to my mind that is the interesting part - is it any better than a blade and rake. I saw the video and it looks interesting but hard to say without trying it.

If anyone *does* try this thing please let us all know.

Search this forum for "DR Grader".

Here is a link that might be useful: DR Grader

Machiem - thanks for the link. Very interesting. My driveway is blacktop and very short, but I am always interested in how various tools perform.

cheers

Here's how I grade my driveway---this works also to finish grade areas for planting grass. I have a large piece (4x6) of steel grating. Hitch it up to the tractor with a chain and it does what the DR does. However, many people don't have the ability to get in scrap dealers like we used to so you may have to resort to the DR. Just thought I'd mention this to get people's wheels turning on what works if you don't have a lot of money for this toy.

I bought a DR Power grader and it works fantastic. It really is an amazing piece of equipment and it does what the web site says and more (built very well). It does work on hard, packed down driveway, brings up the dirt in the gravel which then mixes it up again as if the gravel is new. Then just pack it down with your truck or car. You do have to stop and pick out the big rocks it pulls out of the road if you have any. You can not drag a nice smooth road with big rocks. I would not however recommend using it with a lawn or garden tractor unless it is fairly level. The reason is that you will not get enough traction. I have a Kawasaki 300 bayou 4x4 atv that I pull it with and I have some problems dragging up hill (spinning). I then have to raise of the teeth so it is dragging a smaller amount of material. No way dragging a piece of steel grating will work anywhere near this DR grader works. Totally amazing... I would recommend this to anyone that needs to grade a driveway. fyi - I live in the Seattle area.

The DR seems like a reasonable product to me. I have tried using a toothed steel harrow and a weighted section of chain link on my gravel driveway. I dread using them because I don't have enough room to turn around without dragging gravel into areas where I don't want it. The electric lift on the DR gets around that problem. The drags I use are not very effective on potholes either. If the DR power grader can do driveway maintenance more efficiently than a box blade, as some owners claim, then it is certainly reasonably priced.

[QUOTE] "We have washboard, wash-outs, mud holes & need to re-distribute excess gravel."

willow wisp,

As a former maintainer of a large, sloped gravel driveway with tons of run off issues, surface grading will not solve the first three problems you mention. The ONLY solution is to dig the pothole out. Otherwise you will continue to have washout problems at the same spot.

For many years I used a York rake on a variety of tractors including CUTs and kept having to redistribute the gravel over and over, but then I read a post on TBN that described how potholes have to be dug out and how the road needs a slight crown for drainage.

And it worked.

What works best to dig out the potholes, is a boxblade with the scarifiers turned down. Once the potholes have been removed, almost any method of redistributing the gravel will work (rake, boxblade with the scarifiers turned up, DR grader, etc).

Unfortunately--or fortunately--I learned this after many years of a lot of effort . . . and then I paved the driveway.

Cheers

JDFANATIC

Forget the ZRT!!!!!! Best is a Suzuki 400 Eiger 4X4 brand new at about 4500 bucks, not to mention the 1200 bucks for the grader. I bought the grader and my 23 year old Honda 125 Fourtrax just dug itself into another pothole. The good news is the warden...aka wife...let me get the Suzki four wheeler. The grader sat in my shed now for two weeks and this afternoon I finally tried it...AGAIN but, with the new toy. It worked really good. My driveway is 740' and looks super

"We have an 800' gravel driveway about 20 degree slope..."

You think that you have problems...lol

{{gwi:316728}}

Three years in the building "The Farm" and hope to be in it by Summers end.

The drive is nearly 1/4 mile long from bottom to top. And really easy to care.

All I use to keep it smooth is a TE20 farm tractor with a drag made of 5 pieces of 10' long 6" heavy walled gas line that is welded to a 3/4" chain with a 12" space between each pipe.

similar to this..

{{gwi:316730}}

Wash boards on a gravel drive is usually caused by wheel spin. Once the tires of a car or truck spin on gravel if the spot is not smoothed over quickly. The effects will only keep getting deeper and can spread for a long distance.

Words of advice.
Once you get your drive smoothed out. Make it a habit to keep it that way by dragging or grading on a regular schedule just like you do your lawn.